catastrophe led to kubota l2501 tie rod replacement

[herman17]

So greasing the fittings on my 2017 L2501. I count there are 24 with the loader. I'm on #3, the one on the right side, on the tie rod, where the tie rod connects to the wheel. Put the grease gun end on it, and fill it up with grease, a bit oozes out, go to pull off the grease gun end, and the Zerk fitting shears right off. The threads say in the hole while the nipple end comes out and stays in the grease gun end. Didn't apply much force at all, just barely. So I have replacement Zerk fittings, but I have to get the threads out first. So watch several videos on how to remove the threads, go to Advance Auto and get a screw extractor set. It goes in very nicely (I believe it is a 6mm size) and I start to turn slowly, it catches nicely - AND THE EXTRACTOR BREAKS OFF IN THE ALREADY BROKEN THREADS from the Zerk fitting, flush with the tie rod.

Not sure what to do at this point, other than ordering another tie rod and replace the whole tie rod. I've thought about getting a broken drill extractor kit, but I'm afraid I might damage the metal inside and have to replace more.

Anyone have something like this happen and have a better solution or suggestion?

 

[Gator6x4]

So greasing the fittings on my 2017 L2501. I count there are 24 with the loader. I'm on #3, the one on the right side, on the tie rod, where the tie rod connects to the wheel. Put the grease gun end on it, and fill it up with grease, a bit oozes out, go to pull off the grease gun end, and the Zerk fitting shears right off. The threads say in the hole while the nipple end comes out and stays in the grease gun end. Didn't apply much force at all, just barely. So I have replacement Zerk fittings, but I have to get the threads out first. So watch several videos on how to remove the threads, go to Advance Auto and get a screw extractor set. It goes in very nicely (I believe it is a 6mm size) and I start to turn slowly, it catches nicely - AND THE EXTRACTOR BREAKS OFF IN THE ALREADY BROKEN THREADS from the Zerk fitting, flush with the tie rod.

Not sure what to do at this point, other than ordering another tie rod and replace the whole tie rod. I've thought about getting a broken drill extractor kit, but I'm afraid I might damage the metal inside and have to replace more.

Anyone have something like this happen and have a better solution or suggestion?

Talk to a machine shop or welder. The extractor will be hard to drill into. If you have enough of a protruding stud consider having a nut welded to it. I have had success on getting the broken part out by centering the nut on the broken part an then welding through the center of the nut to achieve a secure attachment then use a wrench on the nut to twist broken part out.

If all else fails. Drill a new hole and insert a totally new zerk in the existing tie rod end.

 

[ericm979]

The usual hardware store screw extractors are hard and easy to break.

Before you go too far, get on Messicks and look up the price of a new tie rod end. It may be so cheap that there's no point in doing anything that costs money.

I have had success removing broken extractors by cutting a slot in them with a tiny cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool and using a screwdriver. But you need to have enough extractor sticking out that you can get to it. The welding a nut technique is a bit more versatile but requires a welder and a weldor with the ability to weld to the extractor and not the tie rod end.

A Lock-n-lube or similar style grease gun coupler puts a lot less force on the zerk than the usual adjustable couplers that are often adjusted so tight that you can barely pull them off the zerk.

 

[herman17]

Talk to a machine shop or welder. The extractor will be hard to drill into. If you have enough of a protruding stud consider having a nut welded to it. I have had success on getting the broken part out by centering the nut on the broken part an then welding through the center of the nut to achieve a secure attachment then use a wrench on the nut to twist broken part out.

If all else fails. Drill a new hole and insert a totally new zerk in the existing tie rod end.

Good ideas, my brother suggested putting in a new zerk. It is not super easy to get to, so I might pull the whole tie rod and see if that makes it easier to do anything with.

 

[herman17]

The usual hardware store screw extractors are hard and easy to break.

Before you go too far, get on Messicks and look up the price of a new tie rod end. It may be so cheap that there's no point in doing anything that costs money.

I have had success removing broken extractors by cutting a slot in them with a tiny cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool and using a screwdriver. But you need to have enough extractor sticking out that you can get to it. The welding a nut technique is a bit more versatile but requires a welder and a weldor with the ability to weld to the extractor and not the tie rod end.

A Lock-n-lube or similar style grease gun coupler puts a lot less force on the zerk than the usual adjustable couplers that are often adjusted so tight that you can barely pull them off the zerk.

Yes, just bought a lock-n-lube coupler, a bit too late. Good suggestion.

A aftermarket tie rod is only about 60 dollars, I'm assuming aftermarket, can't find an OEM. I can't find it on Messick's, so might have to call them.

 

[Gator6x4]

Good ideas, my brother suggested putting in a new zerk. It is not super easy to get to, so I might pull the whole tie rod and see if that makes it easier to do anything with.

If you decide to remove count the number of thread rings exposed on each end if there are any to assist in getting everything back as was.

 

[5030]

Moto of the story, don't buy cheap extractors.

 

[herman17]

Moto of the story, don't buy cheap extractors.

Also good advice - I've found that more expensive doesn't always mean better quality. Any recommendations for good quality extractors? I don't mind spending for the future.

 

[5030]

Also good advice - I've found that more expensive doesn't always mean better quality. Any recommendations for good quality extractors? I don't mind spending for the future.

I use spline drive extractors myself. Not cheap but don't shatter either. The cheaper Chineseium ones are hardly ever heat treated properly. Seems as though the Orientials haven't perfected good heat treatment yet.