CC 2082 PTO Disengage Light

[Mike1969]

Gang:

I apologize if this has been discussed before, but I didn't see this exact scenario in previous posts...

I have a Cub Cadet 2082 Tractor that won't turn over.

Last summer I replaced the PTO switch (w/a factory switch) when the clutch stopped staying engaged.

This weekend, I tried to start the mower up to mow one last time, got nothing, and the "Disengage PTO" light came on. With the ignition switch in the "run" position, I could toggle PTO clutch and hear the clutch snap in and out. I disconnect the wire at the PTO clutch and no difference, still get the PTO idiot light, without a sound from the starter motor or relay when I try and start it.

Also, every so often, after repeatedly turning the ignition key through the various positions, everything will go dark (no dash lights), like the battery was dead. I check the battery with a VOM and every thing checks out. I even tried to jump it, with no results. I checked for solid ground, jumped the negative terminal to the engine block and checked the inline fuse to the starter relay (it was fine) and got nothing. I pulled and doused every terminal plug with spray can contact cleaner, and made sure connections were snug.

Every once in a while I'll get the dash lights back, along with the "Disengage PTO" light when I try to start it, but the starter motor is silent (no clicking from the relay either).

The PTO relay was my initial guess, but after losing the dash lights every so often, I am starting to suspect the ignition switch, or at least a bad ground/broken wire some where.

What am I missing?

 

[windcatcher]

Mike,

I don't know your particular vintage of cub cadet - 2082, but I've rebuilt a CC 1200 and have run into some interesting issues myself. On the brake pedal, there is a switch that gives owners fits with strange characteristics (that's the best term I can think of right now).

It is a known problem for these tractors. The switch can become defective and cause weird stuff to show up elsewhere on the tractor. It can also become partially dislodged and make it think it is active when it isn't.

That's about all I can think of right now. There are several Cub Cadet websites that have the Cub Cadet purists on them. You may want to search for them and post your questions there too.

Good luck in your search.

 

[Mike1969]

Thanks so much for the insight. I'll check it out tomorrow. I have replaced every thing behind the dash, ignition switch, pto relay, now even a second pto switch, and still dumbfounded, no change.

 

[windcatcher]

Thanks so much for the insight. I'll check it out tomorrow. I have replaced every thing behind the dash, ignition switch, pto relay, now even a second pto switch, and still dumbfounded, no change.

On the brake switch, once you find it, you can use a paper clip to jumper the wires. If everything still works the same way as you have it, then it isn't the switch, and you don't need to purchase a new switch.

I did some thinking over the weekend, and I remembered that Cub Cadets are notorious for losing their grounds. Trace all your grounds out and dismount them one at a time. Of course, remove the negative battery cable before doing this. Polish up the grounds and the corresponding frame ground(s). You could also put some dielectric grease on them to help preserve the contact surface.

Try that out and see if that helps. With the age of your tractor, I'm almost betting this could be one of your underlying problems. I had a similar problem on my Farmall Cub. The darn thing nearly drove me batty until I found the bad ground. Paint may look good, but it provides a terrible ground. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[Gator6x4]

On most Cubs of the 2082 vintage the clutch or brake switch is in the tunnel between your legs when you set down. Have you tried jumping the relay at the starter with the switch in the run position to see if the unit will start? Have you hooked a volt meter to the small wire on the starter solenoid and measured the voltage when you turn the switch to start? Can you fabricated a wire of sufficient length with a clip on both ends long enough to reach from the positive post on the battery to the solenoid on the starter. Attach one end of the wire to the positive post on the battery. Turn the switch to the run position remove the small clip or plug on wire from the starter solenoid and then touch, repeat touch do not attach to see if the starter will engage and spin the engine over. If the engine spins over and starts you will need to incorporate a relay into the starter circuit to insure the engine starts when the key is turned to the start position. I am assuming you have already by now removed and replaced the fuse.

 

[Mike1969]

Gator:

I can jump the starter relay and get the motor to spin, but its faulting out like the PTO is engaged, preventing me from normally turning over the engine with the starter switch.

 

[Mike1969]

On the brake switch, once you find it, you can use a paper clip to jumper the wires. If everything still works the same way as you have it, then it isn't the switch, and you don't need to purchase a new switch.

I did some thinking over the weekend, and I remembered that Cub Cadets are notorious for losing their grounds. Trace all your grounds out and dismount them one at a time. Of course, remove the negative battery cable before doing this. Polish up the grounds and the corresponding frame ground(s). You could also put some dielectric grease on them to help preserve the contact surface.

Try that out and see if that helps. With the age of your tractor, I'm almost betting this could be one of your underlying problems. I had a similar problem on my Farmall Cub. The darn thing nearly drove me batty until I found the bad ground. Paint may look good, but it provides a terrible ground. Don't ask me how I know.

Thanks Windcatcher.

The brake switch proved out ok when I tested it with my VOM.

I have resigned myself to the fact that I must have a bad ground, corroded connection, or broken wire somewhere in the system.

The thing that bothers me the most is the "Disengage PTO" fault light. I have gone thru the wiring schematics for the tractor and checked every connection that looks like it is in this circuit and it all seems fine.

Early on I suspected a bad ground somewhere and jumped the negative battery terminal to the engine block and the chassis in the area of the starter solenoid, with no results. I think that probably ruled out a bad frame mounted ground somewhere.

Per your post I am going to go back through and check every frame ground connection and plug connector to see what I can find.

At least it will keep me off the streets for a while.

 

[windcatcher]

Mike,

I know this may sound crazy, but hear me out. I had some strange problems on my Simplicity Landlord - electrical related too. PTO symptoms and running on one cylinder. I replaced the seat switch, PTO switch, ignition switch, and eventually the entire engine! I did manage to get the engine running on both cylinders, but there were strange electrical issues popping up.

So, I started to reverse the switches I had replaced. I replaced the seat switch with the original. No change. I replaced the foot brake pedal switch with the original. No change.

Then, I replaced the ignition switch with the original of which by now I had cleaned with electrical contact cleaner.

Guess what? A brand new ignition switch had cost me two months of down time and a property that now had grass and weeds over a foot tall!

I was so disgusted that I immediately went to the fridge and grabbed an adult beverage.

All that time and money for a brand new ignition switch. grrrrrrrr!

Moral of the story: if you've changed something and it really didn't help, maybe you need to retrace your tracks to make sure you haven't caused yourself more problems than were there to start with.

Yeah, it'll keep you off the streets but it'll also play with your head too.