CC 5252 Engine Oil

[wojnaroski]

Hard,

I have a lot of things to do , thank you. It's not about being cheap, it's about using the best for my equipment. That is why I personally contacted Hydro-Gear. I am using THEIR recomendation.

I have also contacted Cub Cadet. Personally talked to them, understand? In their opinion, I am doing nothing to void the warranty. I have also received a PM from Cub Tech stating that as long as a name brand "quality" filter is used, there is no problem with the warranty.

Also, I never said what kind of filter I am using, where did you get the cheap Wal-mart crack from? Please read the posts more closely.

I have always tried to be impersonal in my posts. My posts are for information only. I am not "cheap" and where do you get off labeling anyone?

Alan

 

[JSharp]

As far as substituting the Cub Drive System Plus transmission fluid, if you are still within your warranty period you better check with your dealer and Cub Cadet to make sure that by substituting another fluid that you don't give Cub Cadet a reason to void your warranty if you have a transmission problem. I am VERY, VERY familiar with tranny problems on a 5000 series tractor.

I know that you should be able to put in any fluid you want in your tractor that meets the Cub specs but it does not work that that easily if there is a tranny problem. I use only Cub filters and fluids on my tractor with the exception of motor oil and I know that practice has worked to my benefit during my warranty period. Paying more for a few filters and some tranny fluid now could save you a lot of $$$ later.

Cub can't require their fluid or filters to be used to maintain warranty coverage unless they're willing to provide those items free of charge for the life of the warranty. That's part of the tie-in sales provision of the Magnussen-Moss Act.

Cub would also need to show that whatever non-Cub item you used was in fact repsonsible for any failure before they can legally deny warranty coverage. The burden of proof is on them, not on you as the equipment owner.

 

[Mike5252]

Thanks for the responses. Seems like I may have inadvertently hit on a bit of a sore nerve with a couple people.

Even if CC tried to claim my use of a non OEM transmission fluid voided my warranty (which I agree they likely can not do) how exactly would they go about proving this? Once out of the can, I bet its pretty darn hard to tell the difference from the OEM oil to the Mobil 1 product. I can't imagine they would plan on sending the tranny fluid off to a lab for analysis.

As for engine oil, I was really looking for viscosity. What viscosity is everyone using? Are there special codes (like SG for example) that I should be looking for?

 

[Mike5252]

Alan,

In response to your earlier note, I got my 5252 about a month ago. Only have about 7 hours on it to date. I have a 60" MMM and FEL. I only have an acre lot, so always looking for an excuse to get the tractor out. All in all I've been very impressed with the tractor. Its pretty much overkill for what I do with it though.

I'll be lucky to get 40 hrs a year on it. At that rate this tractor has a long long life ahead of it (even using non OEM oil and cheap wal mart filters!)

 

[Hard]

Cub can't require their fluid or filters to be used to maintain warranty coverage unless they're willing to provide those items free of charge for the life of the warranty. That's part of the tie-in sales provision of the Magnussen-Moss Act.

Cub would also need to show that whatever non-Cub item you used was in fact repsonsible for any failure before they can legally deny warranty coverage. The burden of proof is on them, not on you as the equipment owner.

I know all about Magnussen-Moss and Cub can't require etc, etc and so on and so on, everyone knows this, not very profound...But it's a lot easier to deal with a manufacturer if there is a problem covered under warranty (especially a major problem like a tranny or engine) if the owner has used factory parts, filters and fluids. If you can afford to buy a 5000 series Cub tractor you should be able to easily afford a few more $ to buy Cub Drive Fluid Plus and a Cub filter while under warranty. Unless you financed your tractor and your monthly payment is taking you right to the edge every month, in that case maybe the tractor should be sold.

I think some folks just get their jollies by thinking they are stiking it to the manufacturer and/or their dealer by saving a few pennies on other than factory branded parts and fluids. Then they get on a website like this one and brag about all the money they saved and cite Magnussen-Moss etc, etc...

The relatively insignificant amount of money saved is just not worth the hassle in my opinion.

 

[JSharp]

I know all about Magnussen-Moss and Cub can't require etc, etc and so on and so on, everyone knows this, not very profound...But it's a lot easier to deal with a manufacturer if there is a problem covered under warranty (especially a major problem like a tranny or engine) if the owner has used factory parts, filters and fluids. If you can afford to buy a 5000 series Cub tractor you should be able to easily afford a few more $ to buy Cub Drive Fluid Plus and a Cub filter while under warranty. Unless you financed your tractor and your monthly payment is taking you right to the edge every month, in that case maybe the tractor should be sold.

I think some folks just get their jollies by thinking they are stiking it to the manufacturer and/or their dealer by saving a few pennies on other than factory branded parts and fluids. Then they get on a website like this one and brag about all the money they saved and cite Magnussen-Moss etc, etc...

The relatively insignificant amount of money saved is just not worth the hassle in my opinion.

In my case though I wasn't concerned about the money. I saw the filters that came on my 2554 and the oil that was used in the Kohler and wasn't impressed. In fact, I'd still use the filters I'm using and a different oil than factory supplied even it was all free from Cub. I'm more concerned about how long my tractor lasts after the warranty than how much a few low $$ disposable items and some oil costs.

Unless I misunderstood him, I think wojnaroski was saying the same thing...

 

[wojnaroski]

JSharp,

Exactly.

Thanks, Alan

 

[wojnaroski]

Mike,

I also only have a little over an acre, most of it down hill. My Mother-in-law has over six acres in Kentucky that I have been working on for her. Thank goodness I have a place to play! Later this month I will be getting a 4' brush hog. Sure wish I had a FEL. That must be really nice.

When I purchased my tractor I had to have an operation and couldn't use it for two months. Never thought I would see the first 10 hours on it. That came and passed some 70 hours ago.

Also added a cigarette lighter plug-in adaptor on the rear fender. The wires for this are under the right rear fender, Cub used to offer a light kit. Came in handy when I ran over some boards with nails in them. Real easy to pump up the tire until I had the time to get it fixed.

Lastly, Cub has stood behind each tractor I have owned with never a question. They even paid for transportation.

Good Luck, Alan

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Asking what kind of oil is best is like asking what the best car is. I've used Quaker State for years in my cars, RV's and tractors but occasionally use Havoline or other oil when I can't find anything else on sale. My Cub 1450 had 1000 hours on it with Quaker State when I had to replace the oil pan. I couldn't believe how clean the Kohler 14hp engine was inside. I've heard remarks about Fram filters several times and someone even has a website dedicated to showing the faults of Fram filters. I currently have one in 3 cars, my RV, and my Cub 3235 mainly because that's the only brand you can find anymore at discount stores. I can't vouch whether they are good or bad except that I've used them for years and never had a problem.

Bob B.

 

[Bird]

Bob, I think you hit the nail on the head. Forty-eight years ago, when my Dad had a service station and an auto parts store, we sold Fram, AC, Wix, and Purolator filters, with Fram being by far the biggest seller. So I continued using them until 3 years ago when I moved back to town and quit doing my own oil changes. And since my Dad had a Texaco station when I was 16, I used Havoline oil until he sold that station and bought a Mobil staton, so I used Mobile oil until I left home and was working nights and the only convenient place to get my oil changes was an Exxon station, so I changed to Exxon Uniflow. Then in 1982 when I bought a diesel Isuzu, a CC/CD oil was recommended, and Quaker State was rated CC/CD back then. A friend had a new Mercedes diesel and Quaker State was one of the brands his manual specifically recommended. So for 20 years, all my vehicles had Quaker State oil and Fram filters. If fact, I used Quaker State 10W-40 for the first couple of oil changes in my '95 Kubota B7100 before noticing that they no longer had the diesel rating. I called one of Quaker State's tech support guys and talked to him about it, and he said they dropped the diesel rating, that the oil would do just fine in a diesel, but should be changed more frequently than a diesel rated oil. So at that point I changed to Chevron's Delo 400 in the tractors.

And like many others, I've never had a lubrication related problem with any engine I've owned.