Chains Chain clearance from ROPs

manysek · Jan 29, 2015

:newhere:
To anyone operating tractor in winter:
This is my first winter using heavy chains on rear tires of my 2003, 50 hp Yanmar LX4900. I found out that, in about 18" of fresh powder, going up on app. 30% incline, the best hill climbing performance is going backwards with extended backhoe, locked differential of course and some limited assistance from the front wheels in 4W drive, barely making it.
My issue is that with the fat 17.5" - 24" rear tires there is only about 1" clearance between the inner 3/8" links and the ROPS. The right ROPS bar also carries a bracket with hydraulic connectors that will be difficult to relocate. My question is - does anyone have any experience with chains, is there any way I can prevent them from moving around on the tire to minimize the risk of them catching on something? The chains are of simple ladder type with 13 cross chains overlapping the tire by about 4" on both sides, held by the 1/4" circumference inner/outer chains. I appreciate everyone's wisdom.

Manysek

GolfAddict · Jan 29, 2015

I've seen folks use bungee cords hooked in the chains in an "X" across the tire.

k0ua · Jan 29, 2015

I have to tighten the chains with bungee cords as tight as I can get them. If you have a full 1 inch, you have a lot of clearance.. I have maybe 3/8 of an inch maximum clearance. I could profit from some wheel spacers to set the wheels out further. If you are not happy with your one inch, then you could buy some spacers too. But I would be happy with 1 inch of space, and tighten the chains.

showcattle · Jan 29, 2015

You don't say if you can widen the rear stance of the tractor. Is the rear widened at all? That'll make a huge difference.

showcattle · Jan 29, 2015

You don't say if you can widen the rear stance of the tractor. Is the rear widened at all? That'll make a huge difference for chain clearance.

oldtimer 66 · Jan 29, 2015

Manysek, attached picture shows 17.5 -24 tires on my JD. I have more clearance than you mentioned. I bought new road chains with the cross chain on every other link and I also purchased the factory spring binders as shown. Plus the small hand binder to put them on. I would suggest that you do the same on the spring binders. On the left side of my tractor, the inter fender is the poly fuel tank. It extends from the rear end edge of the fender to under the threshold and to the front edge of the cab. The last thing I want to do is damage that fuel tank. It is probably pricey. The opposite side has the AC lines running up the inter fender well. Another pricey area. These chains, at road speed, hump up probably 3 to 4 inches just missing the fuel tank and AC lines. I do travel up and down the roads , dirt roads that is. I was extremely lucky that I did not ditch my tractor on several occasions before I loaded the tires and added the chains. You still need to be careful because the tractor will drift on the crown of the snowy road and you will need to brake steer some times. Just some info. Later.

k0ua · Jan 29, 2015

showcattle said:
You don't say if you can widen the rear stance of the tractor. Is the rear widened at all? That'll make a huge difference.

If he has the Ag tires, it looks like they are, but the R4 tires and wheels look not to be adjustable.

manysek · Jan 30, 2015

Hi James, thanks for the reply. I have industrial tires with one-piece rims, the wheel base cannot be widened unless I use:
a) agricultural tires with 2-piece rims (new tires and rims - expensive)
b) purchase custom made spacers between the rim and the hub, new bolts etc. ($500/wheel). Fenders are high enough, no concern there.
hence I was looking for advice involving the existing setup, such as having the inside guide chain ride higher on the tire, for instance, or perhaps tack welding a 1/4" shield on the vertical part of the ROPS where the chain links can hit etc.
Thanks,
manysek

manysek · Jan 30, 2015

I am using a lever tensioner across the outer chain but bungee cords are a great advice.
Thanks,
Manysek

k0ua · Jan 30, 2015

manysek said:
Hi James, thanks for the reply. I have industrial tires with one-piece rims, the wheel base cannot be widened unless I use:
a) agricultural tires with 2-piece rims (new tires and rims - expensive)
b) purchase custom made spacers between the rim and the hub, new bolts etc. ($500/wheel). Fenders are high enough, no concern there.
hence I was looking for advice involving the existing setup, such as having the inside guide chain ride higher on the tire, for instance, or perhaps tack welding a 1/4" shield on the vertical part of the ROPS where the chain links can hit etc.
Thanks,
manysek

Spacers should not be that expensive.. You should be able to get a set of two for around $400. Contact these guys and see if they can custom make you up some. Their 1.5 spacers for a Kubota l3800 are about $133 each.. I am sure they would want some more for researching your wheel spacing dimensions etc, but they may be able to help you.

https://www.motorsport-tech.com/contact.html