chainsaw sharpening question

[anthonyk]

I've got a Husqvarna model 359 chainsaw with a 20 inch bar.
The chain has a 3/8 inch pitch. I've tried sharpening this chain with a Husqvarna chain sharpening kit, but I'm embarassed to say that the accompanying pictures on the back of the sharpener file didn't tell me much. Right now I could probably chew through trees faster than this thing's cutting. Any idea where I could get some simple, straight forward instructions on sharpening chains. I've searched the Net, not much luck.

thanks, Anthony /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[LarryD]

The holder for the file should have marks on it for proper angle. I sharpen mime from the outside of the tooth in, but I seem to remeber a logger once showed me the other direction. Anyway, seems to work fine for me and while it doesn't throw toothpicks, it works pretty well.

Did you try looking at the Husqvarna site or mabey search the web for logging sites.

 

[bgott]

Where at in Houston do you live? Bring it by and I'll show you how to do it. I'm on the east side, Beltway 8 and I-10 east.

 

[Egon]

Get your chain sharpened at a shop. Then look at the angles when you bring it home and firmly burn them into memory.

Try and touch it up every two or three tanks of fuel with the same angles. Make sure the chain is tight when doing this. File from front to back so you do not leave a burr on the sharp edge. Use light strokes and rotate file often. For most of us it takes a little time to do it reasonably well.

Also remember different type of chains may have different angles. There is also a gauge to set the raker depth which will require a flat file.

I have found using a block of wood under the chain for support and facing the saw seems to work best for me.

And do have patience - keep on working at it. Expect a few less than perfect sharpenings.

An attached picture of some mouldy maple I'm cutting up using a chainsaw and guide.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Moon]

Any chance the chain is on backwards? This will cause similar results to what you described. ...don't ask me how I know /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Moon of Ohio

 

[Youare]

I remember my first sharpening attemps, I was ready to sell the saw to the first person who came along. The only secret is practice and observation.

If the chain on the saw has a srcibed line on the rear of the tooth this is a good guide for the angle the top of the tooth should have.

Oregon makes a file guide that holds the file on the underside which works quite well. You just rest the guide on the top of the tooth and the raker in front keep the proper angle and push the file going from the inside of the tooth out.

Once you get the hang of it you can use just the file. The top angle should be as even as possible on both the left and right cutting teeth or the saw will cut more on one side than the other. This can be very upsetting.

After you have sharpened the teeth a few times it is important to file the raker in front of each tooth, this controls the depth of cut. A sharpe tooth and a high raker makes for a slow cutting chain. Once again a raker depth gauge and a flat file is all you need to keep things in shape.

Good luck and don't give up you can do it.

Randy

 

[PhilNH5]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Any idea where I could get some simple, straight forward instructions on sharpening chains. )</font>

Stihl's chain sharpening instructions

 

[Buckcreek]

I bought a cordless dremmel and a dremmel chainsaw shrpening attachment , it has goog directions with it. I bought it after i read a post on here were sombody mentioned it. I know someone else who got in a hurry and put there chain on backwards /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif,

 

[SkyPup]

I have a 359 with a 20" bar and 3/8 chain and it works excellent.

You probably have the small blue sharpening file holder, it is not difficult to use although there are other easier accessories to hold it at the proper angle.

If it is the small anodized aluminum blue one, just snap it over the link tooth you wish to sharpen and slide the 3/8" file on the clear smooth plastic rollers.

http://www.usa.husqvarna.com

 

[sendero]

I have a Husky 350 with 20" chain. I've cut a lot of trees and I've gone through the same thing you are. Some random thoughts....

A sharpened chain will never be as good as a new one, seems that heat changes the temper of the metal - but you can make it usable.

I took a couple chains to the shop to be sharpened, they did only slightly better than I can do with a file.

The "angle" thing really isn't that difficult. The leading edge of the teeth tell you the angle in one plane, the other plane you can "feel".

I've used a rat-tail file but never found it to work very well.

I get the best results using a Dremel and the little stone. I don't have the attachment, I do it freehand. I put a bit of muscle into it and give each tooth about 3 seconds of grind.

Once in a while if the teeth don't seem to be biting into the wood deep enough, you need to grind the rakers down just a bit. Probably every 5 sharpens or so.