Chainsaw Size and Task

[DaRube]

I am leaning toward getting a small chainsaw (ie. Stihl 017) with a 14 in. guide. The majority of my use will be cutting small branches, and cutting through brush.

I do anticipate having to take down one or two larger trees per year because they die.

Is a small chainsaw incapable of the infrequent large tree work, or is it more a matter of time? Or safety? What would be the practical maximum tree diameter that I should take down with a small saw?

 

[scruffy]

DaRube, I would recommend two saws! One with a brush bar for your clearing and limbing, and one (20" bar/chain) for the tree work. A brush bar is more or less a rounded loop, and is much safer when cutting brush down close to the ground.

 

[Joe_W]

Hello DaRube,
I bought a Stihl 018 this summer for cleanup work and the occasional tree felling. I went with the smaller size due to back problems and the need for less weight. The other day I cut down an 86' walnut tree that was about 22" in diameter at the base. I cut from both sides and didn't have any problem getting it down and cut up. Although I do have frequent problems with the saw dying and losing power, and also being hard to start. Last night I cut up a hickory tree that fell in a recent storm. When I got done my back was killing me. But if I was using a heavier saw, I never would have been able to finish the tree last night. In theory you can take down a tree that is twice the diameter of the exposed length of your chain bar. But in practice you will run into bumps and obstacles that will limit you somewhat. I would recommend that you get the smaller saw, then when you need a bigger one for the occasional work, either borrow or rent a larger saw. Your back will thank you for it.
Joe W.

 

[ric]

Your 017 is just for trimming tree limbs and brush, not trees. The engine and bar are not designed to take the heavy sustained side load of cutting trees down. Although you can, as suggested in another post, you will fairly quickly take out both cranks seals and knock the case cement loose all of which cause vaccum leaks which prevent the saw from starting or running correctly. I'd bet this applies to all Stihl saws up to the 025. The 025 and above are for cutting down trees. The best unit for the money is probably the 029 or ms290 which is a renamed 029. My original Stihl dealer sold me the 018C as a light, easy to use, easy on the back saw I could cut down trees with. I also experienced the hard to start, stalling, no power problems which was traced to the fuel. Seems like with the lower end saws, 018C and below, you have to empty the fuel after each use, then run the saw dry, then mix new fuel just before you use to avoid all the hassles. Once I figured out the fuel issue the 018C ran okay from May 99 to August 01 when it just suddenly quit having self destructed as described above. In two years I cut mostly limbs and brush, but did cut down 12 to 15 trees all around 12 inches in diameter. I now have two chainsaws, an 029 to cut trees and a 18C to trim with. The Stihl saws on the low end 018C and smaller seem to be prone to other issues too, plan on changing the bar, chain and sprocket yearly as these parts also strain the seals and block glue if they are used when they have any wear on them. These saws also seem to have problems with the fuel line getting pin holes in them, probably from heat and age. The gas tank vent duck bill just inside the filler opening on the top of the tank will clog up causing the saw to lose power or be hard to start. Other issues include the spring on the on off switch being too stiff keeping you from controlling the saw on occasion. The cover over the air filter will pop off suddenly while you are using it letting the filter element fall out. The rubber gasket and the plastic insert behind the carb which seals the carb and provides the vaccuum signal to the carb can wrinkle or collapse creating a vaccuum leak and a power loss. The 029 does not have any of these problems. After I replaced the two crank seals, $15 each, bought the glue, $20 for a small tube, bought a new bar, chain and sprocket, another $60, this thing runs great again and you can bet I'll not be cutting any trees with this now high dollar low cost saw. Good luck, ric

 

[Knight9]

Hmmm...

<font color=blue>The Stihl saws on the low end 018C and smaller seem to be prone to other issues too, plan on changing the bar, chain and sprocket yearly as these parts also strain the seals and block glue if they are used when they have any wear on them. These saws also seem to have problems with the fuel line getting pin holes in them, probably from heat and age. The gas tank vent duck bill just inside the filler opening on the top of the tank will clog up causing the saw to lose power or be hard to start. Other issues include the spring on the on off switch being too stiff keeping you from controlling the saw on occasion. The cover over the air filter will pop off suddenly while you are using it letting the filter element fall out. The rubber gasket and the plastic insert behind the carb which seals the carb and provides the vaccuum signal to the carb can wrinkle or collapse creating a vaccuum leak and a power loss. </font color=blue>

Kind of makes a guy wonder why one would recommend or buy such a saw???

Kevin

 

[Youare]

A 14" bar can cut down a tree 1 1/2 times the diameter. If most of your cutting is soft wood and infrequent then a small saw is goning to work fine. I had an old 015 that woorked real well for cutting limbs less than 8" in diameter.

A sharp chain is the most important thing for any size saw but more noticable on the smaller models.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

try this if you like. find a reputable chain saw repair shop and ask them about any used rebuild stihl saws. i have three 028 saws, and the last one i paid $150 for. It ran very well for a year and a half untill a rust hole developed in the gas tank. i used it as a parts hag for the other two that i paid $175 and $80 for. the older 028 is a mostly metal good running saw that i have cut through 20" pine and oak with. I also bought a used 038 for $250 and it is a real wood eater. my first saw was an 045 farm boss i bought used in 1978. i had it rebuilt 3 years ago and it still works but sure is heavy compared to todays saws

 

[rdln]

Darube, I have a 5 year old 017, got it when they had a special (free extra chain and case for 200 dollars). If all you will do is what you described go buy one. Just dont forget that you put the saw in the bucket ang go to scoop up that log.

consider that you can get a 20inch Poulan for about $160 also.

 

[Bird]

DaRube, I know Stihl makes some fine saws; my brother has an 029. And while it's seen some heavy duty use and held up well, the blasted thing is so heavy than an old man like me wouldn't have it. I have a 14" Poulan and a lot of the guys say they're cheap junk. Well, this is the second one I've owned, and the only reason I don't still have the first one is that I gave it to a friend when we took off traveling for 5 years. And with this Poulan, I'll tackle anything up 28" and not worry about it a bit. And the only thing I've ever done to it is get the chain sharpened. I do (usually) try to remember to pour the gas out of it and run it until it dies before putting it away so I don't leave a gas/oil mixture in the carb. to evaporate if I'm not going to be using it for awhile. Hmmm, just realized, it's 4.5 years old; reckon I ought to think about a new spark plug someday? Oh, I did clean the air filter once.

Bird

 

[DaRube]

Well, you have my curiousity about the brush bar.....but I've been unable to find a picture of one on the web......

I'm also curious about needing to drain the tank on these babies between uses....is this required on all chainsaws, or only certain models / engine types?