Chalkley Cup web page

[gator]

Amazing what you can find on the Web.Mark, found a web page about you and your cup <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.fieldlines.com/other/chalkley.html> here</A> .Neat.
P.S.Read the bottom paragraph on that page.

 

[MChalkley]

gator - Yeah, clearly written by somebody who doesn't know a great tractor enhancement when it lands on their toe. /w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

The link you found was inspired by Harv's search for magnets suitable for anchoring a 52-oz cup to a Kubota fender. He eventaully found them at the company that put up the link you found. I didn't have that problem, because Scruffy gave me some hard drive magnets that did the job.

It's funny that you should pick now to find that link and post this message, though. I was just getting ready to post a message describing my misfortune with my original cup yesterday. I had left my cup on the cupholder in the EF-5, where it's been in all the pictures I've taken of it since I first put it there at D&E's facility in SC. Well, yesterday, I picked up the cup and heard this cracking and ripping sound - the cup came up and the magnet stayed on the steel plate. The only reason I can think of for it failing suddenly is that I allowed it to freeze. That's the only variable that's changed. It was still below freezing when I tried to pick the cup up.

The moral of this story is that I don't think the Marine Goop will stand up to freezing. It worked great until then. So, I'm back in the market for glue...

 

[gator]

Mark,
I've had good luck with Liquid Nails For Small Projects

 

[MChalkley]

Right now, I'm trying a polyurethane glue by Elmer's called ProBond. It expands a little as it cures, but not enough to cause problems and can be sanded if necessary after 24 hours. We'll see how well it works.

BTW, I went back to the original posts about the cups and magnets. I was mistaken. It was Gordon who knew about the site for magnets. After Harv found out about them from Gordon, then got some magnets from them and told them what they were for, the company put the web page up.

BTW, (Harv, you'll be especially interested in this) when I examined the cup after the Marine Goop failure, it was clear that the Goop didn't really bond to the plastic (polypropylene) of the cup at all. The surface of the cup looked untouched after I peeled the remnants of the stretchy cured Goop off it. So, I may end up having to buy some of the wonder glue that Harv found in his search for something that will bond to polypropylene. I'll try this ProBond Polyurethane first, because I have it and because they claim it bonds any kind of plastic or metal. We'll see.

 

[gordon]

Remember to lightly sand the bottom of the cup and either use some brake clean to soften the bottom of the cup to help in the bonding. If you don't want to go the brake clean route some heat applied to the bottom of the cup first will help in the bonding process as well.

You never really glue plastics you sort of weld them. Oh and Mark---thanks---for the kind words.

Gordon

 

[MChalkley]

Gordon - When I used the Goop, I didn't even sand it - maybe that caused the failure. This time I did sand it lightly with coarse sandpaper and wipe it with lacquer thinner, because that's all I had. Hopefully, this one will be more permanent. But, the Goop lasted over a year - if the Pro Bond does as well, I'm not going to complain too loudly.

As for the credit where due - you're welcome.

 

[GlueGuy]

Mark,

Polypropylene is notoriously difficult to get glue to stick to. However, there are always new things happening in this area. Might want to try some of this stuff: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.burallplastec.com/pages/polypropylene_glue%5B2%5D.htm>Sticky stuff</A>

 

[duanet]

Mark,

I've been reading TNB for several months now and got introduced to the famous Chalkley Cup early on. It took a little while to figure out what it was, and I wasn't about to ask. I extend my sympathies, Mark.

Seriously, I have used J-B Weld, available at WalMart and just about any other store, for many things. Paul Harvey advertised it and I figured if he recommended it, it must be OK. It's basically a two tube epoxy and cures overnight - or quicker with a little heat. It's almost as handy as a FEL! If I had a Chalkley Cup that needed repair, I'd use J-B Weld as my first choice.

Good luck.

Duane

 

[MChalkley]

Duane - I have to admit that J-B Weld never occurred to me. I've used it several times with mostly positive results. I've always thought of it as a steel repair "glue", though, so I doubt I ever would've thought of using it for the cup magnets. I'll try it next time I need to do one. Thanks for the suggestion!