Change clutch
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greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
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- 6,126
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- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
First, what symptoms cause you to believe you need to change clutch and TOB? Under normal usage, a properly adjusted clutch and bearings should last hundreds of hours.
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//greg//
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
There is not a step by step instruction book, alot will depend on your owm mechanical ability. To replace the clutch you must have the tools and equipment to split the tractor at the bell housing.We can help you with some of the procedures and sequence but the rest is up to you.We do have any replacement parts you may need as well as a splined clutch alignment tool ( that we ship with our clutch assemblies at no extra charge)
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Let's start by stating that these tractors use a dry clutch system, and that what you're calling "trans fluid" is actually (or should be) gear oil. There's a set of seals in place to prevent gear oil in the mid-connect box from seeping forward into the bell housing. Occasionally these seals fail, but in this case it would seem unrelated to your getting stuck in the mud. FWIW, if/when enough seeps through to "wet" the clutch pack, you'd see clear evidence of it at the weep hole. And if that phrase is new to you,look for a small hole int the bottom of the bell housing. It's there to let the housing breathe (assists in the evaporation of interior condensation). That said, it wouldn't hurt to make sure that hole isn't blocked with mud.
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LD1
Epic Contributor
No disrespect intended with this post, but if you have to ask for step by step instructions on how to change a clutch on a tractor, I'd say it probably isnt in your mechanical ability to do the job.
Again, no disrespect. But it is straight forward. You have to split the tractor. You can easily look at it and see what all accessories and sheetmetal needs removed to do so, and then its just bell housing bolts and the tractor is split.
You also need a nice assortment of lifting tools/jacks, overhead hoist or engine hoist, jackstands, etc.
Again, no disrespect. But it is straight forward. You have to split the tractor. You can easily look at it and see what all accessories and sheetmetal needs removed to do so, and then its just bell housing bolts and the tractor is split.
You also need a nice assortment of lifting tools/jacks, overhead hoist or engine hoist, jackstands, etc.
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Having split my own 304 Jinma, I'd have to disagree with that assessment. I had never done any major work on a tractor before and managed it with some helpful advice from a couple of fine dealers and others on these forums. Could I have done it with no guidance? Perhaps, but certainly not as easily nor as well - it only made sense to ask for help and pay attention to the advice. I did it without using an engine hoist or overheard hoist, though I do have one. Also, the initial split is not at the bell housing but at the mid-connect box to bell housing joint, then the bell housing is removed. Some of the removal sequence on tinware and electrics and hydraulics was not immediately intuitive, though I've done many clutches on trucks and cars before, so it was very helpful to have some guidance. After all, that's what these forums are for, isn't it?
If you want to see what I went through on splitting mine, you read about it here: Major Tractor Woes in Paradise | CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS I managed to get the job done just fine in a weekend's worth of time, working by myself. It would have definitely been easier with a helper, though.
If you want to see what I went through on splitting mine, you read about it here: Major Tractor Woes in Paradise | CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS I managed to get the job done just fine in a weekend's worth of time, working by myself. It would have definitely been easier with a helper, though.
quicksandfarmer
Elite Member
I'm with Rich on this one, I split my tractor by myself having never done it before. My instructions are in this thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...35-jinma-304-tractor-running-low-2-print.html
The instructions start near the bottom of the page.
I will agree that there aren't really step-by-step instructions, every one of these tractors is a little different, depending on what they had on hand in the factory on the day it was assembled. But the basic principle is the same: disconnect everything that crosses the center of the tractor, support both halves, take the bolts out and roll the two halves apart. Fix what needs to be fixed and roll the two halves together again.
Where you will probably get hung up is when you hit an individual wire, cable or tube and you don't see how to disconnect it (or even whether you need to). That's when you come here and plumb our collective wisdom.
The instructions start near the bottom of the page.
I will agree that there aren't really step-by-step instructions, every one of these tractors is a little different, depending on what they had on hand in the factory on the day it was assembled. But the basic principle is the same: disconnect everything that crosses the center of the tractor, support both halves, take the bolts out and roll the two halves apart. Fix what needs to be fixed and roll the two halves together again.
Where you will probably get hung up is when you hit an individual wire, cable or tube and you don't see how to disconnect it (or even whether you need to). That's when you come here and plumb our collective wisdom.
Add me to the list of people who "disagree with the assesment." We who have limited experience like to get as much information as possible before undertaking a major repair.
Call Nothern Tool and ask to speak with a mechanic. They may have the procedure you want.
LD1 is correct about needing the proper tools. Some parts are very heavy and need to be alligned properly. My only advice is go slow and always think of how to do it safely. I am currently working on my Kubota L245DT which has a cracked rear axle cover. Several times I have told myself, "That was dumb". Be prepared to stop and start fresh another day.
Call Nothern Tool and ask to speak with a mechanic. They may have the procedure you want.
LD1 is correct about needing the proper tools. Some parts are very heavy and need to be alligned properly. My only advice is go slow and always think of how to do it safely. I am currently working on my Kubota L245DT which has a cracked rear axle cover. Several times I have told myself, "That was dumb". Be prepared to stop and start fresh another day.
