I've been using Castrol syn blend in my truck and daily driver (not tractor) with success for years. it's too hard to get now, and I'll be changing over to synthetic Mobil 1. my change intervals previously are a bit overkill at around 2500. what would be a slightly overkill change interval w/ Mobil 1 synthetic? thanks bb
change intervals dyno vs syn
- Thread starter big bubba
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kenmac
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big bubba said:
Just my opinion. But, if you are doing extended oil drains I would have uao's done to set some sort of a base line for your extended drains
Patches
Veteran Member
Depends whether it is still in warranty;go by the manufacturers' recommendation. If it's out of warranty, and a gasser, I'd go 7500. I used this guideline on the last truck I owned long enough to get out of warranty. It was an extended cab '93 GMC 5.7(350). I drove that over 140,000 before I sold it; never used or leaked any oil ,and had "0" mechanical problems. Oil,dino or synthetic, is too expensive to throw away less than 1/2 used
Marcussen
Gold Member
I don't know what your truck is but I always changed my oil at 5000 miles using Dino oil after 30 years of driving I have not had any mechanical failures that was caused by oil (My target for trading vehicles is 175000+ miles). If you are using the lates API rated oil SL/SM you should be able to go 5000 on any brand of oil. Your Mobile 1 should be good for 7-8K miles. Do an oil analysis at 5000 miles and see how it looks, then every 1000 miles until you reach the limit, (mobil 1 is usualy 10000 miles)
My '08 Ford requires OIC at 5000 miles for severe duty and 7500 for normal driving.
my '00 Chevy requires OIC at 3000 mils for short trip/city driving and 7500 for normal driving (I do 5000).
My '08 Ford requires OIC at 5000 miles for severe duty and 7500 for normal driving.
my '00 Chevy requires OIC at 3000 mils for short trip/city driving and 7500 for normal driving (I do 5000).
thanks guys, both engines are at 170,000 plus use no oil, no leaks, no sludge, good compression. I think your suggestion of 7,000 is a good start. I know, I'm a bit neurotic but the combined age of both vehicles (toyota 4x4, Honda CRX)is 33 yrs. and don't plan on getting any others soon. (7040 kubota is 1.5 years, nearly paid off). quality oil/changes is easier than payments thanks bb
ampsucker
Platinum Member
on older engines not "used" to full syn, watch for oil leaks around gaskets and seals.
change interval, as previously posted, is different for each engine and analysis is the only true way to tell. seat of the pants, i would think 5,000 to 7500 should easily be ok with full syn. i go a little less on my tundra since it starts to look carboned up at 5,000 and i tow a lot.
biggest problem i've had is with the seals and gaskets not holding the uniform molecule size of the full syn. dino oil seems to work better in these engines or you have to create your own additive pack to help the seals do their job.
amp
change interval, as previously posted, is different for each engine and analysis is the only true way to tell. seat of the pants, i would think 5,000 to 7500 should easily be ok with full syn. i go a little less on my tundra since it starts to look carboned up at 5,000 and i tow a lot.
biggest problem i've had is with the seals and gaskets not holding the uniform molecule size of the full syn. dino oil seems to work better in these engines or you have to create your own additive pack to help the seals do their job.
amp
ampsucker: your advice is well taken, something I've heard before. my hope is that the syn blend would have somewhat conditioned the engines for full synthetic with respect to seals. in addition, part of the year, I intend to use Mobil 1 10/40 high mileage, that includes their version of "seal conditioner" thanks again
dieseldave56
Member
Though the synthetic oil does not break down as the conventional oil i.e oxidation and lubricity, it does get just as dirty. I'm sure I can assume that your vehicles use bye pass oil filters, which generally allows oil to flow 5 times thru the engine before it is filtered.
So you have two issues to deal with on extended service oil change intervals; Lubricity and particulate matter (dirt). If an oil analysis is used ( recommended) at the end of your extended service interval, and is deemed satisfactory, then you will sleep better, Or perhaps just change out the filter (japanese use small filters) and top off the oil level.
Driving style ( short distance, lots of starts and stops) and conditions ( enviromental) will also play a part in determining critieria for oil change intervals.
So you have two issues to deal with on extended service oil change intervals; Lubricity and particulate matter (dirt). If an oil analysis is used ( recommended) at the end of your extended service interval, and is deemed satisfactory, then you will sleep better, Or perhaps just change out the filter (japanese use small filters) and top off the oil level.
Driving style ( short distance, lots of starts and stops) and conditions ( enviromental) will also play a part in determining critieria for oil change intervals.
kenmac
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I have a mazda 3qt with filter will fill her up. Per. uao I go 8500 miles
Personnally, when I spend 6 or 8 bucks a qt for oil, I want extended life out of it. If you are going to change the oil at 5k, then why buy extended life oil? Dino oil is fine for that interval. Some high end cars specify 0wxx oil, at 10 bucks + a qt. for 9 qts! Nothing like a 125 dollar oil change. Think I would change that every 3000? No way. Not with normal driving.