Changed tie rods on L4200GST

[Jay4200]

My tractor had one completely blown tie rod ball joint (1/8" of play, at least) and three shredded boots, so I got new tie rods and changed them. No big deal - I'm just excited because I FINALLY got motivated and changed them after having the new replacement parts (via Tractorsmart) sitting in my garage for at least 6 months.

It went OK, although I had to borrow a tie-rod fork from my neighbor, but it was just a bit too small, so I had to grind it to make it wider. Typical stupid automotive-type job...3 hours to replace the first tie rod, 9.7 minutes to replace the second.

Jay

 

[ozzie tractor]

the trick to getting tie rods apart is to throw the tool away. the easiest and quickest way (plus it wont hurt the boot either) is to undo the nut, then find a good lever, now put this lever in a position which will force the rod away from its mount. as you hold weight on the lever hit the side of the tie rod mount very hard with a hammer. put as much weight on the lever as you can and give the mount a few good smacks, (dont play about with it, hit the thing......) it will come apart, what it does is slightly egg shapes the rod mount, just make sure when you pu the new rod in you tighten it up really tight, this pushes the mount into the correct shape. might sound rough, but if you have a rod you cant undo, try it. definantly works.

 

[Jay4200]

the trick to getting tie rods apart is to throw the tool away. the easiest and quickest way (plus it wont hurt the boot either) is to undo the nut, then find a good lever, now put this lever in a position which will force the rod away from its mount. as you hold weight on the lever hit the side of the tie rod mount very hard with a hammer. put as much weight on the lever as you can and give the mount a few good smacks, (dont play about with it, hit the thing......) it will come apart, what it does is slightly egg shapes the rod mount, just make sure when you pu the new rod in you tighten it up really tight, this pushes the mount into the correct shape. might sound rough, but if you have a rod you cant undo, try it. definantly works.

I've heard of that method - one of my friends swears by it. I've actually had good luck in simply tapping out tie rod ball joints. A mechanic friend of mine suggested it - tap the threaded end with a hammer - don't bash it, just tap - like weight of the hammer. When I did my ATV, two taps and the things just fell out. No such luck with my tractor though. That method wouldn't have worked on the center mounts either (where they connect to the steering linkage) since there isn't enough clearance to get a hammer in there. I don't think you could get away with your mount-smashing method on that end either.

Jay

 

[DieselPower]

Ahhhhh, the joy's of owning a pickle fork that goes in a air hammer. One burp out of the air hammer and out comes the tie rod or drag link. They are cheap and you can get them from Sears. They are even Craftsman with a lifetime warrenty. Been using mine for over 10 years in my heavy truck repair business and still have not broken it.

 

[ozzie tractor]

Ahhhhh, the joy's of owning a pickle fork that goes in a air hammer. One burp out of the air hammer and out comes the tie rod or drag link. They are cheap and you can get them from Sears. They are even Craftsman with a lifetime warrenty. Been using mine for over 10 years in my heavy truck repair business and still have not broken it.

arnt they a good thing. absolutley work a treat. the reason i use the mothod i describbe is because when i go out on field service, i dont need to drag a large air compression with me.

jay 4200. i know what your talking about, not the easierst place to get to for sure. i have had to use a long drift before in tight spots. like i said it sounds very rough, but it does work. i would also like to point out a fair amount of machinery our dealership works on fits very neatly into the vintage tractor category. MF tea 20's, mf 35, etc. when you get a rod that has never been out in 50 years, some force is required....