changing brakes on MF165 (dry brakes)

[uniqman]

Hi all,
recently i replaced my MF165 dry brakes as although they were new, they soak so much in trans oil that end up useless and had to be replaced and not to mention that there was no braking at all but only a terrible sound like friction between two metallic parts.

First of all park and secure tractor in a level area with wooden blocks. Put also wooden blocks on both side of front axle stabiliser. Drain trans oil.
Remove wheel and fender, and using a crane and a chain hook up the trumbet side from the fender attaching holes and with another chain (i used a timing belt) from crane hook towards the front side of housing. (se attached photo) From this point the trumbet balancing the weight perfect.
Remove all nuts and very carefully pull out the axle and housing.
Lower the unit and let it rest on something solid. i used wooden blocks again.
On the inner face there is a cone bearing that actually incorporated in a dish type part which is attached on the axle housing with two cone small screws. Remove the screws and using a pry bar in to a special made slot pry out and split the dish type part.
When you remove this part you can see the brake liners and actuator. Changing is very straight forward job. I used new brake liners imported from malpas u.k that are made of semi metallic material and are more efficient. On the side of brakes the dish type part houses the oil seal that is blocking the oil from entering the brakes area. The new oil seal somewhere in the middle of its width is drilled and this hole has to be aligned with the hole that is on the dish type part. Now this hole goes through the dish part and any oil come out from the trans is dripping down instead of reaching the brakes.
It's important to separate actuator and pay attention on to balls and grooves. If they have deformation and deep marks they have to be changed as they will look when you brake and wont return back. If they are in good shape clean them and apply copper grease on them. This will make them work smoother.
Assemble and put back the dish plate. Very carefully push back the axle and housing aligning the axle splines in to third member by turning the axle from the wheel studs. Tight all nuts in a cross way. Now support the housing with a jack and remove the crane. Place back the wheel and while on jack turn the wheel and check the petal distance for braking. Adjust in such a way that wheel turns freely. You can do so from actuator nut. Set the petal height via the petal rod.
Below some photos.

sorry something went wrong with uploading. will try again.

bye now

 

[uniqman]

some photos as promised...

 

[uniqman]

[ATTACHsome more...

 

[budd4]

Hi all,
recently i replaced my MF165 dry brakes as although they were new, they soak so much in trans oil that end up useless and had to be replaced and not to mention that there was no braking at all but only a terrible sound like friction between two metallic parts.

First of all park and secure tractor in a level area with wooden blocks. Put also wooden blocks on both side of front axle stabiliser. Drain trans oil.
Remove wheel and fender, and using a crane and a chain hook up the trumbet side from the fender attaching holes and with another chain (i used a timing belt) from crane hook towards the front side of housing. (se attached photo) From this point the trumbet balancing the weight perfect.
Remove all nuts and very carefully pull out the axle and housing.
Lower the unit and let it rest on something solid. i used wooden blocks again.
On the inner face there is a cone bearing that actually incorporated in a dish type part which is attached on the axle housing with two cone small screws. Remove the screws and using a pry bar in to a special made slot pry out and split the dish type part.
When you remove this part you can see the brake liners and actuator. Changing is very straight forward job. I used new brake liners imported from malpas u.k that are made of semi metallic material and are more efficient. On the side of brakes the dish type part houses the oil seal that is blocking the oil from entering the brakes area. The new oil seal somewhere in the middle of its width is drilled and this hole has to be aligned with the hole that is on the dish type part. Now this hole goes through the dish part and any oil come out from the trans is dripping down instead of reaching the brakes.
It's important to separate actuator and pay attention on to balls and grooves. If they have deformation and deep marks they have to be changed as they will look when you brake and wont return back. If they are in good shape clean them and apply copper grease on them. This will make them work smoother.
Assemble and put back the dish plate. Very carefully push back the axle and housing aligning the axle splines in to third member by turning the axle from the wheel studs. Tight all nuts in a cross way. Now support the housing with a jack and remove the crane. Place back the wheel and while on jack turn the wheel and check the petal distance for braking. Adjust in such a way that wheel turns freely. You can do so from actuator nut. Set the petal height via the petal rod.
Below some photos.

sorry something went wrong with uploading. will try again.

bye now

I recently changed the Brakes on my MF 165 Diesel. On both axles there was a large amount of very thick oil that built up just below the brake disk to the point that it contaminated the dry brakes. I noticed the seal drain hole lined up with the drain hole/passage in the carrier plate that allow any oil the passed through one side of the seal to drain in the area that had the major build up. I was thinking about drilling a weep hole in that area to keep the oil from building up. Has any one done or though of doing this? There is a weep hole near the planetary gear system at the end of the axle, but the build up of oil will contaminate the brakes before the oil reached this weep hole.

I did replace all the seals when I replaced the brakes.

Any advice is welcome, Bud D4