Changing gears on a tiller

[PLUMMER]

Has anyone tried this. I have an 8N that is too fast in 1st gear for tilling, so I am "considering" changing the gears. Lower rpm for the tractor to lower ground speed but raise the gear ratio to make up for the lower pto speed.

 

[beenthere]

Understanding you to say you are thinking of changing the gears in the Ford tranny?

The subect line (title) says changing the gears on a tiller.

 

[284 International]

I think what he's wanting to do is run his tractor at a near-idle, for a low ground speed, but have the tiller still run as if it were seeing 540 +/- rpm at the PTO input by changing the ratio of the the tiller's drivetrain.

It may be that your tiller uses regular industrial sprockets that could be sourced from Surplus Supply or some similar store, and you could alter the ratios that way. Make sure you build a safe protective cover for it, and take pictures as you do the conversion to write up for us.

 

[beenthere]

Lower rpm will mean reduced hp at the PTO. Changing gears may just compound that problem.

Does the tiller then have gears? .....or sprockets for chains?

 

[2458n]

You need to find an older HOWARD tiller. The one I had used a gear set behind the pto to change the tine speeds. This is a common problem with tillers and is the reason the little four wheel drives are so popular.

 

[PLUMMER]

My bad, it does sound like that, but I am wanting to change the tiller gears.... I do have a 52" Howard HR-3, 246 rpm at 540 PTO rpm. I know that I cannot run near idle with the tractor. The unit works great even at the high speed the tractor is going. 1500 rpm and it says 536 PTO on the proof meter. We just did a tune up last weekend and wow is the tractor running much better and stronger. It was running well before or atleast we thought. But now it holds its rpms so steady and smooth under extreme loads and load changes. I ran it at full throttle before to maintain the rpms now it can run at 1/4 to half throttle without bogging or struggling to maintain. So now I am thinking running the tractor at 1000 to 1200 rpm or so and up ing the tiller gear and rpm. I am getting closer to that howard gear reduction unit but by the time I convince them to split it , it'll be too late for planting. Anyone familiar with the Howard tiller gears ? I had it all apart after I bought it and made sure all was good and I don't even think there's 50 hours on the unit. It has a huge chain (3/4-7/8) I believe. And the sprokets well lets just say the manual isn't so descriptive nor are howard parts easy to get around here. I know I'm just not asking the right people but I'll get there someday.

The tillers end chain case looks just like yours, the tensioner is identical, but the shafts are larger and so are the sprokets thickness. The shaft ends have an 1 3/8 retaining nut holding each gear on. I believe it was 12 splines on the 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 shafts. Your chain appears slightly smaller. I believe my teeth are about 5/8 wide. Thanks

 

[beenthere]

the shafts are larger and so are the sprokets thickness. The shaft ends have an 1 3/8 retaining nut holding each gear on.

Please call them sprockets and not "gears". That is if you are talking the sprockets that have the chain on them.

So now I am thinking running the tractor at 1000 to 1200 rpm or so and up ing the tiller gear and rpm. I am getting closer to that howard gear reduction unit but by the time I convince them to split it , it'll be too late for planting. Anyone familiar with the Howard tiller gears ?

Now am still wondering if you are changing sprockets, or if you are going with the Howard gear reduction unit which 2458n mentions?

Best of luck with whatever you convince "them" to do. Will be anxious to hear if it works out well for you.

 

[PLUMMER]

OK .....OK:laughing: You got me.. I am referring to the sprockets with the chain located on the end of the rotovator in my picture. However I would be willing to consider the auxiliary reduction unit if I could get my hands on one.... Any offers ?