Changing Hydraulic Filter

   / Changing Hydraulic Filter #1  

PeterCorselli

New member
Joined
Mar 14, 2022
Messages
2
Tractor
2008 Case 580 SM Series 3
Hi,
I recently purchased a 2008 Case 580 SM Series 3 backhoe.
I need to go through it and get all the service done, fix a few leaking cylinders and master being a backhoe operator.
I keep getting a hydraulic filter light on the dash so that will be the first filter to change. I should probably change all of the oil but I will do the seals first that way I don't waste brand new oil.
Is there a trick to changing the filter? Is it advisable to prime the new filter?
It seems pretty straight forward. I've downloaded the service manual (a couple of different ones) but they don't cover basic service like filters.
Thanks in advance.

Peter
 
   / Changing Hydraulic Filter #2  
Hi,
I recently purchased a 2008 Case 580 SM Series 3 backhoe.
I need to go through it and get all the service done, fix a few leaking cylinders and master being a backhoe operator.
I keep getting a hydraulic filter light on the dash so that will be the first filter to change. I should probably change all of the oil but I will do the seals first that way I don't waste brand new oil.
Is there a trick to changing the filter? Is it advisable to prime the new filter?
It seems pretty straight forward. I've downloaded the service manual (a couple of different ones) but they don't cover basic service like filters.
Thanks in advance.

Peter
Hey Peter,
If it is anything like my 2006 JD 310SG... then you have about a 1.5 or 2" diameter suction hose running from an oil reservoir under the center of the tractor forward to the hydraulic pump on the motor. Has hose clamps on both ends. Take a look at that hose. I thought mine was always a little oily because it needed the hose clamps tightened, but my mobile mechanic convinced me that when those hoses get old that 10 years and a few thousand hours of hot oils causes the the hose itself to develop internal splits on the inner diameter of the ends. You cannot see them, and tightening the hose clamps doesn't really help much.

What you get is a slight oil leak and some air in the hydraulics. That could sure be the cause of the light on the dash. The hydaulics still work, but some suction air and old filters can cause a warning light. It might not matter, but might as well change it out because it makes the whole hydraulic changeout so much easier.

What he did was simply put the tractor way up in the air on the backhoe feet - they have locking backflow preventers so it's safe to put it up and turn off the engine. I assume the 580 does too. In many ways the 580 is better for home service than the 310s.

And here comes the trick he did: He took a battery-powered drill and about a 3/4 inch spade bit, put a giant 20 gallon basin under the low part of the hose, ...... and then just drilled a hole in the hose !! Wow! When it was about half drained he walked over and took the filler cap off the hydraulic tank so the tank could breath, and the rest of the oil drained out in a rush.
I bet you I would have to do that 10 times before I didn't make 15 gallon mess. He didn't lose a spoonful of oil.

We pulled the filters - they were not quite full because the rush of oil drained them a bit. Replaced all including a new hose, and used some low viscosity transhydraulic fluid. Use low vis. on older BH in cold climates. Spend good money on hydraulic oil. I use JD low viscosity HyGard, Or Shell or New Holland or one of the major brand multi-viscosity trans hydraulic oil. It costs roughly twice what the basic nonname brand goes for at the farm store. Oil sure is costly. The JD 310 allows you to use 10W30 motor oil in the transmission so I tried it this last time. Much cheaper for 15 gallons.... But I don't like it. On cold mornings I get a warning light from the hydraulics. I'm going to drain it this summer and buy the good stuff. I hear you on the leaky seals...mine too.....but they probably won't leak a gallon and hydraulic pumps are EXPENSIVE! Transmissions too.

Don't forget a new fuel filter. Mine clogged this year.

Ok. I've bent your ear enough. I like the 310, but would have been a happy guy with a 580. That was my first choice in fact.
rScotty
 
   / Changing Hydraulic Filter
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks Scotty.
Appreciate the response.
I don't have any leaks around the filter.
I have a couple of seals that are leaking a little. The dipper cylinder and one of the stabilizers. The questions on those are for a future post.
Luckily, whomever did the filters last marked the date and hours on them so I know that the hydraulic filter hasn't been changed for over 2000 hours and seven years. I'm pretty sure its got some junk/water in it.
I'm really concerned about the last time the tranny filter was changed as it looks to be pretty tricky to get out.

Thanks again.

Peter
 
   / Changing Hydraulic Filter #4  
Thanks Scotty.
Appreciate the response.
I don't have any leaks around the filter.
I have a couple of seals that are leaking a little. The dipper cylinder and one of the stabilizers. The questions on those are for a future post.
Luckily, whomever did the filters last marked the date and hours on them so I know that the hydraulic filter hasn't been changed for over 2000 hours and seven years. I'm pretty sure its got some junk/water in it.
I'm really concerned about the last time the tranny filter was changed as it looks to be pretty tricky to get out.

Thanks again.

Peter

Filters rarely leak. The leaks I was talking about are at both ends of the suction hose and cause the suction hose to be oily.
I could not even tell that it was the suction hose ends leaking until I got under there with an electric power washer and cleaned everything off. What a difference! An electric cheapo power washer - 120 volt type - only makes about 800 psi although it advertises 1200. But that is enough. Any more and it would do damage.

I have spent a lot of time looking for the perfect tools to remove filters. Haven't found it yet.

For cylinder rebuilds I take mine to the local hydraulic shop. He has all the parts and tools to do it for little more than what it would cost me to buy a rebuild kit. Plus he has lathes big enough to polish cylinders.... to make cylinders, too if it came to that.
rScotty
 

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