Oil & Fuel Changing Hydro oil filter

[pearlmanz]

on new GT2542 CC.

Why does this need to be done so soon?

My guess is because of new parts working against each other in the first hours of use but it seems kind of soon.

I understand the break in oil and filter change after 25 hours, but the tranny?

What is the best way to change the filter without a lot of loss of oil, or should I just drain the tranny oil first. I would appreciate some help from you guys who have been there and done that. Thank you, The PMZ

 

[JTKub]

I changed mine after 5-10hrs. IMO- it doesn't make much sense to do so. I didn't cut open the filter, but the oil that came out was like new, and of course I lost a gallon of it out of inexperience. Looking back, I'd wait until after the first season. Drop the deck and lift the front end WAY off the ground to prevent oil loss once the filter is removed. Be sure to clean around the old filter before you remove it to prevent dirt from getting into the sump. It cost me a new filter and ~$32 for a gallon of CC Drive System Fluid Plus back in May/June 2005. I havent touched it since. I may do a filter change this year. I used a Carquest/WIX hydraulic filter last time (direct x-ref from the CC filter), but it may have been more expensive than a CC dealer filter. IIRC, the filter was like $12. It is a heavy duty sucker though. I will take it apart & post pics when I replace it. As far as the spec'd hyrdo oil goes, I'm sure you've seen by now, no direct aftermarket equivelents exist. It is made by Shell and called Shell TTF-SB. Like I've said before, it looks, smells and pours just like the Shell Rotella-T 5w-40 I use in the engine, but the specs don't look the same. I gave up & just stick with the CC stuff.

Joel

 

[pearlmanz]

Drop the deck as in lower it all the way down. I really am a little uneasy about having to completely remove the deck. It would be my luck, I won't be able to get it back on or the belt straight when I remove it. How would you lift the front of this almost 800 lb sucker. I have thought about buying a set of car ramps to do this? Thank you friend, The PMZ

 

[tonybada]

removing the deck on these units is real easy, and since you have the 42 inch deck it isn't that heavy. I have the same deck and I can remove it and re-install it in less than 30 minutes. It will make it a lot easier to remove that hydro filter, and like jtkub said you want to get the front end up high with some ramps. I lost very little fluid this way.

 

[JTKub]

Yes, you will want to aquaint yourself with the deck removal and replacement. You need to do this for cleaning, etc. It is very easy and requires no tools. I can fully remove and replace the deck on my 2544 in a few minutes. I shove a ~3ft strip of wood (1"x2") under the nose roller to allow for a super easy r/r of the nose bracket. The board gives you leverage to raise/lower the deck to set or release the nose bracket.

Joel

 

[peavs]

The HydroGear service manual for BDU 10/21 hydros states this:

Now, I have not substituted fluids on my 3225 yet but if I ever have to do anything major to it, I might.

Use at your own risk.

 

[wojnaroski]

Peavs,

Last year I became frustrated with the differing opinions on the cc oil and what should and should not be used in the cc tractors.

After a phone conversation with a senior person at hydro-gear I posted info similar to yours in this forum.

Currently I am using Mobile-1 15w50 full synthetic in my 5254. This was after a phone conversation with hydro-gear and their recomendation to use this oil. Wal-Mart was remodeling and I purchased my oil for only a couple of dollars a quart!

Alan

 

[JTKub]

..
After a phone conversation with a senior person at hydro-gear I posted info similar to yours in this forum..

As did I some time ago, but specifically in regards to the 2005+ 2500 series machines, not the 5000. The fellow I was in contact with at HG was very friendly and helpful, but his hands were tied in recommending an alternative. All HG does is ship the hydrostatic drive to CC. CC then supplies thier own differential gearing, housing, axles, etc... and bolts the Hydro-Gear drive unit to it. The HG guy agreed that a 40wt or 50wt is typical spec for the drive, but he had no idea what Cub wants for their differential portion since they are a shared sump. Again, it's just a slow speed differenial, not rocket science, it would probably run a long time on any oil, the HG guy just didn't want to implicate himself with a bad recommendation.

Joel

 

[pearlmanz]

But if I buy a set of car ramps to run the tractor up on, can I get to the filter without having to drop the deck for now?

I really don't want to do it unless I have to. I would think with a set of car ramps, I could drive it up on those and get to the filter without having to remove the deck.

What do you guys think?

I know I will eventually have to remove the deck, but I would like to wait till the end of the mowing season so if I have a problem, I will have time to fix it and won't have to worry about mowing. Thanks guys, PMZ

 

[LBrown59]

But if I buy a set of car ramps to run the tractor up on, can I get to the filter without having to drop the deck for now?

I really don't want to do it unless I have to. I would think with a set of car ramps, I could drive it up on those and get to the filter without having to remove the deck.

What do you guys think?

I know I will eventually have to remove the deck, but I would like to wait till the end of the mowing season so if I have a problem, I will have time to fix it and won't have to worry about mowing. Thanks guys, PMZ

No reason to take the deck off to change the filter.
Did you read the other thread about this ?
I just changed the filter on my 2554.
No running up on anything or lifting the front end.
Not taking the mower off either.