Price Check cheap vs expensive; longevity vs price

[llitten]

Ok, I am giving up on re-fixing an older craftsman lt1000 mower, over 12 years old. I mow a lawn aprox 1 acre in size. I would like the mower to handle hills, meaning able to pull itself up with ease.

The Crux of the question:

Do I, purchase a 800-1200 mower, with a lifespan of say 5 years, possibly more.
or purchase a mower of say 3000-4000 with a supposed life span of 10 years, possibly more. (It would seem more logical to pick up the cheaper model)

The mower at the top of the list for 3000-4000 range is the john deere x300 series. is this mower able to easily outlast the cheaper box store models?
What am I getting for the extra 2000 that the cheapies is lacking?

I am ready to be sold on the bigger models...but I am not sure if I am getting anything more out of spending my money.

thanks.

 

[flusher]

Ok, I am giving up on re-fixing an older craftsman lt1000 mower, over 12 years old. I mow a lawn aprox 1 acre in size. I would like the mower to handle hills, meaning able to pull itself up with ease.

The Crux of the question:

Do I, purchase a 800-1200 mower, with a lifespan of say 5 years, possibly more.
or purchase a mower of say 3000-4000 with a supposed life span of 10 years, possibly more. (It would seem more logical to pick up the cheaper model)

The mower at the top of the list for 3000-4000 range is the john deere x300 series. is this mower able to easily outlast the cheaper box store models?
What am I getting for the extra 2000 that the cheapies is lacking?

I am ready to be sold on the bigger models...but I am not sure if I am getting anything more out of spending my money.

thanks.

I assume we are talking standard riding mowers, not ZTRs.

If so, then the prices and lifespans you've cited answer your question--go with the cheaper mowers, assuming these have the features you need.

I'm on the 5th season using my Huskee riding mower that I got new from Tractor Supply--42" cut, 18hp B&S engine, Eaton hydrostatic transmission, mow in reverse capability. Cost:$899. I bought a 5-year service contract for $125. Used it once for an electrical problem during the 4th season---no cost to me. I mow about an acre.

 

[llitten]

That is my thinking too.... the cheap ones should last me at least half as long, if not as long as the more expensive models....

still waiting for someone to sell me into the more expensive mowers.

(yes, not looking at the zero turn models, not great for hills i read)

 

[rexcramer]

The expensive models should last 20 years, if not more, not 10, unless you are mowing commercially. Thats the only reason for buying one

 

[JoelD]

Being mostly a tractor forum this may not be the best place for a lawnmower post. But here's my thoughts. If you maintain your equipment, keep it out of the elments, change the oil, stay off of slopes if the motor does not have an oil pump, etc. I'm of the opinion, that if you are just mowing, I would say cheap should work out fine.

My two cents.
Joel

 

[Logan]

I bought a JD LT166 a few years ago for $2800, about twice or three times the price of box store models at the time. I have had lots of problems recently and next time I'll go cheap.

 

[greenmule]

Yeah,thats the question alright. And to make it even worse,think they make the cheap ones cheaper each year. I got two over 15 year old cheap ones that run fine still,bet the new cheap ones wouldn't last half that long.

Bought a new one this year,tried to not buy box store,but couldn't go over 3 grand,bought a LT 200 snapper,but at this point can't tell you much other than it works fine,but one from box store for a grand less would probably be working just fine now as well
I f you wanted to spend 5-7 grand,now would say at that range you are for sure getting a better mower.

 

[chh]

I went to the upper end of the "cheap" line last fall. I bought a Cub Cadet 1050 for about $1500 on clearance at Tractor Supply. Hydrostat, 24 hp engine and a 50 inch cut. The start switch can be turned to allow cutting in reverse, it had been so long since I had a riding mower I didn't even know that you couldn't mow in reverse without it until I started shopping. I had heard the same thing about zero turns on slopes and really could not see spending 4 or 5 grand(or more) for one. The 1050 does fine on the slopes in my yard and has plenty of power.
I was used to using a MF 1433V and a finish mower. To MF was worth too much to keep just as a lawn mower(IMO) when I needed a bigger tractor for hay work. So the MF was traded in on a 70 hp Montana and I got the Cub Cadet for the yard. The CC is more manuverable than the MF/finish mower but takes a smaller cut. Ask me in 5 years if I should have kept the little MF instead.

 

[buck12]

I prefer to buy a better grade slightly used mower. I got a great deal on a used JD GT235 a few years ago that has severed me well except the plastic tends to break and break. My father just got a really good deal on a JD 425AWS (guess what the plastic had been replaced). The box store mowers will cut grass but seem to have more problems (many don't have grease fittings). My neighbor has already replaced one or two spindles and a starter on a fairly new JD Home Depot model.

 

[WalterK]

I prefer to buy a better grade slightly used mower. I got a great deal on a used JD GT235 a few years ago that has severed me well .

Ouch!!!