check valve or not?!?

   / check valve or not?!? #11  
MadReferee said:
The first one will probably work. You ideally want to plumb it with hard lines right on the cylinder. I 'm not sure what the cracking pressure is on that valve but I remember someone saying that it will work.
Mad, the cracking pressure on that DPOCV is 4:1 ratio. So if it is a 3,000psi system, it cracks at 750psi. I bought it to try it out but Jim is right...they are BIG suckers! They are like 4X as big as the CCM toplink cylinder I have. Now I'll have the rear ballast I wanted.:D :) :confused:
I'll let you know when I have everything together and operating whether they work good or not.

Schmism, that is the only one that will work of all that you displayed. For the toplink, I'd definitely get the CCM one after seeing how huge these dudes are. Mine are going on big side link cylinders and I have room to hide them on my 55hp Kama.
 
   / check valve or not?!? #12  
Ya im not giving up yet. Im convinced i can figure out what CCM is useing.

If i had to take a wild stab at it, they are taking a reg $8 check valve and doing some addtional machineing to it.
 
   / check valve or not?!? #13  
schmism said:
Ya im not giving up yet. Im convinced i can figure out what CCM is useing.

If i had to take a wild stab at it, they are taking a reg $8 check valve and doing some addtional machineing to it.
Good luck. You obviously know little about hydraulic valves and how things like DPOCV's work. If and when you do your homework and start to understand how these things operate I am sure your tune will change. Many of us have been there and done that and we have offered some valid alternatives and suggestions. If you choose to ignore them, well, then I again wish you good luck.

BTW, as we have posted many times previously, CCM is using a DPOCV that is made in europe especially for this purpose. The valve in the configuration that they use is not available here in the USA and their cylinders and DPOCV's are made and assembled in europe and shipped over here.
 
   / check valve or not?!? #14  
MadReferee said:
Good luck. You obviously know little about hydraulic valves and how things like DPOCV's work. If and when you do your homework and start to understand how these things operate


Your correct my previous work experience has not led me to have to deal with hydraulics.

But then again not all of us are Mechanical engineers with the mechanical knowhow and ablity to reverse engineer and or "figure it out".

I Love a challange and have a full machine shop at my desposal, with ProE for the design side :cool:

Im not just your avg farmer dude :D
 
   / check valve or not?!? #15  
gabby said:
I have a homemade tilt cylinder with no check valve on my 4520 and it works fine.
gabby
From what Im seeing here and on other threads, just the standard tractor valving is usually good enuf - -even for a long term position hold. It seems this would absolutely be true for situations where you were making frequent adjustments. It is also attractive to build your own since you can get more close to your exact needs. So, Schmism, from these things considered I think when I do this I will chose the exact length I want and add small manual high pressure ball valves. I figure when I need a long term stable position I can manually close the valves. It seems to me that this would be safer too - especially if 2 people were working together. The ball valves give you a site cue as to the system status. It wont be changed accidently by just hitting a tractor contol.
Larry
 
   / check valve or not?!? #16  
SPYDERLK said:
From what Im seeing here and on other threads, just the standard tractor valving is usually good enuf - -even for a long term position hold. It seems this would absolutely be true for situations where you were making frequent adjustments. It is also attractive to build your own since you can get more close to your exact needs. So, Schmism, from these things considered I think when I do this I will chose the exact length I want and add small manual high pressure ball valves. I figure when I need a long term stable position I can manually close the valves. It seems to me that this would be safer too - especially if 2 people were working together. The ball valves give you a site cue as to the system status. It wont be changed accidently by just hitting a tractor contol.
Larry

I think the manual valves are overkill. Chances are, if you have leakage it will be inside the cylinder where the extra valves won't help. I'd just k.i.s.s it.
gabby
 

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