Checking valve clearance on a BX23

638 · Feb 8, 2009

Tools needed

10mm deep wall socket for glow plugs
7mm socket for glow plug wiring
10mm boxed end wrench
screwdriver
Number 16 drill bit
.006 feeler gauge (GO)
.007 feeler gauge (NO GO)

Using compressed air, blow dirt and debris from around the glow plugs, and remove the valve cover.
Remove the glow plugs with the 10mm deep socket. Once they are unscrewed you will have to pull them out of the head. They will be very hard to pull as they are bound up with carbon. Pull straight up with a twisting motion, they will come out. Using the number 16 drill bit clean the carbon from the glow plug holes in the head.
Turn the crank shaft until 1TC on the flywheel is aligned with the indicator on the left side of the engine and #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. (I applied a small dab of white paint on the 1TC mark to make it easier to see.)
At this time you can set both of the #1 cylinder valve clearances, #2 cylinder intake valve, and #3 cylinder exhaust valve. Number one cylinder being on the flywheel end of the engine.
Next rotate the crank shaft one revolution and reset the 1TC mark to the indicator. Now you can set the clearances on #2 intake and #3 exhaust valves. Replace the glow plugs using never seize on the threads and replace the valve cover. The intake valves are the forward valves and the exhaust valves are the reward ones. Per the service manual "the engine must be cold". I hope this helps those without the shop manual to do their 800 hr service.

escavader · Feb 9, 2009

RON,
Thanks for posting ,mines coming up in the next year or so.Igot a couple questions.
1]What size is a #16 drill bit,Im not familar with that?
2] Did you need to adjust them much with the suggested 800 hour intervale?3]what did you mean with go and no go on the feeler gauges?
4 have you noiced an improvement in power ,since doing the adjustments?
ALAN

638 · Feb 9, 2009

escavader,

#1 a #16 drill bit is .177" diameter
#2 four out of the six needed adjustment one had almost no clearance at all. I backed the screw out almost a full 1/2 turn. In retrospect I should have checked them at 500 hrs.
#3 adjust the rocker arm to valve stem clearance so that the .006 feeler guage will easily fit in, but the .007 will not go in or have to be forced in.
#4 I don't expect it to run any different, but as of yet won't take it out of the shop as we are in a spring thaw right now. 5 degrees one morn last week with 1 1/2" of ice and 6" of snow on top of the ice, 70 degrees today. More than just a little bit of MUD.
In going over the tractor, I noticed there was some paint chipping around the bolt heads on the right side of the FEL mount where it bolts to the frame. Those bolts were all 1/2 turn loose, left side was all OK. the only other thing that I did was to adjust the front axle pivot bolt up one notch. I sure do love the little tractor. By the way, I spent the better part of 3 days getting the ice and snow off of our church parking lot. Wore about 1/2" off of the front bucket edge trying to scrape that stuff off.

BigD23 · Feb 9, 2009

Thanks Ron...

Don

rdsaustintx · Feb 9, 2009

Been there, done that.

number two · Feb 9, 2009

Was the valve cover gasket reuseable or did it require replacement?I'm thnking about the same thing on our B3030.Thank You.

638 · Feb 10, 2009

The valve cover gasket is an oring type in a grove. I did not replace it

LBrown59 · Feb 10, 2009

rdsaustintx said:
Been there, done that.

I used to do something like this on my old 1950 Chevy 6 Cyl.
We called it adjusting the tappets.
It was done with the engine running.
You used a screwdriver and a box end wrench and a feeler gage.
That was a few day ago = 1958 to 1964 to be exact.