Chimney Repair

   / Chimney Repair #1  

Mac25

Silver Member
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Jun 6, 2011
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170
Location
Danville, IN
Tractor
Kubota B2320 HST with LA 364 FEL
I have a small chimney, 34"x34"x4' that had old cedar lap siding that has seen better days. I want to reside it with James Hardie vertical concrete fiber siding. What is the preferred method to affix the siding. I have heard that it is hard to hand drive a nail in this stuff. Can you drill pilot holes and screw it? Can you drill it with a standard drill bit? Any cutting suggestions? Thanks
 

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   / Chimney Repair #2  
Pre-drill the holes and use a coated nail of the appropriate size to drive it home.

It cuts with a regular drill bit and it cuts easy with a miter saw or skill saw.
 
   / Chimney Repair #3  
I use Hardie a lot and really like it.

Looking at your picture and having dealt with chimneys that look similar to yours, you really don't know how well the original wood is attached. I've seen a lot of them done with finish nails and roofing nails. They come apart way too easy. I would strip off the existing wood, go over the framing and probably make it a bit stronger. Then wrap it in OSB or plywood.

Wrap it in house wrap and either check the flashing, or install new flashing. Flashing around chimneys is a very common location for leaks into the house!!!

To cut the Hardie, you need a special Hardie blade for your circular saw. I have several of them, including one for my cordless saw. They all work great, but the more expensive ones last a lot longer.

Do the corners first. I prefer to use 3 inch deck screws to attach the trim. It takes a second or two for the screw to work its way into the trim, but then it goes in just like wood. I also use star drive screws and a cordless makita impact driver.

To install the lap siding, you can either use roofing nails in a coil nail gun, or hit them in by hand with a hammer. You can also use screws. Hardie makes their own line of screws designed for their tile backer board that work great on everything. They are heavy duty, coated and have a square drive. It's your call, but roofing nails are the most common way to do it. Just be sure to snug up the nail onto the Hardie siding. You never want to crack or damage the Hardie. The head of the nail should just touch the Hardie. With a hammer, this is easy. With a nail gun, it takes a little adjusting to get the setting right. Even then, some will go in too far, others will need an additional tap with a hammer to get them in all the way.

Nail at the top of each piece of siding and then cover the nails with the next piece of siding as you go up. Use good 40 year caulking to cover your top row of nails and your screws. Caulk down the sides of the trim and then use a good quality paint. Once painted, you will never have to touch it again. The only brands of paint that I like are Valspar and Sherwin Williams.
 
   / Chimney Repair #4  
The standard installation is to blind nail it using galvanized roofing nails. When blind nailing you must nail directly into the framing. The sheathing will not provide sufficient anchorage. You can hand nail using a heavy galvanized nail. Otherwise you'll need to pre drill. A masonry bit will be required, but a hammer drill is not. Be sure to support the backside or you'll blow out it out. I've also use lath screws with good success if you don't want to nail. Do not fasten the siding within 6" from the ends unless you check the instruction first. You'll also want leave a gap between the siding and the trim piece. This stuff tends to move around a bit and it needs room to expand. The corner trim needs to be 1" thick so the siding properly butts into the trim. 3/4" ends up being exactly flush with the siding and this makes for difficult caulking. When it comes to cutting the material, for a small job you can get by with a cheap carbide blade. For a larger job you should step up to a polycrystalline diamond blade. These blades have fewer teeth so they'll throw less dust. If you need to use a jig saw Hitachi makes some carbide tipped blades that work great.
 
   / Chimney Repair #5  
I like the Hardy board for that.
Fireproof, tough, durable and stable product.
Did mine that way as well and very pleased with the results.
I have the boards vertically installed with generous overlapping and caulked as well against driving rains.
Since I had few cuts to make I simply used a cheaper 'throw-a-way' carbide saw blade.
 
   / Chimney Repair
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Finally complete!

image-1593091412.jpg
 
   / Chimney Repair #7  
Looks nice. How did you do your flashing?
 
   / Chimney Repair
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Looks nice. How did you do your flashing?
The roof was redone a few years ago with new flashing, so I left it all in place. I did apply some more silicone on the flashing nail heads while I was up there.
 
   / Chimney Repair #9  
Silicone or flashing sealant? Silicone dries up and then falls off when out in the sun. For about the same price, there is a variety of products in the roofing section of the box stores that works good. Henry in one of my favorites at Home Depot.
 
   / Chimney Repair
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Silicone or flashing sealant? Silicone dries up and then falls off when out in the sun. For about the same price, there is a variety of products in the roofing section of the box stores that works good. Henry in one of my favorites at Home Depot.
Flashing sealant....I tend to use silicone as a generic term.
 

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