CK20 filter replacement

[malk315]

Apologies I've been away from forum for a while now.

Want to get filters to do 400 hour service on 2006 CK-20H and I understand there are 5 total:

Air filter
Engine oil filter
Hydraulic filter
HST filter
Fuel filter

Service manual and owners manual are clear that hydraulic filter is one you get at underneath by rear tire to the rear of the drain plug which is shown well in manuals (It's a spin-on filter and I think it's grey or black in color).
I'm confused on the HST filter -- is that under what appears to be an orange cover by your right foot behind HST pedal that I know I sometimes catch with my right heel when going for reverse w/ pedal?
Just spin that orange cover off and replace w/ a cartridge type filter I'm assuming that will be under that cover? Am I on the right track?

My brother is going to help me -- he's been in construction for years and has serviced all kind of diesel heavy equipment etc.
I plan to order everything from Twin State Tractor and have them ship to me so we can tackle it.

To do the tranny oil I'm assuming it'd be like this:

1. Drain from main plug and clean magnet any metal on there
2. Remove Hydraulic oil filter and replace
3. Remove HST filter under orange cover and replace
4. Replace drain plug.
5. Fill w/ capacity listed in manual through filler tube by the seat that has the red cap.
6. Check level w/ dipstick down by left foot area. Run machine, check again etc.

Engine oil + filter and fuel / air filters should be simple...

If there are any step-by-step threads others have posted with or w/o pictures of doing a service would appreciate any links.

Thanks.

 

[SSdoxie]

Almost correct.
The HST by your foot, that is not a cap but is end of the spin filter.
Draining the fluid - look farther back, I think there are 2 plugs 1 at bottom of each axle housing to drain (at least they are there on the larger CKs

 

[malk315]

Thanks for the quick reply.
Sure -- no problem w/ spin on HST filter -- we'll just change it.

Owner's manual picture of bottom that shows the hydraulic filter has large plug centered on pan and then 3 smaller plugs towards the back -- 2 at bottom of each axle housing like you describe and a 3rd at bottom of mid pto housing. I have an older CK20H where the mid PTO comes standard and I do use it for a mid mount mower.

Owner's manual just says remove the drain plug so I assume it's the big one closer to hydraulic filter in center of pan.
Should I remove the other 3 plugs too??

Thanks again.

 

[VictorW]

You can remove the main plug to get most of the oil and after it's pretty much done dripping, remove the other 3 to get a little more from each. At 400 hours, that should be the second time the filters are being changed but if not, they can be a bear to get off so have a good strap wrench or something to grab them well. Other than that, don't forget the front axle. I've never seen a step by step post but you're good as you listed.

 

[malk315]

Hey Victor - Upper Valley did all the filters Feb 2012 (almost 2 years ago) around 200 and change hours or whatever. It also had it's 50 hour service done by the original dealer in Harvard, MA at about 70 hours Also had Ketch from the dealership prior to upper valley taking over in Keene, NH replaced a harness to solve an electrical issue and he did at least the engine oil back then between original dealer and upper valley working on it. Over my about 8 years of ownership I've been pretty good about service -- all by dealers -- never the same dealer twice -- Kioti are you listening? It's a real PITA -- it's gotten too challenging to keep changing dealers each time. I have 16' trailer and easy way to haul so I don't mind giving dealers the business and just getting the service done right but man chasing down the best kioti dealer to try next and seeing it's gone is like herding cats

Rob Bassett came down to my house to take care of some glow issues after the first service and went through the machine so thoroughly I'm bummed he's only up in Enfield, NH now -- if he was closer I'd bring the machine to him every time. Hopefully Rob is still going at Twin State Tractor -- Kioti would be so stupid if they don't keep him going with their high dealership turnover. If you are anywhere in range of Enfield and Rob is at the helm of Twin state tractor I highly recommend him. My brother reported just yesterday the dealer in Northhampton, NH is gone now too? He was trying to see if he could get filters there. I don't mind ordering the genuine stuff from the dealers to help keep these guys in business -- I want to continue to support my tractor.... I hate how so many dealers come and go.

Thanks for the reminder on the front axle. I believe that has not been done and it's time to do it. Awesome -- we'll take care of it too.
If I remember right it's just drain the gear oil in there and fill up w/ new gear oil -- I've got the specs for that oil in the manual / shop manual.

So my brother and I will need to be my service guy for now! Would love it if a southern, NH reputable dealer would come to be again. I get my chainsaws from Chapel Tractor in NH if they were a Kioti dealer w/ a service guy anywhere near as good as Rob I would work with them! I'll bet Chapel is a great Kubota servicer -- they seem to have their act together.

Thanks for the replies -- I think we'll be set to go.

You can remove the main plug to get most of the oil and after it's pretty much done dripping, remove the other 3 to get a little more from each. At 400 hours, that should be the second time the filters are being changed but if not, they can be a bear to get off so have a good strap wrench or something to grab them well. Other than that, don't forget the front axle. I've never seen a step by step post but you're good as you listed.

 

[VictorW]

Doing your own service let's you know the tractor better and is cheaper. As far as the front axle, Kioti usually fills them with the same hydraulic fluid as you'll be changing for the trans and hydraulics. A 75W-90 gear oil is also recommended. Members here and some dealers seem to use either. I used gear oil because it just lubricates gears and there is no fast gear speeds. So when you drain the front axle, my CK30hst has drains on both sides that plugs need removed, it may drain faster if hydraulic oil was used. When filling, put in the recommended amount, drive it a 100yds or so, and then recheck the level. Mine ends up low and more is needed. There must be air pockets that don't fill and need the turning gears to fill them.

When you change the fuel filter, don't forget to put the valve to the air position when you start it and once the fuel bowl is full, you can turn it back to run. Your brother should be familar with this from his past heavy equipment work. I'm sure all will go well and the members are always willing to help if a problem arises.

 

[VictorW]

Sorry, it double posted.

 

[mpham]

I"m in Templeton. I go down to Belchertown on RT.9, Orchard Hill tractors, to get my filters now that NH. has no one close. Haven't had any work done though. I do it myself.

 

[RandyT]

Doing your own service let's you know the tractor better and is cheaper. As far as the front axle, Kioti usually fills them with the same hydraulic fluid as you'll be changing for the trans and hydraulics. A 75W-90 gear oil is also recommended. Members here and some dealers seem to use either. I used gear oil because it just lubricates gears and there is no fast gear speeds. So when you drain the front axle, my CK30hst has drains on both sides that plugs need removed, it may drain faster if hydraulic oil was used. When filling, put in the recommended amount, drive it a 100yds or so, and then recheck the level. Mine ends up low and more is needed. There must be air pockets that don't fill and need the turning gears to fill them.

When you change the fuel filter, don't forget to put the valve to the air position when you start it and once the fuel bowl is full, you can turn it back to run. Your brother should be familar with this from his past heavy equipment work. I'm sure all will go well and the members are always willing to help if a problem arises.

The final drives on the front axle extend about the shafts coming down to the final drives. Creates an air pocket that requires the gears to turn to get the air worked out. On my DK45S I have had times where it takes 20 hours of operation to get the final drives bleed of air.

 

[malk315]

Hey all-

My brother and I finally did the service yesterday and it went quite well!

I have 2 questions I'm hoping someone can answer:

1. We overfilled the HST oil. After running around for a while and moving 3 point, bucket etc. I pulled dipstick and collected about a quart that overflowed. I'm used to when machine is cold to pull the stick and find it dry -- wait about 30 seconds to 1 minute, put stick back in and pull and it's right at upper mark on stick like it should be. This morning before leaving for work I pulled stick w/ everything stone cold and oil is right there at top of check tube and I'll bet if I left it for several minutes a bit would weep out -- nothing came out in the 30 seconds I was there. Should I pull a drain plug and let some out or can I just let it keep overflowing until it stops and leave it alone?

2. The front axle check window showed it was low (factory or dealer oil in there changed at 465 hours yesterday -- calls for change at 400). The stock oil seemed quite clear and quite thin. Is this expected? I'm wondering if they put HST oil in there instead of 90 weight gear oil... not fun! We drained it from both low points good and put SAE 90 weight gear oil and ran around w/ 4WD in and out to work it all in and window shows an obvious level line right across 1/2 way up window as expected. Will monitor... no apparent issues w/ my front end / 4WD but concerned on thin oil from when machine was new.

Some notes on the service:

Used all tractor supply brand HST/hydraulic universal oil and their 15W-40 Fleet diesel engine oil and finally SAE 90 weight gear oil on front axle.
Hit all 4 plugs for HST drains (main magnet plug plus 3 low point drains noted in manual), both plugs on front axle low points. Engine oil is straight-forward.
Some sediment in fuel filter housing -- glad it is changed now and nice and clear.
Did the radiator -- the drain for that needed to poke it w/ nail as sediment had it blocked -- fresh anti freeze + water.
Saved old air filter as backup.
No apparent leaks so far other than HST wanting to overflow out the check tube.

Quite a job -- but I'm happy all things for 400 hours done and I'll be good for a while.
My brother is quick -- he services all kinds of diesel stuff for his construction company.
We marked all filters with date and hours.

Thanks for listening -- bring on the mowing season (will hit every grease fitting on tractor when I pull out the mower deck and hit mower deck grease same time).