CK20 Ignition Key Replacement

Sandlot · Dec 23, 2011

Well, it's time. My ignition switch is starting to give me fits when trying to start my tractor after it has set a few days. I need to work it back and forth a few times before I get the glow plug and oil light to come on. I was prepared for this and had ordered a new switch from Wallace Tractor & Equipment the minute it started acting up. Has anybody done this before and what is the procedure? Do I need to remove the dash or just the panel below the dash? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

ritcheyvs · Dec 24, 2011

On my DK45s it only involved removing the panel below the dash and it was all pretty obvious once I got started. Of course, the CK may be different, but I doubt it. For what it's worth, I disassembled and cleaned/lubed my ignition switch and my glow problem was fixed. My switch was pretty dirty inside from years of dirt/dust accumulation and that was the whole problem. If you decide to disassemble your old switch, do it in a room where you'll be able to find the parts that pop out or roll away and you may want to use a digital camera (or cell phone) to make photos to aid reassembly. I think I had to reassemble mune a couple times to get all the orientations right.

Sandlot · Dec 24, 2011

Thanks Scott. I will just replace mine and maybe take the old one apart for a look see. Your right, digital cameras are great for this stuff. Nice detailed pictures for when it's time to put things back together. Isn't it great when those little springs and balls go flying!

bearhawk · Dec 24, 2011

I give mine shots of electrical cleaner in the keyhole.

It does seem to help.

I believe you will need to pull the steering wheel to be able to lift the dash enough to access it. I took the lower panel off and you can barely see the switch, never mind access it..

Sandlot · Dec 24, 2011

bearhawk said:
I give mine shots of electrical cleaner in the keyhole.

It does seem to help.

I believe you will need to pull the steering wheel to be able to lift the dash enough to access it. I took the lower panel off and you can barely see the switch, never mind access it..

I was afraid of that. Maybe I can get my 5 year old grandson to reach up there for me! He loves wrenchin!

BTI · Dec 24, 2011

Remove all screws from upper and lower cowling as well as the throttle lever etc.
You can then reach up in and unplug the swtich and remove it.

BTI

VTFireftr · Dec 26, 2011

My CK30 is having the same issues. Is the ignition switch covered under warranty? MY tractor is under 2 years old.

Happy 2012!

marc

unhappykioti · Dec 26, 2011

Sure wish Kioti would come up with a better switch. I've replaced mine three times and it's acting up again.

Sandlot · Dec 26, 2011

Did you follow BTI's instruction about removing the screws on the dash and lower panel? Did you need to pull the steering wheel and throttle handle?

Avondale · Dec 27, 2011

On my DK 35, the main problem with the key switch is caused by dirt on the back of the switch, around the connectors. I bought a new switch but while rooting around to install it, found alot of muck and slime around the whole under dash area. I used spray cleaner, reached in give a real good clean with a lint-free rag and seems to do it for quite some time. I also spray inside the key hole. Kept the new switch as I was unsure how long I could keep it going this way but it's been more than a year, now.

Sandlot · Dec 28, 2011

I've been nursing this switch for awhile now and I just know that one day when I really need my tractor in a hurry, notin' will happen when I turn the switch. Just my luck.

Gittyup · Dec 29, 2011

Mine was problematic too until I cleaned the switch insides with contact cleaner. Let it dry real good. Then put lots of dielectric grease in the switch off the key and "washed" it down in with fluid film. I love that fluid film! Great stuff. It's been working good now for the last three years.

unhappykioti · Dec 29, 2011

Pulled the panels didnot remove steering wheel or throttle handle. With the panels pulled out there is enough room to reach in and unplug the wires and plug the new one in.

Sandlot · Jan 2, 2012

Thanks gang for all the tips. Now just need to make time to do the deed. :thumbsup:

whiskywizard · Jan 4, 2012

Good preventative measures. I'm going to spray mine with Fluid Film tonight!

Coyote machine · Jan 4, 2012

I can't speak to the CK-20, but the DK's have an available switch cover that can be pressed closed over the ignition key slot when the key is not being used and it has a lead that keeps it in place when not in use.
Personally, I wouldn't use Fluid Film on an electrical part. I'd use an electrical contact cleaner followed by a silicone spray, and then the key slot cover.

VTFireftr · Jan 5, 2012

Contacted my dealer - Upper Valley Tractor - and they sent me a replacement ignition switch.

Took me about 1 hour to remove and install new switch. My tractor now starts just like it was brand new.

Much easier for me to replace the switch than put the tractor on a trailer and transport it back and forth to Upper Valley.

marc

Gittyup · Jan 5, 2012

Coyote machine said:
I can't speak to the CK-20, but the DK's have an available switch cover that can be pressed closed over the ignition key slot when the key is not being used and it has a lead that keeps it in place when not in use.
Personally, I wouldn't use Fluid Film on an electrical part. I'd use an electrical contact cleaner followed by a silicone spray, and then the key slot cover.

Mine had the cover. It lasted less than a year before it broke off.

Why not fluid film? It is proported to be good for electrical contacts. I've used on several connectors. It's great on battery terminals too. Put that on; it stays on; no terminal corrosion ever again.

I also use dielectric grease. But the FF will get into places and stay where the grease cannot.

sodamo · Jan 5, 2012

Finally ordered a replacement for my CK30 switch. I'm hoping the new part number means it's a new and better switch.

whiskywizard · Jan 5, 2012

Gittyup said:
Why not fluid film? It is proported to be good for electrical contacts. I've used on several connectors. It's great on battery terminals too. Put that on; it stays on; no terminal corrosion ever again.

I also use dielectric grease. But the FF will get into places and stay where the grease cannot.

Agreed. Fluid Film is excellent on electrical components that need protection. I prefer it to dielectric grease in trailer light plugs, on battery terminals, and in connectors that are exposed to rain, snow, salt etc. It's conductivity is very low. Fluid Film says the specific conductivity is less than 10E-9 ohm/cm @ 1 mHz.