CK2510 Modifications

Vernorz · Apr 2, 2020

Long time lurker first time poster. I've owned a CK2510 for about 3 years now, so I thought I'd show some of the changes I've made. Maybe some of you will find it helpful, especially if you own a CK2510. Hopefully the pictures show up.

1) Made a new Loader Joystick as the factory one was way to short in my opinion. I have much more control with the new longer one. I took 1/2" rod and threaded the valve end, which is M14x1.5.

2) Made telescoping stabilizers. I'd have to measure everything to see what I used. It was the first thing I did when I bought the tractor.

3) Rear Wheel Weights: The rear wheels of the CK2510 have the same bolt pattern as a 6 lug chevy truck. I took the rear brake rotors from a Chevy 1500, drill 2 holes in the rotors, and welded 3/8 nuts on the back side. I then took the front rotors from a Chevy 1500 and drill 2 holes and bolted them to the rear rotors. I bought some longer bolts, M16x45mm Class 10.9 to bolt it all. Bolted the rear rotor on the hub first, then the front rotor to the rear. The CK2510 steps out just enough where you have to attach the rear rotor to the hub. The front rotor won't clear. The diameter of the rotors are 13", which fit perfectly inside the rim. Total weight 82lbs, 41lbs per wheel. Not a lot, but it certainly helps, especially since I filled the rear tires with windshield washer fluid.

All in all I'm very happy with the changes. Easier to control the loader, easier to hook thinks up, and much more stable and increased traction with the added weight.

Plowboy-Lurch · Apr 3, 2020

Vernorz said:
Long time lurker first time poster. I've owned a CK2510 for about 3 years now, so I thought I'd show some of the changes I've made. Maybe some of you will find it helpful, especially if you own a CK2510. Hopefully the pictures show up.

1) Made a new Loader Joystick as the factory one was way to short in my opinion. I have much more control with the new longer one. I took 1/2" rod and threaded the valve end, which is M14x1.5.

2) Made telescoping stabilizers. I'd have to measure everything to see what I used. It was the first thing I did when I bought the tractor.

3) Rear Wheel Weights: The rear wheels of the CK2510 have the same bolt pattern as a 6 lug chevy truck. I took the rear brake rotors from a Chevy 1500, drill 2 holes in the rotors, and welded 3/8 nuts on the back side. I then took the front rotors from a Chevy 1500 and drill 2 holes and bolted them to the rear rotors. I bought some longer bolts, M16x45mm Class 10.9 to bolt it all. Bolted the rear rotor on the hub first, then the front rotor to the rear. The CK2510 steps out just enough where you have to attach the rear rotor to the hub. The front rotor won't clear. The diameter of the rotors are 13", which fit perfectly inside the rim. Total weight 82lbs, 41lbs per wheel. Not a lot, but it certainly helps, especially since I filled the rear tires with windshield washer fluid.

All in all I'm very happy with the changes. Easier to control the loader, easier to hook thinks up, and much more stable and increased traction with the added weight.
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I like! Can you elaborate on how you made the stabilizers?

Vernorz · Apr 5, 2020

For the stabilizers, I took 1" x 1/16 wall square tubing from the hardware store that had holes predrilled on all sides. I used this for the outer tube. For the inner tube, i took 3/4" square bar and inserted it into the outer tube, shimmed on the sides to center it in the larger tube, lined everything up and drilled a bunch of holes in the 3/4" square bar. For the slots on the outer tube, I took a dremel and just cut the material between 3 of the holes to make a slot. I would probably only use two holes if I do it again, as there is a little to much movement with a slot so large. For the end that attaches to the tractor, I used a section of 1"x 3/16 flat bar. I heated it up with a torch and bent it around the pin that was used with the original chains. I cut a short length of 1 1/2" square tube cut one side off and welded it to the outer tube on the end that end that attaches to the tractor, drilled a hole, dropped a pin through for a pivot. For the end that attaches to the lower link, I used a section of rectangular tube, cut in half length wise, and drilled a hole to drop a pin through the stabilizer, and a another hole to bolt it to the lower link. I can't remember the size of tube I used. For the pin to lock the stabilizer I just used a 1/4" Grade 8 bolt. I have a small 5 tooth cultivator, a 4' disc harrow, a 1 bottom plow, a 300lb counter weight, and a Wallenstein BXM32 chipper. 3 years in nothing has bent or broken on the stabilizers. Hopefully the pictures will show what I described.

Everhard · Apr 22, 2020

Love the stabilizers, I keeps saying I'm going to make them. The chains are such a pain - the most annoying part of swapping implements on the rear!

E.

PhantomOfHeat · Apr 27, 2020

I need to make some stabilizers. I set up my bush hog 2 weeks ago used it for a while later when going up the hill I heard a noise looked back and the bush hog was sidways and the link was hitting the tire. Turns out the link on one side turned its self about 1in out, I did not think it would loosen up like that. So now I check it more often and will most likely add a second stop nut and see if that helps, eventually I will make stabilizers but that will be after I get quick connects for it.