CK30 Rear Wheel Stud Torque Specs?

EldonRC · Nov 4, 2007

I managed to get myself in a mess torquing the rear wheels on after a spacing adjustment.I foolishly went by the torque spec in the "manual" which calls for a whopping 290.7 ft/lbs on the studs at the hub.Of the 12 on both wheels 11 are ok I think.After looking at the metric specs I believe it should be about 200 ft/lbs
while I didn't break the remaining stud it stretched it where it passes thru the hole in the wheel to about 2/3 its size in diameter.Question: Does anyone know what the proper(non-Korean translation) torque should be in ft/lbs for both the hub wheel nuts on the rear as well as the large carriage style bolts that hold the rim to the wheel.Also how much hassle is it to change this stud?Thanks

twigpig · Nov 5, 2007

My shop manual says on page 1-20 for the rear wheel: 284 N-m (29kgf-m, 209.7 lb-ft). It points to the bolts holding the wheel to the axle. So while I did not check my owner's manual for you I'm thinking that there is probably a typo in the owners manual and instead of 290.7 foot pounds it is supposed to be 209.7 foot pounds. I don't think my torque wrench goes that high. If you Google metric conversion you can find a bunch of websites that will convert metric to SAE. The one I tried came up with 209.7something foot pounds for 284 newton meters.

unhappykioti · Nov 5, 2007

Are you sure you read the manual correctly? The manual on my CK20 says 215 NM ( Newton- Meters ) or 160 Foot Pounds. Could you have you have thought that nm was ft/lbs?

EldonRC · Nov 5, 2007

I appreciate the responses very much.When literally converting the metric it does work out to about 200 plus ft/lbs.I took the manual to the dealer today showing him the 290.7 ft/lbs in my manual.He offered to supply any studs this spec damaged.I declined his kind offer as he didn't write the manual and the studs were inexpensive.The mechanic advised me on how to check the other studs for damage.I am disappointed in myself for hastily torquing to a spec clearly unreasonable but beyond this now will have trouble believing anything
in this manual which I have aleady questioned in the past.I am going to attempt to remove the broken stud with an extractor that spins on the stub,Wish me luck. Thanks for the input fellows.

TractorLegend · Nov 6, 2007

stepping up to a 3/4 drive torque wrench can make tightening large studs easier...at a cost however.

RexB · Nov 6, 2007

What a pain... I corrected what specs were in this shop manual that could be found (so far). Although mine says the correct 209ft lb torque for those rear wheel bolts, others were wrong.

Here's a conversion chart to double-check other torques listed in it, as some are wrong...

EldonRC · Nov 6, 2007

I really appreciate the input from all.My CK30 is a 2005 listing the 290.7,and it appears that the manuals listing 209.7 are probably 2006 or 2007 models.The mistake was apparently found in between mine and some of these others.I got the damaged stud out with a cap type extractor that worked like a charm.I replaced one other stud that appeared to possibly have defective threads but the other 10 seemed to be ok.I appreciate the conversion chart Rex.I borrowed a 3/4" torque wrench and called 200 ft/lbs good.It did torque easily to 200.I am now ready to pump the tires with newly installed tubes full of calcium/water.I believe it will be better both for ballast as well as allowing many tasks in 2wd.
The CK30 has a relatively short wheelbase as well as the loader bucket hanging a fair distance out front.I have long believed this compromises optimal traction in 2WD tasks as well as possibly creating a disproportionate load distribution on the front axle when using loader in 4WD.Mercifully the torque mishap was prior to filling the tires .I am thinking of buliding a ballast box of apx 600-700 lbs.I will search the forum to see if anyone has any ideas on this.Thanks folks.

RexB · Nov 7, 2007

Yes mine was with a 2007 Kioti...glad to hear the lugs are TCO'd you fixed that quick.

Here's ballast box ideas from fancy to cheap -- one guy used his weight set.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/11266-rear-weight-box-real-cheap.html

I just filled the tires with windshielf washer fluid (good to about -20F), added about 400lbs. And o'course the heavy BH is always mounted