CK35 Work Lights

[TJP89]

OK, the other night I had reason to be in the woods after dark with the tractor. After hitting a couple of things with the loader (much to their detriment) I realized that even the best headlights in the world can't shine through the loader bucket. I already knew this from reading here, but I had been out before in twilight and thought I could get by. Wrong. So, now I'm looking into rigging lights from (I think) the ROPS, and I'm looking for ideas and suggestions.

I already have a rear facing light next to the SMV sign that's wired into whatever that wire is back there. I'm thinking I can wire whatever else I need into the same place on the same switch as the fuse seems to be big enough. It's an LED currently and I'll stay with those. I'm not drilling into the ROPS, not because I think it will compromise structural integrity, but because if the tractor ever rolls, I don't want to have to deal with the insurance on that account. Welding is not one of my skills either. So I'm thinking of hanging 2 LEDs from the inside of the ROPS from some sort of bracket (U-bolts?), running wiring down the ROPS to the power outlet and switch near the toolbox. I also want this to look halfway decent, if not quite factory looking. Also, I would like the lights to be able to swivel around if possible.

So, how have you guys run wiring down the ROPS so it looks OK, I really don't want to zip-tie it to the ROPS. How have you attached the lights without messing with the ROPS? And what is your switch setup, by the toolbox or on the dash. Finally, are there any other places to mount lights, or am I missing something? And are lights on the ROPS going to give enough illumination forward?

Here is the light I bought before, I like it and plan to get 2 for this project: Amazon.com: OC Gizmo LED Work Light Lamp Off Road High Power ATV Jeep 4x4 Tractor 27W 60 Degree Flood Light: Automotive [/URL]

The link tool doesn't seem to be working for me right now, so you'll have to copy and past. (OK, now it works)

 

[ritcheyvs]

Just a thought on running wires up the ROPS: Home stores (e.g. Lowes) sell wire mold plastic conduit (in several sizes) with double-sided tape designed to attach it to a smooth surface. If that foam tape up to the job, it could be attached with shoe goo. The conduit snaps open to install or remove wires and it can be painted, if desired. I would think such conduit would protect the wires better than just using zip ties.

 

[TJP89]

Just a thought on running wires up the ROPS: Home stores (e.g. Lowes) sell wire mold plastic conduit (in several sizes) with double-sided tape designed to attach it to a smooth surface. If that foam tape up to the job, it could be attached with shoe goo. The conduit snaps open to install or remove wires and it can be painted, if desired. I would think such conduit would protect the wires better than just using zip ties.

I'll have to look into that, although another factor is the ROPS needs to fold with this on, is the conduit flexible? I agree on the protection though.

 

[ritcheyvs]

... another factor is the ROPS needs to fold with this on, is the conduit flexible? ...

Well, it's bendable, up to a point. Flexible: not really. You would need to leave an "air gap" at the hinge. I think the correct term is "plastic wire channel" and it comes in several sizes.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Tractor Supply Co. - Enjoy searching:wire conduit

I used it here. I just left a little slack right over the folding point of the ROPS. I used zip ties to fasten it to the ROPS. It works fine for me.

The mount is a small angle iron mounted to the u-bolt bracket that holds the canopy on.

 

[jimmyj]

I used the same stuff as oldpilgrim. Around here it's called a wire loom in the stores. Whatever the name is you just run your wires inside it to protect them. I used zip ties to attach it to the ROPS as my lights are up at the top (on the underside of the ROPS top crossbar). Makes a HUGE difference.

 

[TJP89]

OK, I think I'll run the wiring in that conduit, up the ROPS, and just run power from one to the other. I want to put a rocker switch on the dash in the hole next to the headlight/signal lamp switch. This hole is covered by a rubber cut out, and I'm planning to cut a hole in it, and pop the switch in. I'll run power from the same wires I have my lamp plugged into currently. So, am I on the right track? Should I put some sort of sealant around my switch? If so, any suggestions? Will the fuse handle three 27W lamps plus whatever else is on there (I think it will, but the diagram is unclear)? What gauge wire seems to work best with this tractor?

 

[TJP89]

Well, I ordered the parts today. I'll have 2 lights hanging from the underside of the ROPS and the one light where it currently is next to the toolbox. All 3 will be controlled by a switch on the dash. I'll piggyback the wiring to the switch along the power cable that supplies power to the rear of the tractor, and run wiring up the ROPS in a flexible conduit. Hopefully it will work. Parts should be in beginning of next week, and I'll post back with the results.

 

[N2DFire]

If you do some snooping thru the Customizing Forum - adding LED lights is a pretty hot upgrade. Some of the slicker installs I have seen have used "Click Bond" fasteners for a No Drill mounting ( Click Bond, Inc. ) Also +1 for the black wire loom. I use that for just about everything as it keeps wires neat and protected. Looking forward to see what you come up with as I have been thinking about doing this myself.

 

[TJP89]

My parts came yesterday, but the U-bolts were too thick to go through the plates and light brackets, so I have to get new ones in town today. I did wire in my switch on the dash and hooked it up to the current light. The switch looks good and fits tight, the wiring was a pain to run, but its out to the way now. I actually pulled the seat to run the wiring more easily, 8 bolts, on and off no problem. I also ran the wiring up the ROPS and tied it into place, that looks OK, but I'll work on it. I should get the lights mounted tonight. Pics will follow. Just hope I don't blow a fuse.