CK3510 (2018) loader & quick attach questions

Freep · May 16, 2019

Hello, TBN,

I have some questions about the loader on my CK3510 and am hoping for some input.

First, I've noticed recently after using for the first time this year, that the float position is a little stiff to back out of. It can be done, and I've been doing it, but it seems like I have to use a bit more force than I should to get it back into the normal 8-direction joystick range. I was hoping that with use it would loosen up, but it has not. The loader is fairly well greased. It is a new-ish tractor and I haven't used float much, but is this normal? Is there something I should check?

Next, does anyone have any experience with fitting Titan quick attach attachments (pallet forks, especially) on the KL 4030 loader? I know SSQA is supposed to be universal, but I have also heard that Titan attachments have had fit issues in the past on some tractors. Titan's forks seem to hit a sweet spot in terms of features, weight, capacity, and price, but they still need to fit! I am not a welder, and fixing defects would be a hassle for me, so I wonder if recent purchases by Kioti-owners have turned out well.

On a related note, I would like to purchase pallet forks so that I can carry water-filled IBC totes a short (and fairly flat) distance. Given the 1800/3500lbs lift/breakout ratings, assuming 1000lbs of ballast and 300lb forks, do you think I can possibly pick up a full tote (2500 lbs) about 6in. off the ground and carefully move it? Or will I need to transport partial loads to keep it under 1800lbs total? I understand the theory of different between lift capacity and breakout force, but I don't quite have a sense for how much weight I can lift just a few inches off the ground and carefully move.

Thanks for considering!

blkqi · May 16, 2019

I use Titan's UA fork plate with the KL4030. It works great. I would say it fits just about as good as the bucket it came with.

N2DFire · May 17, 2019

There is supposed to be a detent (cup, ball, and spring thingy) that keeps you from accidentally pushing all the way into float when you push the stick forward to lower the FEL - unfortunately this detent works in both directions and it takes a little dedicated oomph to pull back through it on the way out. Without being able to feel it for myself and not doing something with a finite measurement like putting a pull weight scale on the joystick - I will take a leap of faith and say you're ok but best bet is to ask your dealer.

I have a set of titan forks (the smaller fork / bale spear combo unit) and I have no problems with it mating to the QA plate on the older KL130 so I can only assume you will be fine as I doubt Kioti or Titan have changed designs very much.

As to your question on the IBC totes, I'm happy to see you've already done the math on the totes. Some people forget just how heavy water is. I know the newer KL4030 loader is stronger than my KL130 but I think you're going to struggle with a full tote.
The thing to remember about the book numbers is that (unless they specifically state otherwise) is that they are measured right at the pivot pins. The further away from the pins you go, the lower the numbers get.

Think about the old construction site gag/challenge of picking up a sledge hammer.
- If you grab it near the head and hold it out at arms length - it's heavy but pretty much doable.
- If you grab it at the end of the handle farthest away from the head and hold it out horizontally it becomes a LOT harder to pick up / hold.

The hammer didn't get any heavier but moving it farther away from the lift point (your hand/wrist) puts a significant about of leverage on the lift point thus increasing the amount of force required.

The same thing happens to the loader. The farther out the load sets, the harder the loader has to work to lift it & you run out of capacity.

Happened to me too. Dry 4x4 hay rolls I can lift no problem - larger 4x5 / 6 or 5x anything and I can't pick them up with the FEL anymore.

My best suggestion would be to start with one about half full - lift & drive it around and then keep filling in increments till you get to the point you're not feeling comfortable or the FEL won't lift.
Just keep in mind the ground you have to cover and how that much weight will change your center of gravity and plan accordingly.

Other than that - be safe & enjoy the new equipment. These little 35 HP units are some real workhorses. Welcome to "The Pack"

VictorW · May 17, 2019

I have a 2004 CK30hst bought in 2005. Taking mine in and out of float became stiff after the first year and especially in Winter. The detent cup and 3 balls as N2DFire mentioned should still be on the loader control valve under the right foot rest where the loader control cables go to. In my case, moisture had entered the cup and just started to corrode the 3 balls and the end of the spool. I took off the cup, two small bolts, and cleaned everything. Packed the cup with lithium grease and when reassembling, put a very thin coat of silicone gasket maker on the mating face of the cup to the loader control valve. While I was there, I did the other cup for the bucket roll. Mine has been good for 12 years now. Not that this is your possible problem but it was on mine and other member's tractors back then. I haven't seen any of the newer tractors, so maybe Kioti has changed the loader control valve with a different design.

Freep · May 17, 2019

TBN has been a great source of information, but these responses exceeded my expectations - many thanks!

I will check out that cup, as mine is just as VictorW says: It seemed easy last summer, and became more difficult after winter.

Thanks to blkqi and N2DFire for the Titan fork and related info. I essentially did the same thing with my current tote 'solution' (loading on a trailer and towing it back and forth with my 'Farm Volvo'). I found I can get it about 2/3 full before the little trailer (rated only for 1500lb when it was new) starts to groan a little. It sounds like I may wind up doing the same thing with my tractor, but it will at least be less hassle.

I am fully sympathetic to the buy American arguments, but in the PNW all the implements are unnecessarily expensive. It seems odd that someone doesn't start bringing full truckloads of attachments from the midwest for resale here. There are so many great attachments sold at reasonable prices there, but then paired with $4-500 shipping costs when shipping individually. Even backing price out of the equation, I keep wondering why more forks don't have the trailer hitch and bale spear options included: In this case Titan not only has the best price, but the most fully featured forks. I wish I could buy locally, but the price here (Seattle) is literally double, and lacks the hitch and spear. It almost makes me want to start a new business...

Speaking of a business, I wonder if some engineering-minded tractor nerd among us could do well with a Kickstarter for creating an app that permits rough computation of capacity changes at various distances using forks, for example. I'd be in for $5, at least.

Diggin It · May 17, 2019

Keep in mind that moving 2000 pounds of liquid is not the same as moving 2000 pounds of solid material. Liquids move easily and can shift your balance suddenly. I prefer to move liquids on a trailer.

Freep · May 17, 2019

Good point! I've been just creeping along to keep the liquid level, but I had considered seeing if my trailer can handle the full tote, pull it with my tractor instead of the Volvo, then unload it with the forks, rather than trying to take it the entire distance with the forks. It's an extra step, but is low risk, and if it permitted me to move a full tote might actually save time in the long run.

Diggin It · May 17, 2019

Whichever way you do it, keep in mind that weight can shift on trailers too causing them to overturn. Low, level and slow.

blkqi · May 17, 2019

Your welcome I didn't notice your location earlier... I'm just down in Carnation. You are welcome to come by and see the forks I have if you want.

I paid a little extra for the USA made Titan forks (not sure, but I think the tines are still imported)... It was just over $600 shipped with excellent (and quick) freight service. The plate is not heavy duty but it suits my needs well. The tines are stout and I have abused them quite a bit with no issues.