Class III belly Guard

   / Class III belly Guard #1  

kcbarnes

Gold Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2001
Messages
313
Location
michigan
Tractor
TC40D,woods M2050 ztr
Well its time, I hope, for a group project. As my TC40D will be spending a lot of time in the michigan woods I can't help but worry about all the exposed equipment under the tractor that is vulnerable to wayward branches and rocks. since I purchased the tractor with a new holland loader (I think it should be illegal to buy one without) I have looked at the subframe mount under the rear half of the tractor and thought it would make a nice easy place to install a guard. I plan on assembling the attachment with some sort of clamp setup so I don't do anything to the structural integrity of the loader subframe. I also would like to have some sort of pin attachment so I can remove it easily for servicing the tractor.I also think I may make it out of expanded metal or something like that so air can circulate and water drain away. Can the boomer braintrust help me?

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by kcbarnes on 10/23/01 08:14 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
   / Class III belly Guard #2  
On my TC45 I used 1/8 solid steel as the expanded would "catch" on everything --- and it cost it good deal more. I mounted it with 6 "J' bolts hooked on the frame then run down through the skid plate and double nutted. Since it doesn't sit level water isn't a problem and 6 nuts shouldn't be that hard to remove for access. I didn't want any quick attach - figgered the brush would discover how to work it off. It was easy to make the skid plate the way I did it - keeping in mind I have no welder - I just cut to fit and bent the front up with a hammer. Then I clamped the plate on the frame and drilled the holes for the bolts. (I didn't trust my ability to measure without making a mistake) I'll try to come up with a drawing - since I don't have a camera - but I ain't no hand at that either.
mike
 
   / Class III belly Guard #3  
Mike,
Dimensions for your steel plate, and then a picture, would be a big help and much appreciated. I tore the throttle cables out from under my TC 35 the other weekend with a log that rolled a branch up under the right deck. Though driveable at idling speed, I will need to replace the cables and the throttle itself on the side of the engine, as the bracket on that is bent too..,..i.e a major pain in the neck. Your solution sounds pretty straightforward and as the frame of both our tractors is the same, I suspect your steel plate would be the right size for me as well....and cheaper than more repairs. The branch jammed in the expanded metal that constitutes the deck, so I second your preference for solid plate.

Chas
 
   / Class III belly Guard #4  
Youngest daughter just had a new baby (and they're at my house) so it'll be 10 days or more before I get to the country again. Unless I go by myself - a good possibility/w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif I don't have any dimensions of the plate here but the attached is a poor representation of what it looks like.
The trigger for me was a branch that jammed itself into the hyd lines going to the FEL disconnects. No damage luckily, but I don't believe in my luck holding forever, thus the skid plate idea. I don't have a welder or any steel working talent whatsoever so I had to go as simple as possible. I am quite certain this can be improved upon, but it may give you the basic idea. I just measured from the front differential to the rear, cut the steel to fit with an angle grinder, then bent the front up (hammered the sh!@#t out of it) to keep it from catching on anything, which was good because I cut the steel a lil' long so bending it took care of that. I also cutout sections for the front tire clearance. The front edges of the tire cutouts are flush with the front edge of the loader mount vertical bar, and the rear edge of the plate is just forward of the rear differential. I wanted to use large bolts to hold this on, but all I had available locally were the L bolts they use to hold bottom plates to concrete slabs. I just bent the L into a J and hooked that on the loader frame rails then ran it down through the skid plate and double nutted it.
"close enough for government work" = something you measure with a micrometer, mark with a piece of chalk, and cut with an ax .... an' i bin a guv'mint worker all my life... and this is one of many of my projects that prove it! anyway - maybe this'll get you going. If santa brings me a camera I just may post a pic then.
mike
 

Attachments

  • 13-77563-plate.jpg
    13-77563-plate.jpg
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   / Class III belly Guard #5  
Thanks for the great explanation and drawing which is very helpful too. Maybe if I paint it NH blue when I am done no one will notice my own lack of precisions metalworking talent.

Got any idea why this is not a standard feature?

Chas
 
   / Class III belly Guard
  • Thread Starter
#6  
This is why I posted this question. mikim, you have talked me into some design revisions.I will try and find a piece of 1/8 or3/16 sheet steel and some type of J bolt attachment. Sometimes I just have to k.i.s.s. (keep it simple stupid).


<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by kcbarnes on 10/24/01 09:45 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
   / Class III belly Guard #7  
KC-
KISS principle has never failed me yet ... pls post your completed project with revisions ... maybe I'll change mine.. I'm always ready for improvement.... despite what my wife might say/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
mike

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by mikim on 10/25/01 08:10 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
   / Class III belly Guard #8  
Chas-
or at least an available option?? I guess they don't think these lil' compacts should be doing things that would require a skid plate ...sure hope I don't prove 'em right.../w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif
mike
 

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