Oil & Fuel Cleaning Contaminated Fuel from Tank? Broken down-urgent info please!

[DiskDoctr]

We have a local supplier who has contaminated offroad diesel tanks. Accent Fuels here in Western PA delivers directly to farm tanks (like mine) and to a retail outlet that also sells offroad diesel.

The last time they filled my tank (which never had any fuel in it but theirs and only filled once before then), it clogged my water filter.

Like an idiot, I assumed the filter was just over used. I removed it and filled the backhoe. About 15 mins later, it stalled. I drained water and stuff out of the filters, put it all back and fought to start it. Same thing.

I drained the main fuel tank plug into a 5 gal bucket and about 1/3 of it was water(!)

I immediately parked everything until I got a new particulate AND water filter in series and never any more troubles.

So now, my 2004 Mahindra 3510 is down. I lent it to a friend. He used the fuel I had in it and like a good friend, filled the tank from the retail outlet I mentioned. About 15 mins later it stalled.

I went out and checked the front fuel filter. Time to change it anyways, I figured. It would run a short bit, then the bowl was only 1/2 full and she stalled.

We installed the new filter, but still not good flow. I think I remember reading there is a filter in the tank???

The tank is full (around 8 gals, I think) and I need to drain it and clean it out. I don't want this junk in my tank.

My manual is useless for this job and it is hard to see under the tank from the 3-pt point of view with the mower on.

I am going out Sun afternoon to look into it.

Can anyone offer a suggestion for the best way to drain and then clean the tank? Does it have a drain on the tank? If so, is there a fitting or something I can attach to a hose to prevent diesel spillage in the field?

Anyone have experience with biocides? Do they work well, or should I just pull the tank and bring it home and clean it with bleach and rinse with kerosene?

I have access to copious amounts of methanol if that would be better?

I'm furious with this supplier. They really should have the contaminated tanks (or tankers) shut down. But they are bigger than me and oil controls the world

I have NEVER, EVER had any fuel or running problems with my 3510. She ALWAYS starts and runs well. I want to get rid of the contamination and only allow fuel supplied by my well-filtered tanks.

Thanks.

- DiskDoctor

 

[skipmarcy]

I've had the tank out of my 4110 before while doing a rear split and there was no drain on it, just the hose going to the front of the tractor - the line that goes to the fuel filter. It's a nipple on the bottom of the tank. I don't think there is any screen or filter inside the tank but I'm not 100% certain of that. Disconnecting the fuel line up front is about the only way to drain it as far as I know, that's what I did to remove the tank that one time. Your fuel gauge sending unit comes out the top and gives you a hole approx. 3" (+/-) diameter to deal with once the tank is out.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Thanks, Skipmarcy.

So the line runs directly from the tank to the filter?

I don't have the tractor here, I have to drive about 30 mins and then to the back 40 at their farm, so trying to get things figured out first

1. The tank goes via a line (no valves or drains) up to the front filter housing
2. Through inbuilt valve on the filter/bowl assembly
3. Through the filter
4. To the fuel pump
5. To the bleeder valve on the injector pump
6. Into the injector pump

Does this sound right?

Any filters or screens in the injector pump assembly, or the tank, or anywhere I didn't think of?

Is there a way to remove the line under the tank without removing the tank? (In case I have to rule out the fuel line blockage or kinking or whatever)

The type of contamination from this company in the past is the same as now. A white-tan pancake batter substance.

In the biodiesel world, that's easy to know and remove with a warm salt water wash and then dry. In the dino world, I'm guessing it is an emulsion of water and (bacteria)? This stuff is *supposed* to be offroad dino diesel, but I'm wondering if they are trying to mess with using some biodiesel and not being careful?

BTW, I haven't run biodiesel in this tractor for more than a year and a half. I stopped making it while working on some other projects. My BD was always VERY dry and clean. You could read newspaper print through a container of it

Oh- And speaking with the fella I loaned it to, he put 5 gals of that fuel in the tractor and it ran about 15-20 mins. I think the tank is something like 8-10 gals, right?

I REALLY, REALLY appreciate any info or advice. I try to help others when I can, but something like this really drives home how valuable this whole site and group is! I need to take more time to pay it forward here...

I'm going this afternoon to work on it, so still some time if anyone has some answers or suggestions :thumbsup:

-DiskDoctr

 

[DiskDoctr]

Solved!

Here are a few tips for anyone else with a similar problem and searching for some tips.

1. Forget about getting to the tank from the rear. After removing several brackets and such, found the fuel outlet comes out at an angle at the bottom, almost up against the shield right behind the seat.

2. Flip the seat forward, remove the tops of the lift and draft controls and 4wd shifter and remove the bolt to remove the remote hydraulic lever. Remove the tin cover for the 4wd shifting assembly and lift and turn the hydraulics side tin cover. (It has an electrical limit switch underneath that would have to be disconnected to remove it. Turning it is fine instead)

3. Remove the metal shielding plate that tucks under the cross frame on top of the tank, under the canopy. It has a couple bolts on top and matching bolts on bottom. The top bolts are just a bit longer than the bottom ones (reassembly note)

4. You will see the rubber line attached to the tank outlet at the bottom center. It uses a small phillips for the hose clamp. Pop it off and let some fuel run out to clear the tank. Re-attach the line.

5. The fuel line runs *continuously without breaks* to the passenger side of the fuel filter housing, without any breaks. Do a general inspection to see if any sticks broke or kinked lines, etc. There is one point I checked in particular: Where the two lines run under the radiator and near a frame joint. It was fine.

6. The filter housing is in an odd position, making it difficult to access the lines. Remove the 10mm bolt that goes all the way through it (horizontally) and mounts it to the frame. Now you can move the housing around and easily access the hose clamps and connections.

7. Remove the line on the passenger side, this is the supply line. It should flow freely, but slowly when the tractor is level. Let it run a little to clear the line. I let it run while I removed and worked on the filter head.

8. The filter head has an inbuilt valve. When pointed down the fuel flows to the filter (hole in the middle, where the sediment bowl attaches). When the valve handle is turned horizontally, it bypasses the filter *in a restricted manner*

9. Inspect the supply side and use a pick to remove any gunk. Turn the valve to the down position and blow through the filter opening (middle hole- yes the filter and bowl are removed). Be sure to close your eyes, as the 'smooshed up earthworm consistency gunk' will likely fly out and land on your right shoulder. Yum...:licking: Blow through all the openings with the valve in all positions. I *think* the valve in the up position is the same as down. It certainly is NOT off

10. Reattach the lines to the filter head and remount the filter. Attach a new filter and loosely attach the bowl. Leave the lever in the down position to fill. It will help if you fill the bowl most of the way first, else it may take a long time to fill and the fuel likes to run down the outside of the bowl. Ask me how I know. Once full, put the valve horizontal for this initial startup.

11. Once the bowl is filled, go to the injector pump on the passenger side, about mid tractor. You will see the fuel pump (square mount with a raised round circle) and just above that- under the side of the hood, you have to look up under or reach up under it- you will find the air bleeder valve. Turn it left a bit until it stops, maybe 2-3 turns.

12. Be sure to use your glow plugs, then crank the ignition while pumping the foot throttle. It may take a bit to start. You'll know you are close when the engine starts turning over faster. Limit your starts to about 30 sec attempts to save the starter. It may take 3 or 4 attempts with the throttle to the floor when it gets very close. Some white smoke and she's alive!

13. After the engine is running smoothly for about 2 minutes and while it is running at about 1/2 throttle, close the bleeder valve on the injector pump by turning the knob all the way to the right until it stops.

14. After about another 2 mins, reset the valve on the filter assembly to the down (normal) running position. You may notice a slight increase in rpms at this point. Make sure the sediment bowl nut is hand tight.

15. Let it run about 5-10 mins, just to be sure all is well. You may notice a small bit of air at the top of the filter inside the bowl. This is fine. As long as the level doesn't drop to about half or so after running a while.

16. Pick up your tools, rinse the diesel out of your mouth, and go home.

Hope this helps!

- DiskDoctor

 

[LBrown59]

We have a local supplier who has contaminated off road diesel tanks.
***Accent Fuels here in Western PA delivers directly to farm tanks (like mine) and to a retail outlet that also sells offroad diesel.
The last time they filled my tank (which never had any fuel in it but theirs and only filled once before then), it clogged my water filter.
Like an idiot, I assumed the filter was just over used.
1*I removed it and filled the backhoe. About 15 mins later, it stalled. I drained water and stuff out of the filters, put it all back and fought to start it. Same thing.
1/3 0f it was water
2*I immediately parked everything until I got a new particulate AND water filter in series and never any more troubles.
So now, my 2004 Mahindra 3510 is down. I lent it to a friend. He used the fuel I had in it and like a good friend, 3*filled the tank from the retail outlet I mentioned. About 15 mins later it stalled.
I went out and checked the front fuel filter. Time to change it anyways, I figured. It would run a short bit, then the bowl was only 1/2 full and she stalled.
4*We installed the new filter, but still not good flow. I think I remember reading there is a filter in the tank???
The tank is full (around 8 gals, I think) and I need to drain it and clean it out.
5*I don't want this junk in my tank.
6*I'm furious with this supplier. They really should have the contaminated tanks (or tankers) shut down. But they are bigger than me and oil controls the world
7* I want to get rid of the contamination and only allow fuel supplied by my well-filtered tanks.

***Kinda blows the theory that buying from a service station means fresh trouble free fuel.
1*Oops. musta been a Duh moment putting contaminated fuel in an unfiltered tractor.
2*Filtering the feuel after it enters the tractors tank can be a bilt too late as you just discovered.
3*I never fill my tractor directly from a station or a supplier.
4*But the water is still in the tractor tank correct ?
5*Don't blame you but the fuel still needs filtered before you put it in the tractor.
6*True but you still should filter all fuel before you put it in the tractor.
7*I'm not sure i understand this comment ; how did the fuel become contaminated after it left your well-filtered tanks ? :confused2:

There is no way my fuel could contain water by the time it got to my tractor tank because this rig filters the fuel 3 times before it ever goes into the tractor tank.

 

[DiskDoctr]

***Kinda blows the theory that buying from a service station means fresh trouble free fuel.
1*Oops. musta been a Duh moment putting contaminated fuel in an unfiltered tractor.
2*Filtering the feuel after it enters the tractors tank can be a bilt too late as you just discovered.
3*I never fill my tractor directly from a station or a supplier.
4*But the water is still in the tractor tank correct ?
5*Don't blame you but the fuel still needs filtered before you put it in the tractor.
6*True but you still should filter all fuel before you put it in the tractor.
7*I'm not sure i understand this comment ; how did the fuel become contaminated after it left your well-filtered tanks ? :confused2:

There is no way my fuel could contain water by the time it got to my tractor tank because this rig filters the fuel 3 times before it ever goes into the tractor tank.

I'm with you. I only put filtered fuel in my equipment, from my filtered tank. Problem was I lent it to a friend who was being a 'good friend' and 'keeping it full.' He filled it from the local "contamination station" :ashamed:

I told him not to put fuel in it and he should be able to run it several days on a tank. If I thought he was going to add fuel to it, I would have sent my Mr. Filter with him. It filters out water and debris quite nicely.

It was an honest mistake on his part, as he had no reason to expect a fuel station was going to provide contaminated fuel.

Now, as for the tank condition now...

No, it shouldn't have water in it, as water settles to the bottom and I drained a bit from the bottom of the tank.

I think you make a very good point and I agree: ALWAYS FILTER YOUR FUEL!

If you get tired reading my long post about how to clear up a fuel contamination, just think how much time you can save if you learn from my mistake

Thanks to all for the input and info.