Cleaning Your Power Trac

[Frank Sorbello]

My next step, with my 422 is to clean it. It is literally caked with oil and dirt throughout, especially by the foot pedals. I don't think spraying degreaser all over it and hosing it off will cut it. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Frank

 

[MossRoad]

First, remove the access covers to the center tunnel, the plate on the front of the steering column and open the engin bay cover.
Second, put a large trash bag over the seat to keep it dry. A draw string leaf bag works great.
Third, remove anything large like sticks, twigs, leaves, etc... by hand.
Fourth, use a leaf blower to blow out as much as you can from everywhere.
Fifth, use a plastic putty knife to scrape the years of dirt and crud.
Sixth, use Simple Green Cleaner (WallMart, hardware stores, etc... carry it) mixed 50/50 with water in a spray bottle and soak it down. Give the greasy areas a real good soaking. Wait 5-10 minutes and hose it off.
Repeat steps 5 and 6 if needed.

Blow it off with the leaf blower when done.
Pay extra attention to the areas in the engine bay that you cannot see easily. Dirt and leaves tend to pile up under the engine and a leaf blower tends to blow it to the opposite end you are working on, but not out of the tub all-together. You have to dig it out by hand.
Then its time to greas all the fittings, check your center nut for tightness on the bottom of the lower articulation joint, grease the treadle if yours is a cable operated treadle, grease the ball joints, FEL joints, etc... with super lube spray.
If you don't have an owner's manual, call Terry at Power Trac and see if you can get one. It shows the lube points.

 

[ponytug]

Great suggestions. I have a slight variant on it, with one important difference.

1. Unbolt and remove all the covers
2. (The trash bag over the seat is a great idea- never thought of it Thanks MR!)
3. Remove as much as possible by hand, especially around the hoses and wheel motor housings
4. **Use compressed air to blow out the hydraulic cooler and get it clean.**
5. Spray a 50/50 solution of Dawn and water on the caked on dirt/oil. (I find it works better than Simple Green with our water. YMMV)
6. Power wash everything, except the engine itself, but including the hydraulic oil cooler.
7. (For the diesels, blow out the diesel oil cooler with compressed air & at least once a year with detergent and water as well)
8. Use more compressed air to get anything electrical, e.g. the starter dry.

I like the suggestion of using a leaf blower. I will try it next time. Kudos again to MR.

All the best,

Peter

First, remove the access covers to the center tunnel, the plate on the front of the steering column and open the engin bay cover.
Second, put a large trash bag over the seat to keep it dry. A draw string leaf bag works great.
Third, remove anything large like sticks, twigs, leaves, etc... by hand.
Fourth, use a leaf blower to blow out as much as you can from everywhere.
Fifth, use a plastic putty knife to scrape the years of dirt and crud.
Sixth, use Simple Green Cleaner (WallMart, hardware stores, etc... carry it) mixed 50/50 with water in a spray bottle and soak it down. Give the greasy areas a real good soaking. Wait 5-10 minutes and hose it off.
Repeat steps 5 and 6 if needed.

Blow it off with the leaf blower when done.
Pay extra attention to the areas in the engine bay that you cannot see easily. Dirt and leaves tend to pile up under the engine and a leaf blower tends to blow it to the opposite end you are working on, but not out of the tub all-together. You have to dig it out by hand.
Then its time to greas all the fittings, check your center nut for tightness on the bottom of the lower articulation joint, grease the treadle if yours is a cable operated treadle, grease the ball joints, FEL joints, etc... with super lube spray.
If you don't have an owner's manual, call Terry at Power Trac and see if you can get one. It shows the lube points.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I don't bother to be honest. Figure the oil is a better protector than paint ;-)

Actually I don't remove a lot of the covers anymore except for a yearly inspection and cleaning. Normal is powerwash the outside and powerwash the tub.

One thing no one said here is where. PT's are notorious for leaking oil. Just a given as far as I am concerned with a Hydraulic tractor. You do not want to do this where anyone walks, wife will notice, your front yard. You are going to have a pile of oily goo and once it is on the ground, it is there to stay. Do all this off to the side somewhere.

Soaps have changed in the past 2 years due to EPA demands. We used to use Tide laundry soap as it was an amazing de-greaser. Better than dish soap and a heck of a lot cheaper. But now, like other soaps, not so good.

 

[MossRoad]

Forgot about blowing out the hydraulic cooler. Thanks.

 

[ponytug]

Carl,

I have to admit that part of the precleaning, or servicing, is wiping up any spilled oil and putting that into the waste oil stream. Since we are on a well, I try really hard not to let oil get onto the ground, besides, it is the right thing to do. Mostly, my leaks are small, because I keep things clean to enable me to see them when they are still small. Last weekend, I did have a small leak due to a blown oring. (On the "P" port for you 1445 owners. Apparently, it needs to be changed regularly. When I have time, I plan to look for a copper or aluminum replacement.)

Yes, detergents are undergoing removal of even more phosphate (especially dishwasher detergents). Personally, the only thing I use Dawn for is cleaning the PT, because it is so good at lifting oil. On dishes I use Costco. I use Simple Green on other things.

You want to be careful of using clothes detergents on paint. Many of them have enzyme (protease) concentrations that are high enough to depolymerize paint. We have an "eco" brand on the shelf that I think specified the wrong enzyme and the detergent digests cellulose like there is no tomorrow. I spilled some on a cotton/polyester shirt and washed it. The shirt came out with a spill pattern minus all the cotton, but leaving the polyester. I don't want to throw it out, but I also don't know what to use it for.

I think because we all use the tractors a little differently, I think the cleaning needs do need some individual variations.

All the best,

Peter

I don't bother to be honest. Figure the oil is a better protector than paint ;-)

Actually I don't remove a lot of the covers anymore except for a yearly inspection and cleaning. Normal is powerwash the outside and powerwash the tub.

One thing no one said here is where. PT's are notorious for leaking oil. Just a given as far as I am concerned with a Hydraulic tractor. You do not want to do this where anyone walks, wife will notice, your front yard. You are going to have a pile of oily goo and once it is on the ground, it is there to stay. Do all this off to the side somewhere.

Soaps have changed in the past 2 years due to EPA demands. We used to use Tide laundry soap as it was an amazing de-greaser. Better than dish soap and a heck of a lot cheaper. But now, like other soaps, not so good.

 

[ponytug]

I'm sure that you do it.

Personally, I find writing SOPs tough; it is so hard not to over look the "well of course you do THAT.". I think that the military calls it soldier proofing.

All the best,

Peter

Forgot about blowing out the hydraulic cooler. Thanks.

 

[MuncyBob]

I will add that once it's cleaned you may want to use a leaf blower on it after each use such a grass cutting, hauling dirt/sawdust, etc.
I do this and it really helps to keep the engine area and cooler clean. Something I do need to start doing is washing her more than once a year, man what a chore when it goes that long!

 

[SpringHollow]

I wash it off with a garden hose first, then I use an engine cleaner wand from Harbor Freight to spray on something like Simply Green, then i let it sit for a bit and hose it back off. In some spots, i use the engine cleaning wand for greater pressure but not at hydraulic fittings or electronics.

Ken