Clutch Question

[NHmitch]

I am not sure if my clutch is starting to go, or if it just needs adjusting. When I push in the clutch all of the way, sometimes it will grind gears for a second, but not always. I know that they said that it may need adjusted when I bought the tractor, and I lowered the bolt below the clutch pedal as far down as it will go, so the clutch pedal goes down as far as it can. There is also an adjustment bolt under the tractor. Should I try to adjust this part, to see if it helps, since the bolt below the pedal did not make much of a difference. Again, it dosen't always grind, and I only shift from a stopped position. I just don't want to damage my gears, but to change the clutch out completely, you have to split the tractor in half, and disconnect the hydraulic lines, the steering column, and a bunch more stuff, and I really do not want to go there if I don't have to. It sounds very expensive, and I am not set up to do it myself. The clutch never slips. and I don't ever smell anything burning. One it is engaged, it works at full power. Just wondering if anyone knows if this can be adjusted. Thanks,

Mitch

 

[pjbci]

Yes you need to change both pieces. The job itself may seem nightmarish to you but its really not a difficult job. Its fairly easy actually. Use a jack and blocks under one half of tractor a either use a floor jack or chain hoist to roll the other half out. I usually block the rear and roll the front but it really doesnt matter which way you do it. Dont forget to wedge some 2x4s in where the front axle pivots to keep the engine from tilting over once you take the bolts out of the bell housing. If thats your tractor in the pic, take the weights off the front before you start so it doesnt tilt over frontwards.

 

[pjbci]

Am I crazy or did you go back and edit the entire question? Sure you need to try and adjust it first.

 

[284 International]

I have done it on my Ford 1700, a Shibaura built machine several steps larger than the TX1300. It was doable. Mine was a mess because I always buy tractors that look as if they have been in a train wreck on their way to a junkyard.

It took me about 7 hours of labor to do my 1700. I did it all alone, save 20 minutes with a helper when trying to slip the two halves together. I did mine in an unevenly disked field, one of my dumber efforts. :laughing:

For reference, I'm fairly mechanical, and also had a LOT of superb help from several members of this board. I did not have a manual. I would recommend one. A concrete floor, several good jack stands, a couple rolling floor jacks, and some blocks of lumber are essentials, to me.

Bear in mind I've only done one, but have a fairly broad range of experience tinkering with these machines. I've got ten or so of the Japanese compact machines, and all but two were in various degrees of disassembly and were totally inoperable; all work now. I've grown up building motorcycle, car and
boat engines from pieces, and worked building off road race cars for awhile and have built several muscle cars, 4x4s, and so forth.

I mention this only so you can make an informed decision. I think a 6 hour budget is reasonable with a manual, a helper, and all of your parts on hand working on a slab. I had a loader, was alone, and working in disked dirt, on a much larger tractor I didn't have parts for. It's not a race, but you'll be able to better that speed, I imagine.


The basic process is fairly easy, and would be very simple on a concrete floor. There isn't any heavy lifting, the only tough part is getting some of the fasteners underneath the machine if one is mobility impaired.


I would do the entire clutch assembly. Make sure to get a new release bearing, any pilot bearing or bushings needed, etc. There just is no real advantage I perceive in NOT doing everything. A complete kit ensures you will have all the components needed, and it will put the clutch components back to new specifications, and ready for 30 more years of service.

 

[284 International]

You can replace the clutch; don't let fear of that work tempt you to mess up the tractor.

With that said, adjust the clutch if you can. Get 3/4" or so of free travel before the pedal engages anything. There is probably a turnbuckle on the linkage. You will want to check that first, and help everybody else out from your experiences.

 

[NHmitch]

pjbci, I did, sorry, I was trying to save to much work, but I think that I am going to have to change it, Thank you both for the advice, tips, and experience. I guess I have to learn somehow, I am just afraid that I will make a costly mistake. I think to bring this to a dealer, and have them do it, would cost me way more than I would think about spending. I just need to print my manual, get all of the parts together, and some help, because the military rebuilt my shoulders, I cannot lift that much, and just dedicate a day or two to the project. Thanks again, and I am going to try to adjust it, and I will let you know how it goes, Take care,

Mitch

 

[pjbci]

If your clutch isnt slipping then you shouldnt need to replace it. Its more than likely just an adjustment issue. Good luck with it.

 

[JoeBuyer]

My G154 grinds a small amount sometimes when I shift. I don't use mine as much as you use yours so I can't ell you why/when. I just consider it normal. The clutch does not slip.