Clutch repair Jinma 354

   / Clutch repair Jinma 354 #1  

Marlowe

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
313
Location
Goose Creek, S.C.
Tractor
Mitsubishi 1801
I have a pile of dirt to move and the neighbor offered, so I took him up on it. I borrowed his Jinma 354. Nice tractor by the way, and strong as death. When I picked it up I noticed a whining sound that reminded me of a throw out bearing, but it went away as far as I could tell as soon as I went to work. There was this smell though that I kept noticing. At first I thought it was the exhaust. Then I thought maybe the clutch was slipping but it didn't act like that. The brakes weren't dragging but the smell was persistent so I shut it down and took a break. After a half hour or more I fired it back up and the smell was immediately back. It still seemed to be working OK so I went back to hauling dirt. As I was scooping up another bucket load the whine came back for a second or so but now loud and clear. I pushed the clutch in and felt something pop. The tractor stayed in gear and was doing its best to climb the hill. To get it to stop I had to knock it out of gear. Something in the clutch broke for sure, the question is if anyone has changed the clutch and throwout bearing in one of these tractors? I've done it in several cars and trucks. No big deal. I've seen it done on a few tractors. I know the transmission literally holds the tractor together and it splits in the middle. I'm guessing if you have the needed jacks and supports it isn't a big deal. My neighbor says don't worry about it, but you know how that goes. I worry. He's a great guy and I want to do all I can to make it right. Any input?
 
   / Clutch repair Jinma 354 #2  
Yes they break apart in the middle and there could be many possibilities that could be the root cause of the problem.

A POP is something that could be the fingers burnt through when the throughout bearing seized up. Now then the smell is something that could have been the fingers burning on the clutch throughout bearing. This is sort of a common issue with this happening as there is a grease port the most people do not know about on the trough out bearing. no lube in the bearing and they go out eventually.

It will need to have the FEL removed and inspect the clutch and throughout bearing through the side under the FEL mounting bracket. that is the first place to start looking.

Mark
 
   / Clutch repair Jinma 354 #3  
The tractors are split in half at the bell housing to replace the clutch. If you are mechanical and have some jacks,blocks ect.level surface to work on you should be able to do it.We have any parts you may need including a new clutch assembly,bearings,gaskets,ect. We are also willing to help you with any questions.The 354 series tractors used a 10" clutch most of the time,but it's prob. better to get the tractor split to see if you need anything else.We ship the same day,so your only talking about 3-4 days to get the parts,

Let me know if we can help or vsit our website you can see the parts under Parts Center

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales Co.
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
 
   / Clutch repair Jinma 354
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks guys. Great information and just what I was looking for. I find that most jobs aren't nearly as hard as they look once you get started.
 
   / Clutch repair Jinma 354 #5  
proper clutch adjustment and setup is very important and is the 2nd biggest cause fo clutch failure (riding them and the bearing going dry are others.)

Mark
 
   / Clutch repair Jinma 354 #6  
I had to split y tractor for a different problem, and unfortunately had to do it single-handed. Naturally, I'd never split a tractor before and was more than just a little bit intimidated by the concept. Everyone here gave me lots of great encouragement and guidance, thankfully.

To make it easier to get things aligned again for re-assembly I put down a sheet of scrap OSB (could as well have been plywood) and screwed 1x2 runners to it. I then made a low dolly with heavy duty casters that fit exactly between the runners and placed my 12-ton hydraulic jack on that to raise the rear half of the tractor. The front half was chocked in position and raised with a floor jack. When the work was done and it was time to mate the transmission input shaft to the clutch splines it went together almost effortlessly - I had turned a crude wooden clutch pilot tool to get the clutch discs aligned concentrically, and the rear half just rolled up to and into the front half like magic.

I know it wasn't just a lucky fluke, because is quickly realized I'd left out the blasted bellhousing gasket and had to pull it apart again to put that in and it went back again perfectly. Even a blind pig finds an acorn now and then, I guess. (GRIN)

I was astonished at how well that little dolly and track arrangement worked out. If I had to split tractors frequently I'd probably do the same thing but with angle iron track and gate wheels on the dolly.
 
   / Clutch repair Jinma 354 #7  
Where do you get the proper adjustment procedure ?
 

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