clutch ?s jm200 series

mffarmall · Jul 17, 2008

My clutch started to go out a few days ago. Slipping for a few weeks. Read about how to adjust. Opened the service port. Marked the bolts and numbered the bolts. Turned them twice then tightened up the 16mm bolt. Tried to put in into gear and still no go. There does not seem to be any clutch dust, everything looks clean. Please follow my thought process to see if you can see my mistake or not going far enough.

1, numbered bolts making sure to understand the difference between the pto (arms) and main clutch adjustment bolts. And marked the face of each bolt.
2. Loosened the jam 16mm bolt up and turned the 21mm bolt to the right to tighten it two turns. (So I turned it to the top of the plate ) then returned the 16 jam bolt and adjusted the other two. Measured by sticking a pencil in gap and made sure that the other bolts lined up with the smached groove on the pencil.
3. Used Johnstractor adj and opened up the pto arms about 20 mm from disk using same method. Moved the peddle adjustment bolt out about three turns.
4. blocked up and breaks on (before starting project) started it and clutch still grinding and will not go in. I have the hydro shift (leaver like a mower to go forward and reverse).

The manuel that I have talked about adjusting the exterior bolt above the saftey starter button. I think that its just a stopper to keep the clutch from going to far?

mffarmall · Jul 17, 2008

I forgot to add that this is the same engine as most post for jms in here. see pictures

RonMar · Jul 17, 2008

Ok, you said that the clutch was slipping at first, then you said that the end result was grinding gears while trying to engage a gear, which is a symptom of a not fully disengaged clutch.

First off, When you started, was there space between the 3 levers and the throwout bearing all the way in the back? This indicates that the pedal is fully disengaged and allowing the pressure plates to their fully closed(grip) position as allowed by the 3 adjuster bolts at the end of the levers. If there was no space between fingers and throwout, then that might be keeping the clutch partially disengaged and allow it to slip. As you push in on the clutch pedal, the throwout bearing pushes the 3 levers forward, and they lift the rear main pressure plate to release the main clutch disk. As you continue to push the pedal in, at about 1/2 pedal travel, the main pressure plate begins to lift the PTO pressure plate to release it's disk.

I think you turned your 3 main adjuster bolts too far and now you can't lift the main pressure plate far enough to fully disengage the clutch.

They say in the manual that these clutches are setup on a special jig in china and should only be adjusted by a pro. You probably don't have a pro in your back yard, so here is my laymans approach to 200 series clutch adjustment. In your case, since you marked everything, return all the adjustments to their original positions, then:

1. Start at the back and establish that there is approx 1/8" clearance between throwout bearing and the 3 clutch levers/fingers. From full up pedal to full down pedal, there is about 9" of pedal travel. It should take about the first inch or so to take up this 1/8" of freeplay and begin to apply lift force to the 3 main pressure plate lift arms. This gap is important as it keeps the fingers and throwout from wearing out prematurely and insures full clutch engagement. If you don't have this gap(should be the same for all 3 levers/fingers) then that could be why your clutch is slipping. I don't think these levers have any stops. IE, they stop their rearward travel when the pressure plate is fully engaged/bottomed out and gripping the disk. You can try loosening their bolts a little, but if there is that 1/8" gap between levers and throwout, I believe your clutch IS fully engaged, and if it is still slipping, you will most likley have to split the tractor and rebuild/replace the clutch.

2. After the 1/8" gap is taken up during the first inch or so of pedal travel, the remaining 8" of pedal travel is divided in two. At approx 5" of pedal travel from the top or 4" from finger-throwout engagement, the main plate should be fully lifted, and begin to lift the PTO pressure plate. The other three bolts around the clutch circumference between the 3 main lever bolts control this PTO relationship.

Good Luck

mffarmall · Jul 17, 2008

Thank you for the help.

I reset the arms. I am able to get a hack saw blade between the arms and disk. They all seem to be in the same spot. I was turning the pto and main around in my head and saw the arms as the pto. Luckly I'm systematic and could retrace my steps. I remember seeing the arms when I first cracked it open. I had one arm back about 1/4 an inch and one other had some wear on it. I think that the disk moved uneven and pushed the arm out.

But I now have the arms all at same length with a space of 1/16 to 1/8 and I will try to start it again. If that does not work I will let each bolt out 1/2 turn and see where arms are.

Thank you for the help. And your right about the pro thing. It's not that I can't fix things. It's just lack of knowledge of how to see it working.

SPIKER · Jul 17, 2008

farmall:

one thing is that when adjusting ONE item is can and does through other items out of adjustment. for instance when adjusting main disk travel it effects PTO disk travel as well as it is pulled on my the main... also effecting the finger to through out bearing distances... it gets very confusing and knowing that when adjusting you are on opposite sides of the fulcrum means turning bolts other way from what you think you should be doing...

there are several procedures on JOHNS'S site and there is some good pics too. marking every thing with GOOD marks is VERY important. I found turning 1/2 turn at a time was better at making adjustments.

I have some info on johns site that I did a long time ago in case you are wondering how some of the procedures came about..

mark M

mffarmall · Jul 20, 2008

Thanks for the help. I found that 1/2 turns are better also. I figured before I started that the clutch was a strange world with input and out put with a turning spin into two directions. It's like learning to fly in space up and down take on a whole new meaning. But at this point I made all the changes that I could think of. The problem was that the previous owner rode the clutch and created problems with the pto. It's wierd to say but if I broke it I would understand the damage that was made and know better how to fix. Sometimes people run over something while mowing or go down a hill in an unnatural way. And this can create damage in ways that I could never thing of. So it's at the dealer getting fixed under warranty.

greg_g · Jul 20, 2008

Just for clarification - your Chinese tractor has a two stage clutchpack. When pushing in the clutch pedal - the first half of the pedal travel only operates the main drive clutch discs. The PTO discs are engaged the whole while. They disengage during the 2nd half of the pedal travel. So "riding the clutch" will usually only cause premature wear the the main drive friction disc.

//greg//

mffarmall · Nov 28, 2008

Thanks for the help. Turned out that it was the pin that holds the clutch arm. They put a bigger one in and then replaced it again because it broke. It was not me. That is the most important part about it.

greg_g · Nov 28, 2008

When you say "they" presumably you mean a tractor repair shop. It may not have been noticed that the broken pin that came out of the clutch fork may (should) actually have been a pair of nested roll pins. At least that's how it should have left the factory. For example, the main roll pin could be an 8x32 - but have a 5x32 roll pin pushed inside it for reinforcement. Then both pins get driven through the hole as one.

//greg//

mffarmall · Nov 28, 2008

That is what they needed to replace. But it was nice to get into the clutch and look around at it. So if I have to work on it at some point I will be able to do so.