I need help in setting up a plan and presentation.
Our rural Church is looking for a project to help people in the community.
We have several food banks in the towns in the county, and it could be pick if you need.
What is needed? If anyone has experience with or has set up a community garden please let me know all the pitfalls the advantages the disadvantages the requirements etc....
We have the land and water can be plumed to the garden area. Everyone out here has tractors, tools and home gardening experience.
Thanks!
I helped out in an adjoining town 3 years ago.
I am going through the same thing RIGHT NOW - and have been since last summer.
Although not a "church group" we found a church willing to let us use their land.
We still had to get the town's conservation commission OK because it is very close to wetlands.
They don't have jurisdiction outside the buffer zone, but DO have authority to ensure that we are in fact outside the buffer zone.
We are 16 ft clear on one corner, 6 ft clear on another corner.
Testing soil and water (if you use ground water) can lead to complications, i.e. EPA, DEP, whoever all else could descend on the property owners and demand clean-up if the results are considered toxic.
I don't know the details, but I think there are requirements for the test labs to "report" (call in) results on some contaminants that exceed particular levels.
Read this as "Testing soil or water can put a land owner in a whole buncha hurt" Yes, even a Church, there doesn't seem to be an exemption for this.
Lead is persistent and strikes fear in many/most of us when we think of it entering our food chain.
Leaded gas has been gone for 15 or so years, but you will still find high levels of lead near highways.
This seems to be the ONE contaminant that board of health acknowledges to be there and there isn't much you can do about it.
I think whatever the results of testing are you need an agreement document signed by each individual gardener that they have received a copy of the analysis and will take full responsibility for growing whatever they grow there. Some legalspeak about the garden committee not recommending the soil or water as being suitable for growing food crops,,,, on and on.
Pressure treated lumber chemicals will also Getcha )-;
If/when you get through all this;
Around here we need to mark it all out and call dig-safe.
Utility companies have 3 work/business days to respond and mark their lines.
Sub soiling can be a good idea for establishing drainage and turning up the first crop of rocks.
If you have the volunteers for this they can get the medium ones out that you disturb on one pass, then chuck them in the bucket as you make the next pass a couple of feet over.
I looked for the worst of the "tiller killer" rocks while doing this.
A sub soiler with middle buster can also open up a trench for a boundary fence if you plan to bury that as defense against burrowing veggie thieves.
Same routine with roto tilling, churn 'em up, have the volunteers chuck 'em in the bucket as you come alongside on the next pass.
Once they get to raised beds you may find they don't want you to til every year.