Compressor Unloader valve & auto Bleed add on question?

[SPIKER]

Hi All:

Looking to (already partly installed) add a Automatic Drain Valve to my Air Compressor. I put the compressor in this spring and this is it's first winter out in the barn without heat. That being said it is hard to get down to keep it drained out so I bought a automatic bleed valve from HF.

Automatic Compressor Drain Kit

I plumbed it in and was getting ready to install in into the Auto Unloader valve on the compressor (when it shuts off it unloads the pressure off the top of the pump.) This Air that gets DUMPED is/should be re-routed to the auto dump/drain valve to pop it off and bleed out water off bottom of tank.

OK the I.R. Compressor has the S.O. switch installed on top (7.5hp vert 175 PSI) but the BLEED air comes out of a machines small fitting air dispersion hole/spot. see photo (note click photos to see full size pic.)





Is there a DIFFERENT version of the unloader valve that I can install or do I have to disassemble and try and plug on some sort of fitting/air line device to attache to the Automatic Drain Valve???

how the Unloader valve is plumbed into the tank. The 1/4" copper line gets bursts of pressure on every compressor stroke so I can't tie into that as it would blow the drain valve all the time the compressor is running.

Anyone got thoughts or ideas, am I missing something?

thanks

Mark

 

[mbrule]

I cannot help with your question, as I do not know.

I don;t like the idea of the drain being connected to the unloader, because if the drain was to fail, and not allow the unloader to unload, I think you risk damage to the valves. I once blew some of the valve in an old compressor due to a failed check valve on the tank inlet, so the valves saw pressure at start up, I think not unloading might cause the same condition.

 

[petegoud]

I would think a drain should be completely independent of a switch. I've had a automatic drain on my compressor now for 13 years. I no doubt paid more at Grainger than you did at HF, but mine works on an adjustable timer running on a completely different power supply than the compressor. Haven't had a bit of problems with it so far. Might be another case of 'you get what you pay for'.

 

[SPIKER]

I cannot help with your question, as I do not know.

I don;t like the idea of the drain being connected to the unloader, because if the drain was to fail, and not allow the unloader to unload, I think you risk damage to the valves. I once blew some of the valve in an old compressor due to a failed check valve on the tank inlet, so the valves saw pressure at start up, I think not unloading might cause the same condition.

The Drain is a 2 stage air operated valve, when air coming out of the un-loader under pressure pushes to un-seat the drain valve and it blows out water off bottom of tank. it does not prevent the Un-loader from functioning just makes use of the wasted air that bleeds off.

I would think a drain should be completely independent of a switch. I've had a automatic drain on my compressor now for 13 years. I no doubt paid more at Grainger than you did at HF, but mine works on an adjustable timer running on a completely different power supply than the compressor. Haven't had a bit of problems with it so far. Might be another case of 'you get what you pay for'.

Pete, my compressor only RUNS maybe every once and a while. A timer would be wasting lots of air for no need. I run it maybe a few days a month but use it for an hour or two at most. for regular things but sometimes project work it will run for 3 or 4 hours of use in one day. Even having it blow off every time the compressor shuts off (unloader kicking in) it will probably waste a bit of air keeping bottom dry.

Thinking of using some epoxy and a bit of air shock tubing to get it inside the opening but not SEAL it off entirely so the unloader still functions correctly to completely bleed down the valves.

Mark

 

[danktx]

If yours is like the one I just tried to install from HF. It comes with a "T" that is supposed to be inserted into the unloader line. As I understand it the drain valve sees pressure while the compressor is running unseating the drain valve. When the compressor stops the unloader opens and the drain closes.

To have a fall back position, I used the 6mm poly urethane line with "T" that came with the drain valve to replace the aluminum unloader line, lasted one pressure cycle then blew out then blew out then blew out. I went back to the aluminum line. That poly line does not like the heated air generated at the compressor. That may be a problem for you too unless you can install the "T" near the switch. Can you touch the copper line after the compressor has been running for a while without burning your skin? If you can the poly line will likely survive. If not, Advanced Technology Products has tubing available that should withstand the heat. I just can't justify spending $75 bucks to install a $15 drain. My solution was to install a ball valve extended out from under the tank to ease access.

 

[SPIKER]

Danktx:

Plumbing that drain valve that way means it will be blowing off the entire time the compressor is running wasting a LOT of air. The exhaust air from the switch it's self is what it needs so only blows off while bleeding the air down off the head. the copper line receives a pulse on every pump cycle. I pulled the line loose for test and air does indeed pulse out when the line was removed which was a good reason to not use it as you found out. need that fitting in pic in post 1 to figure a connection method.

Mark

 

[crazyal]

The drain I have just uses the pressure to open the first of the double valves and then when the unloader bleeds off the air off the compressor (it's also bleeding air off the drain) the first valve, the one that was closes while the second valve opens. When pressure returns the valve state reverses. Air doesn't come out of the drain anywhere else other than that one line.