Concrete Floor Specifications

   / Concrete Floor Specifications #1  

sros990

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
38
Location
West Virginia
Tractor
JD 990
I would like to have a concrete floor poured for my pole building and would like to know what to specify in terms of:

1. Concrete thickness
2. Concrete compression strength
3. Size of welded wire fabric
4. Thickness of vapor barrier
5. Other

The building is used to store a small tractor (JD990), tractor implements, PU, mower etc.

Thanks
Steve
 
   / Concrete Floor Specifications #2  
OK, I'll go first.

Is the building built yet? If not, then you need footings around the perimiter to support the walls. The depth of these will be area specific, so I can't help you there. Here, we go a foot down and a foot wide. Other places it might have to be several feet deep.

If your building a pole barn and don't need footings, than 4 inches is fine. If your gonna parks some heavy equipment on it, that you would want to go with 6 inches.

I hate wire. Technically it's stronger than rebar, but it has to be centered in the middle of the pour to be effective. Every study I've ever read on it suggests this almost never happens throughout the entire pour. Usually it will end up at the bottom of the pour and provide zero benifit.

What happens is the crew pouring the cement will pick up the wire and pull it up into the mix while walking around on the wire. It's real hard to keep it in the middle of the mud while walking around on it and there's no way to know if it's there once they move on. The only time you realize the wire failed is when you have a crack.

Rebar sits on chairs of some kind. I use plastic because they are cheap and easy to use. Some people use rocks or concrete chairs depending on their area and preference. They hold the rebar in the middle of your mix and it's pretty hard to screw it up this way.

3/8 rebar on 2 ft centers is pretty common for pads. Footings usually need 1/2 inch and should run the entire footing. Depending on the depth of the footing, I run two lines 6 inches above each other with the 3/8 rebar bent down into the footings.

A friend told me that in Florida they are now requireing 5/8 rebar on 12 inch centers!! Hurricanes.

I've never used a vapor barrier. It seems to be fairly common in the Northern States, but rare down here.

More important is your base. Sand is best. If you have to fill, be sure to do it in lifts and get it compacted. If it's not compacted well, it will settle over the years and your foundation will crack and settle. Lots of homes were built like this and the problems they have is something terrible.

No matter what you do, be sure to have a crew who knows what they are doing do it for you. This is not something you want to try to learn how to do yourself. It's backbreaking work that you have to get right the first time!!! Any mistakes and your stuck with it for ever.

Eddie
 
   / Concrete Floor Specifications #3  
Here're the details for my garage slab (see attachment):

24'x 42'
6" thick
3000psi concrete
#5 rebar (2 rows) in the 12" x 12" footers
#4 rebar criss crossed on 24" centers in the slab
Visqueen 10-mil poly vapor barrier
Expansion joints (slab cuts) on 10' centers, both directions
5/8" anchor bolts on 6" centers and no more than 12" from corners.

Cost: $7500

A metal pole barn with 12-ft walls was erected on the slab.
 

Attachments

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   / Concrete Floor Specifications #4  
You didn't give a size of the barn, not that it really matters. You have some good ideas already posted. I owned a Cat 955 dozer and a backhoe when I built by barn and also figured on one day having a heavy motorhome parked in my barn, so I went fairly strong. Here is what I used in my 60'X60' area:

15 mil Vapor Block plastic
#8 rebar crossed and welded on 16" centers
8" of 5000 psi fiber reinforced concrete
12" wide by 36" deep 'footer' around all edges
8 five gallon cans of concrete sealer
cost = I'd rather not discuss /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I think we used about 112 yards of concrete in that part of the barn. I thought it was a waste for all of the expensive (I thought) little thingys that held the rebar up. Also, it was a royal pain to not trip on all the rebar during the pour. The fiber in the concrete made the finish look sort of "fuzzy" for a while until it was worn off the surface.

One thing that took quite a bit of time ahead of the pour was to run all of the plumbing for the floor drains as well as the kitchenette in the office area and the bathroom and shower area. I don't recall the exact amount of time it took, but it seemed like it was almost a week extra to just get all of that plumbing work done that would be under the floor. Be sure to decide if you will ever need any floor drains or other plumbing under the floor before you pour. It's not impossible, but rather difficult and expensive to put those things in after the fact. Good luck!
 
   / Concrete Floor Specifications #5  
Dargo, i'll take a stab at the cost /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I will say $23,000.00
Am I close
 
   / Concrete Floor Specifications #6  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Dargo, i'll take a stab at the cost /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I will say $23,000.00
Am I close )</font>

I ain't talkin'! My wife may read this. We all know that it most likely cost me $5000 or so; right?! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Concrete Floor Specifications #7  
I forgot about taking the quantity discount in consideration which probably applied to your situation /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 

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