Grading controlling box blade height

[MossRoad]

You know how your top link is a solid bar with threaded ends? And you can adjust its length with a wrench by turning the eyes in or out? Well, you take that top link out and replace it with a hydraulic cylinder and connect it to a valve on your tractor (if equipped with spare valves, you may have to add a valve). Then by extending or retracting that cylinder, you change the angle of the implement in relation to the ground. With a box blade, it would make the blade cut more or less aggressively.

It can get kind of expensive, and, well, you still end up with a box blade that's not ideal for driveway maintenance like you describe. I found that my box blade on my old IH2500b was very hard to get a nice level finish on anything. As you know, when the front of the tractor goes over a bump, the box blade digs down, and when the tractor goes into a swale, the box blade lifts up some and dumps part of its load. I kept ended up with wavy areas and it took many, many passes over an area to finally get to level. I no longer need a box blade. If I ever get to the point that I need to do driveway maintenance again, I'll get a land plane, as I linked to in a previous post. I think it's a better tool for the job.

 

[minton]

Okay, I know exactly where you are referring to, I think in the past I have adjusted that sometimes from the seat. If I remember correctly, you have to have
tension off of it in order to make adjustments.

The land plane sounds like a great upgrade...never had one but sounds like what Grader operators have on their equipment, although I've heard
they have many angles of adjustments they can use when grading.

 

[ovrszd]

Okay, I know exactly where you are referring to, I think in the past I have adjusted that sometimes from the seat. If I remember correctly, you have to have
tension off of it in order to make adjustments.

The land plane sounds like a great upgrade...never had one but sounds like what Grader operators have on their equipment, although I've heard
they have many angles of adjustments they can use when grading.

I run a road grader. It's benefit is the blade is between the front tires and rears. When a bump is hit, it tends to level the plane rather than create a bigger bump.

The land plane grader works so well because it lays on the ground, sliding on it's runners. This takes the tractot out of the equation.

If we have clarified "position control" versus "draft control" and are sure which you are using, then your goal is more use and experience. That's what repetitions are for.

 

[MossRoad]

I run a road grader. It's benefit is the blade is between the front tires and rears. When a bump is hit, it tends to level the plane rather than create a bigger bump.

The land plane grader works so well because it lays on the ground, sliding on it's runners. This takes the tractot out of the equation.

If we have clarified "position control" versus "draft control" and are sure which you are using, then your goal is more use and experience. That's what repetitions are for.

And while practice makes perfect in most cases, with a box blade, it takes a ridiculous amount of practice and repitions to make OK. :laughing:

If it's the only tool you have, use it. But its not the ideal tool for that job. I wasn't sad to see mine go when I sold it with my old IH2500b. :thumbsup:

 

[4570Man]

And while practice makes perfect in most cases, with a box blade, it takes a ridiculous amount of practice and repitions to make OK. :laughing:

If it's the only tool you have, use it. But its not the ideal tool for that job. I wasn't sad to see mine go when I sold it with my old IH2500b. :thumbsup:

I use my box blade all the time. My primary use is scraping up the mess from cutting and splitting firewood. It’s still a decent dirt work tool. A lot better than using the front bucket alone. Another plus is added weight.

 

[MossRoad]

Yes, it's a decent tool, however, there's a better tool for driveway maintenance that not only does a better job, but requires less operator input and fewer passes, saving time, wear and tear on the machine and the old operator's joints, too.

 

[oosik]

Well, I might just as well add my $0.02 worth. Fortunately - I use my Rhino 950 rear blade on my driveway. I use the Bush Hog ROBB when cutting/repairing trails out thru the bunch grass & sage brush. I have draft control on the M6040. I've not used it enough to become even mildly proficient. I drop the ROBB down FLAT on the ground. I use the hydraulic top link to adjust the depth of cut as I move forward. I never try to make a deep cut with the ROBB. If I limit the depth of cut to around 2" or less - all goes pretty well.

The advantage of cutting/repairing trails - I follow the natural contour of the land. I AM NOT trying to recontour the world. Whole different story if I were trying to make a dead level trail.

 

[MF RED in MT]

Hey you all,

If you want to modify your box blade and upgrade it to the second best box blade ever, copy this design from a old thread...

Gear Driven Hydraulic Scarifier System on Boxblade

It might be a little to heavy for our scuts...

KC