Convert-A-Flare

[jmerritt1]

Has anybody used Convert-A-Flare fittings before?

I have a situation where I need to extend hydraulics to the rear for hooking up a backhoe. I am wondering if I can cut the green hydraulic tube in the photo below, then use Convert-A-Flare to transition to a standard JIC fitting.

I've never used Convert-A-Flare before. I would assume that the green paint would need to be removed first, but would a convert-A-flare work on this type of metal hydraulic tubing? Any better options? would it be better to bring this piece to a hydraulic shop and have them braze fittings on it?



Of course...all this could be avoided if JD still made the power beyond kit! Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[kennyd]

Wrote in your other thread as well:

Jeff,
Those banjo fittings can be replace with ORB/SAE fittings, so you can connect directly to the tranny case with ORB->JIC adapters and not have to use any swagelocks.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I had to replace some steel lines in my dozer and used them. That was 4 years ago. I have not had any trouble with them. Note that they are longer than a flare fitting. Only a problem if you need a bend tight to the fitting.

Lines leak



Male fitting



Female fitting



New tubes male ends




They are easy to use but what Kenny says may be easier - can't tell from your photo.

gg

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I used thousands of them when working as a pipefitter on industrial plant central lubrication systems. They work great except you have to follow the instructions packed with them to the T. Torque is critical but they make a go/no-go gauge to check by the length of treads left. After the first 100 you get the feel of it and don't need the gauge. They areb the most expensive way to go probably. Swadgelock also makes a compression type fitting for hydraulics.

Ron

 

[Gordon Gould]

These are the fittings I used. You need a nut and a sleeve for the size tubing you have. Then I used a standard JIC male to male to make the tubing male end or a standard JIC male to female swivel to make the female end. Pretty inexpensive. I did it this way so I could assemble the compression joint on the bench and not down in the dozer compartment where there was little room to work or where there may be some side forces on the joint from the adjoining lines when I tighten it. It also gave me a tube I could remove, just like the original, w/o disassembling the compression joint.

Discount Hydraulic Hose

gg

 

[jmerritt1]

Thanks for all the information. It looks like the compression fittings would work. I think I am going to try getting the right ORB/SEA fitting as Kennyd suggests. if that doesn't work out, I'll see if I can get a Covert-A-Flare to work. I have not yet measured the outside diameter of the steel hydraulic line. Hopefully its a standard dimension.

Again, thank you!