Coolant change procedure check for a newbie (or a newfie!)

   / Coolant change procedure check for a newbie (or a newfie!) #1  

Hypernix

Gold Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2004
Messages
267
Location
New Brunswick, Canada
Tractor
John Deere 4110
Hello,

Well it's been a while since I have been here; this place sure has changed!

I'm going to "attempt" changing the coolant in my 4110 this weekend. I already purchased some JD CoolGuard pre-mix coolant.

So far I have read the instructions on the coolant bottle and in my operator manual. The procedure seems to be easy enough for me to follow. The step I'm not sure is the flushing part; On the coolant bottle it says to use tap water to flush the coolant system and run the engine 10 minutes with radiator cap off. In the Operator manual it says NOT to run the engine with water only. Is it standard procedure to run an engine with water only for only 10 minutes just for flushing purpose or should I use a flushing solution instead of tap water?

Thanks!
Hypernix
 
   / Coolant change procedure check for a newbie (or a newfie!) #2  
Hypernix said:
Hello,

In the Operator manual it says NOT to run the engine with water only. Hypernix

I think they mean not to use water only permanently. Flushing should be fine.
Bob
 
   / Coolant change procedure check for a newbie (or a newfie!) #3  
I agree.. flush with water.. run with coolant.

Remember.. they are trying to be idiot proof in the manual.. and if they don't say 'don't run with -only- water.. then some fool will.. then try to sue them when his tractor freezes and say that they -didn't tell him not to do that-..

Ever see those warning lables on lawn mower decks stating not to pick up the deck and use it for things like trimming hedges... makes you wonder how many dumb people are out there missing fingers before those decals had to be put on the mower....

Soundguy
 
   / Coolant change procedure check for a newbie (or a newfie!) #4  
I've a 4010 and bought some Cool Guard, too, and was wondering about some details of doing it that aren't in the manual. The CD has NOTHING on this.

I was wondering about a vent. On both my Tacoma and 240D, I have to open a connection at the top of the engine where the top rad hose goes to vent air off when refilling. Works great when doing this. Had a horrible time changing out the antifreeze on the VW. Couldn't get it out and couldn't get new back in. No vent. You need a vent to by pass the thermostat; thermostat on the VW is at the BOTTOM of the engine. Otherwise, it retards air from getting out that way, which is usually the high point in the engine area. Couldn't figure out how to vent thing on the VW. Will try it again next year when 5 years is up again.

By the way, the JD owner's manual says you can go 3 years on premix stuff. That means the original stuff is good for 3 years. With this in mind, think I'll wait until next spring to do my 4010. Bought it in November 2004, and it had been sitting at the dealers probably most of the summer. Be about 3 years come spring. The VW stuff lasts 5 years. On the Tacoma, they say 3 years. The Benz says 2 years. When I let it go to 3 years on it, I started to get some deposits in the radiator for the first time ever. Did a flush on it when changing the last time. I use the dealer antifreezes on all 3 automobiles. If I didn't, I'd change every year. This is what I did before I could afford to buy the dealer stuff. The Benz antifreeze is beautiful stuff.

Normally, the only flushing I do is when draining only from the radiator. Run water in while it's draining out to flush antifreeze from the engine. Then pour a gallon into the empty radiator. Can't do this with the premix stuff, but can ensure complete drainage by draining both radiator and engine. Wouldn't bother with a flush in that case. Rather leave a tad of the old antifreeze in there rather than some tap water. Tap water can have stuff in it worse than the leftovers of the old antifreeze.

The manual shows the location of the rad and engine drains on the 4010 (probably identical to the 4110). The engine drain one could be pretty close to the oil filter. Haven't located it yet. Could be easier to do it with the filter off.

Ralph
 
   / Coolant change procedure check for a newbie (or a newfie!) #5  
One idiot-proof thing they say in the manual is to always remove the key when getting off the tractor. Geez. Where am I going to put the key? Probably would forget where I put it if I did take it out, too. Then, I'd have to trek back to the garage to get the spare key.

Ralph
 
   / Coolant change procedure check for a newbie (or a newfie!) #6  
RalphVa said:
One idiot-proof thing they say in the manual is to always remove the key when getting off the tractor. Geez. Where am I going to put the key? Probably would forget where I put it if I did take it out, too. Then, I'd have to trek back to the garage to get the spare key.

Ralph

How bout in your pocket:
All of my keys are always in my pocket except when in use.
This way I always know where they are and I always have them when I need them.
 
   / Coolant change procedure check for a newbie (or a newfie!) #7  
LBrown59 said:
All of my keys are always in my pocket except when in use.
This way I always know where they are and I always have them when I need them.

I leave the key in the ignition all the time.
Bob
 
   / Coolant change procedure check for a newbie (or a newfie!) #8  
Is that the pocket with the hole in it??:D
 

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