Coolant Leak 2210D

[Tole]

I have been trying to figure the best way to approach this, maybe you can help me figure it out.

When I rebuilt the engine, during my troubleshooting phase I replaced the head gasket but never fully torqued it down, after the rebuild I reused this gasket and found coolant in the oil. I drained both and replaced the head gasket (knowing that they are single use), did a quick flush and retorqued after heat cycles and still have coolant leaking into the oil.

My best guess is the head gasket even though when I replaced it, I could not find signs of leaking on the gasket likely due to never getting the engine very hot, even a high throttle driving around is hard to get it hot with out a good load on it.

When I first tore down the engine there was an RTV type material around the head gasket.

The only other place the leak could be would be the new sleeves but with the new o-rings and "sealing paint" I find that unlikely, not to mention the last start after sitting a while was hard and blew a lot of white smoke (likely water in the pistons).

I know RTV is not suppose to go on the head, should I reattempt? Should I get a new gasket before RTV?

Should I try to take off the injectors and take off the water pump (both of which have never been removed) and take the head to the shop to square it up? Do I even have to strip it?

Just looking for thoughts here.

Thanks!

 

[bmaverick]

Are there clues in this article?
Blown Head Gasket
or this one
How to Replace a Blown Head Gasket | Yanmar Tractor Store

Hoye also says to use caution about removing the HG. See this here;

All States Ag Parts | Used & New Tractor, Combine & Skid Steer Parts

All States Ag Parts is the leading supplier of tractor, combine, and skid steer parts to North America. Shop for new aftermarket, remanufactured, and used tractor parts.

www.hoyetractor.com

 

[bmaverick]

I have been trying to figure the best way to approach this, maybe you can help me figure it out.

When I rebuilt the engine, during my troubleshooting phase I replaced the head gasket but never fully torqued it down, after the rebuild I reused this gasket and found coolant in the oil. I drained both and replaced the head gasket (knowing that they are single use), did a quick flush and retorqued after heat cycles and still have coolant leaking into the oil.

My best guess is the head gasket even though when I replaced it, I could not find signs of leaking on the gasket likely due to never getting the engine very hot, even a high throttle driving around is hard to get it hot with out a good load on it.

When I first tore down the engine there was an RTV type material around the head gasket.

The only other place the leak could be would be the new sleeves but with the new o-rings and "sealing paint" I find that unlikely, not to mention the last start after sitting a while was hard and blew a lot of white smoke (likely water in the pistons).

I know RTV is not suppose to go on the head, should I reattempt? Should I get a new gasket before RTV?

Should I try to take off the injectors and take off the water pump (both of which have never been removed) and take the head to the shop to square it up? Do I even have to strip it?

Just looking for thoughts here.

Thanks!

Additionally, Holley division has Mr. Gaskets Head Gasket here
Mr. Gasket Head Gaskets

Years back, my son had a Camero V6 with the 3.4L engine. The head gasket blew. (common on these engines). We'll a shop said, they use 2 gaskets with a sprayed adhesive between both before putting on the engine. They never had any customer return with a problem doing it that way. what they used, I have no clue. It worked though really well. The trick is also in the CURE TIME of the adhesive and it has to be rated against temps, liquids, fuels and oils. And in no way was the adhesive placed on the engine. Only between the two gaskets. It was a spray on adhesive, thin layer, not much that is the process. No overkill. This will take up any micro slop and fill in places where it needs. PB&J.

 

[CoyPatton]

While you had the engine apart, did you check both the head and the block for high/low spots? Any irregularities could be preventing a good match between the 3 layers (block, gasket, and head).

 

[Williy]

I have been trying to figure the best way to approach this, maybe you can help me figure it out.

When I rebuilt the engine, during my troubleshooting phase I replaced the head gasket but never fully torqued it down, after the rebuild I reused this gasket and found coolant in the oil. I drained both and replaced the head gasket (knowing that they are single use), did a quick flush and retorqued after heat cycles and still have coolant leaking into the oil.

My best guess is the head gasket even though when I replaced it, I could not find signs of leaking on the gasket likely due to never getting the engine very hot, even a high throttle driving around is hard to get it hot with out a good load on it.

When I first tore down the engine there was an RTV type material around the head gasket.

The only other place the leak could be would be the new sleeves but with the new o-rings and "sealing paint" I find that unlikely, not to mention the last start after sitting a while was hard and blew a lot of white smoke (likely water in the pistons).

I know RTV is not suppose to go on the head, should I reattempt? Should I get a new gasket before RTV?

Should I try to take off the injectors and take off the water pump (both of which have never been removed) and take the head to the shop to square it up? Do I even have to strip it?

Just looking for thoughts here.

Thanks!

is it possible that a head bolt did not seat and your leaking fluid threw
the head bolt? perhaps you can check with a diagram that shows
if a head bolt could do this. This happened to one of my pickups

willy

 

[Tole]

is it possible that a head bolt did not seat and your leaking fluid threw
the head bolt? perhaps you can check with a diagram that shows
if a head bolt could do this. This happened to one of my pickups

willy

I remember cleaning out all the bolt holes, none of the went through.

 

[Tole]

While you had the engine apart, did you check both the head and the block for high/low spots? Any irregularities could be preventing a good match between the 3 layers (block, gasket, and head).

There were some slight scratches, nothing I would consider major, especially for it to be leaking while just sitting. The coolant would get about .5 inch lower/day untill you could not see it past the fins. That's a constant internal drip without being heated up or under pressure, and it's not going on the ground.

 

[bmaverick]

There were some slight scratches, nothing I would consider major, especially for it to be leaking while just sitting. The coolant would get about .5 inch lower/day untill you could not see it past the fins. That's a constant internal drip without being heated up or under pressure, and it's not going on the ground.

IF the leak was from the bolts, Loctite 565 would be an easy answer. This works up to 300F, resistant to oils, fuels and antifreeze. Automotive and Aircraft uses.
LOCTITE 565

Now, should anyone have a bolt or threads with leaking hydraulics, then Loctite 5452 is the answer.
LOCTITE 5452

Both are sealants rather than used as a thread locker.

 

[rScotty]

I think you already know that you are going to have to take off the head, take it to the automotive machine shop, and let them take a couple of passes to get it flat. The more parts you strip off the head, the better job you will get.

Reassembling an engine using the old head gasket and some sort of paint or goo works somewhat sometimes..... maybe less than half the time. But if it doesn't work perfectly, normal engine heat will quickly put enough warp in the head so that the trip to machine shop that you didn't take the first time is now a necessity.

Good news is that by trying you probably didn't ruin anything or cost any more.
When you ask at the shop how much prep work they want you to do, also ask if they would also pressure test or use dyekem to look for leaks/cracks.

Read through Hoye's article on Yanmar head gasket installation (reply #2 above). What he says applies to all head gaskets. And he says it it real well. The part about putting serious craftsmanship into the head bolts and threads is important. Bolts that bottom on crud or have some slight threading problems probably causes as much failure on head gaskets as heat warp. The bolts need to tighten down evenly with the same effort.

The only place I might differ from what Hoye says is about having the torque wrench calibrated. Torque wrenches are rarely off by 10%, and different lubricants on the threads will cause more difference than that.
However, like he says......if you can't turn the head bolts in easily with light wrench torque take them out and wirebrush or run a clean out tap through until the bolts are working smoothly, have bottom clearance, and all feel the same. Now put it together.

Of course this doesn't mean that the head to block seal is causing your leak. But that's where you find almost all the leak problems. This is basic mechanics 101 - most of us old guys have been here before and I bet you have too.....
rScotty

 

[rScotty]

Oh.....about torque wrenches & calibration. If you want a really good reliable and repeatable torque wrench, get the old inexpensive type with a long springy pointer that shows you on a scale how much the handle is bending. They are actually superior to the fancy high dollar "dial-up friction break-away types".