AHNC
Gold Member
I am in the...past middle (?) of a re-model. It just will not end. Anyway, we have this great view out to the NW and prior to the project the view was from the laundry room. We remodeled and pushed the back out. There is a trap door to a small (10x15') basement. There is no possible alternative to this access point. Having opened up the floor plan this trapdoor is about plumb in the middle of the main traffic area. It measures 36.5x75.5.
I have my idea on how to make this a pretty smooth door, but would like your ideas. One long side of this door is about 6" off the pantry wall. Initially I intended to run a cable off a small winch to handle this. In conversation with our best guy on the job he suggested a "counterweighted pivot" for the opener. A word about my best guy. He's been a carpenter/framer for about 40 yrs. I've worked with the crew when I wasn't traveling on business. I'm a fair hand, but it is such a pleasure to work with a guy like this. By the time I see an issue, and there have been many, he is all ready two or three steps into the solution. It is best not to question. Just watch and learn as well as laugh. We have quite a crew. 66, 65 (me), 59 and 57 yes old. We are working the **** out of the 57 yr old.
Anyway, I have some 2' channel with 1" flange. I'm looking to make a channel frame with cross members, lay in a base of 3/4 plywood and finish the top with 2 1/4" rift and qtr sawn white oak flooring. There will be a picture frame of oak concealing the channel iron, so only the oak will show at the top. I'm fix in to put a piece of 1" pipe the length of the door. I haven't figured how far from the long edge to put the pivot. Probably 6-8" from one end. On the pivot side I'll install some 4x6x1/4" tube, the length of the door, steel post I have left over from other structural work I did. The 1" pipe will probably sit below the door on a flange I'll cut. With the 4x6 tube I can add weight with bird shot of lead or even a hanging counterweight to trim the balance. I will need a lock set or pin type lock for this. The basement isn't accessed very often, so a mechanical bolt or recessed eye ring type lock would do. That's what I'm thinking. Any ideas?
I have my idea on how to make this a pretty smooth door, but would like your ideas. One long side of this door is about 6" off the pantry wall. Initially I intended to run a cable off a small winch to handle this. In conversation with our best guy on the job he suggested a "counterweighted pivot" for the opener. A word about my best guy. He's been a carpenter/framer for about 40 yrs. I've worked with the crew when I wasn't traveling on business. I'm a fair hand, but it is such a pleasure to work with a guy like this. By the time I see an issue, and there have been many, he is all ready two or three steps into the solution. It is best not to question. Just watch and learn as well as laugh. We have quite a crew. 66, 65 (me), 59 and 57 yes old. We are working the **** out of the 57 yr old.
Anyway, I have some 2' channel with 1" flange. I'm looking to make a channel frame with cross members, lay in a base of 3/4 plywood and finish the top with 2 1/4" rift and qtr sawn white oak flooring. There will be a picture frame of oak concealing the channel iron, so only the oak will show at the top. I'm fix in to put a piece of 1" pipe the length of the door. I haven't figured how far from the long edge to put the pivot. Probably 6-8" from one end. On the pivot side I'll install some 4x6x1/4" tube, the length of the door, steel post I have left over from other structural work I did. The 1" pipe will probably sit below the door on a flange I'll cut. With the 4x6 tube I can add weight with bird shot of lead or even a hanging counterweight to trim the balance. I will need a lock set or pin type lock for this. The basement isn't accessed very often, so a mechanical bolt or recessed eye ring type lock would do. That's what I'm thinking. Any ideas?
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