Country Manufacturing Wagon Repairs/Improvements

   / Country Manufacturing Wagon Repairs/Improvements
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Here’s where I begin to have my doubts/question my design. Going against all of MAD’s advice about channel vs. tubing, I used 3” x 2” x .12” tubing for the drawbar. This shows the tractor end. I think my attachment brackets are sufficient; I cut them out of some 6” x 6” x 3/8” angle I had hanging around.
 

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   / Country Manufacturing Wagon Repairs/Improvements
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Here is the wagon end, again the tabs are made out of 3/8” which should be beefy enough. I am questioning the tubing; I suspect I’ll be at my brother-in-law’s machine shop until late another night in the near future. I used what I had, which may not be enough, time will tell.
 

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   / Country Manufacturing Wagon Repairs/Improvements #13  
The ends of the drawbar that you made of 3/8" should be strong enough. I make all of my 3pt top link tower ends from 2" x 3/8" flat bar. However I suggest you use an H pattern with the cross piece welded to the tabs and used to cap the end of the drawbar. Weld the tabs and cross piece first, forming an H, then weld that assembly to the drawbar. That is how all my towers are done and I think it keeps the ends of the tabs from bending and is overall a lot stronger. I usually leave no more than 3" of tab sticking out. It seems to work excellently for top links and should work fine here too.

I was a little surprised to see them use 3" x 4.10 bar channel for the tongue. I really think it's a little too light for 4000 lbs backing up where stress and forces are greatest. 2000 lbs yes, 4000 lbs no. I probably would have gone with 2" x 1/4" or 2.5" x 1/4" square tubing or even a couple pieces of bar channel on edge in a V configuration (which would be much more stable). The professionally designed dump trailer plans I have use 5" x 6.70 bar channel which is over 50% stronger.

You are right about the tractor end of the tongue being a very poor design made even worse by their welding method. That end needs to be an H design like I mentioned above.

I have mods similar to yours that I will be doing once I find the time. As I have said before, these are estate wagons not construction dump wagons and should be treated accordingly. However, they are priced such that with a little effort they can be made into real work horses.
 
   / Country Manufacturing Wagon Repairs/Improvements #14  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was a little surprised to see them use 3" x 4.10 bar channel for the tongue. )</font>

Not to hijack your thread but I thought I would mention that I managed to snap off the front tang for the hydraulic cylinder pin when I went to dump a load of sheep poop the other day.

Admittedly I have given the trailer a good workout, hauling almost 100,000 lbs of sheep manure down to my place from the neighbors ..... but 1" thick plate welded to 3" x .125" thick box tube just isn't good engineering in my book ....

Paul, I'm thinking that this is one place where your admonitions on bar channel vs. box tube would have certainly worked out for the better. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'll try and post some pics of the failure and the repair in another thread when I get a chance.
 
   / Country Manufacturing Wagon Repairs/Improvements #15  
I bought the small CM off-road dump wagon to pull behind my PT-425. The first thing I did was whack off the pin hitch and weld on a 2" ball coupler. I don't see how pin hitches can properly accommodate the twisting forces that come with operating on uneven ground, so I changed it before it could become a problem.
 

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