Oil & Fuel Cracked fuel bowl on DK40se

[coobie]

My advice is, Buy the new style white for a spare (they cost around $10) . That clear bowl will eventually crack.

Thanks,I will check with Michigan Iron & equipment(My Kioti dealer) in the morning for a new one.coobie

 

[IslandTractor]

Pretty much off topic but do you shut the engine off when cleaning the junk out of your screens? I tried leaving the engine running and it just sucked the junk right into the radiator as I removed the screens. Shutting it off isn't nice to a hot engine either so I didn't know what you did.

My clear fuel bowl hasn't cracked yet after 800 hours.

I do shut it off. I had gotten off the tractor because I thought I saw steam, noted that the temp gauge was higher than normal and thought I'd take a look before shutting it off. Like you, I tend to let it idle for a while before shutting it down when hot but I do raise the hood just to let more air in and to make sure none of the hoses is leaking. I then shut it off when the temp starts to come down (it's never kept going up but I suppose I'd just shut it off if that ever happened). I don't take the screens off until the engine is off.

 

[coobie]

I ordered a extra fuel bowl (white)today to have on hand just in case.coobie

 

[IslandTractor]

A quick followup. Rick sent me a new "white" opaque fuel bowl. The switch out is easy and as it turns out did not require bleeding the whole fuel system. The old one obviously screws off (don't lose the spring that holds up the filter or the O ring). Reassembling involves just putting the spring in the bottom, putting the new fuel filter on top, replacing the O ring and then screwing it back in place with the retainer compression ring. After looking at the maintenance manual I decided to load the bowl with fuel first as it would require less cranking. I left about an inch of space at the top. Once the new bowl is secured, just turn the fuel selection switch from off to "air" and crank the engine until the bowl fills completely then switch the selector to "on". At this point I thought I would then need to bleed the system but after having trouble getting the bleeder bolt to move, I just decided to try to start the engine. Started right up and has run fine ever since.

Having done this after my bowl cracked, I'd say that a preventive maintenance switch out at the next fuel filter change would be a good idea for most people. Having the fuel bowl start to leak while in the field could be a pain even if you have an extra back in the shop. Now that is seems bleeding the system is not necessary if you just shut off the filter cock before removing the old one and preloading the new one with fuel (plus a few seconds of "air" setting cranking) make it possible to do the switch without having to bleed the system. It would be a five minute job if I had to do it again.

Now I just need to figure out how to break that 17mm bleeder bolt loose in case I ever do need it. I could only get a short ratchet handle in and that was not enough. The bolt is not very "tall" so using an extension produced enough wobble that the socket kept popping off. I was hesitant to use an impact wrench and don't have the right extensions anyway. Might have to remove the fuel bowl again just to clear up some space to get in a bigger ratchet handle. I'll ask the pros at Wallace Tractor first.

Thanks to Rick and his crew for getting me the replacement bowl so quickly.