Crazy no-start episode

   / Crazy no-start episode #1  

Hay Dude

Epic Contributor
Joined
Aug 28, 2012
Messages
25,608
Location
A Hay Field along the PA/DE border
Tractor
Challenger MT655E, Massey Ferguson 7495, Challenger MT555D, Challenger MT535B Krone 4x4 XC baler, 2-Kubota ZD1211’s, 2020 Ram 5500 Cummins 4x4, IH 7500 4x4 dump truck, Kaufman 35’ tandem 19 ton trailer, Deere CX-15, Pottinger Hay mower, NH wheel rak
Went to grab my Case-IH MX-270 and Krone baler yesterday to move to another location and you guessed it….no start.
Immediately I began looking around and noticed no dash lights, no gauges, nothing.
Tractor would crank, but not start. No puffs from exhaust while cranking, so no fuel either.

Immediately began testing & looking at fuses. I was sitting in cab with key in the on position. I began pulling fuses and looking at them for a blown fuse (no tester with me) key was on.

As I pulled probably the 30th fuse, the gauges, lights and AC fan came to life. Notice I said pulled fuse.
Instinctively, I turned the key and the 8.3L Cummins immediately roared to life.
Now I’m really confused. :unsure:

Looked at the fuse I pulled which allowed everything to once again work and it was the fuse for the rear work lights WTH?
So tractor runs perfectly without the rear work lights fuse installed……

Short circuit in fuse block? Rear light wires touching other wires. Other ideas?
 
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   / Crazy no-start episode #2  
So if you replace the fuse it goes back to a no start condition? If you install the fuse with the engine running it kills the engine? A dead short should blow the fuse. I'd use a test light at the fuse to see if the light circuit is drawing current. I have no idea how the light circuit is related to your no start problem. Maybe robbing power from the ECM? Poor grounds can cause issues.
 
   / Crazy no-start episode #3  
Went to grab my Case-IH MX-270 and Krone baler yesterday to move to another location and you guessed it….no start.
Immediately I began looking around and noticed no dash lights, no gauges, nothing.
Tractor would crank, but not start. No puffs from exhaust while cranking, so no fuel either.

Immediately began testing & looking at fuses. I was sitting in cab with key in the on position. I began pulling fuses and looking at them for a blown fuse (no tester with me) key was on.

As I pulled probably the 30th fuse, the gauges, lights and AC fan came to life. Notice I said pulled fuse.
Instinctively, I turned the key and the 8.3L Cummins immediately roared to life.
Now I’m really confused. :unsure:

Looked at the fuse I pulled which allowed everything to once again work and it was the fuse for the rear work lights WTH?
So tractor runs perfectly without the rear work lights fuse installed……

Short circuit in fuse block? Rear light wires touching other wires. Other ideas?

I would also be checking for possible loose connections and/or wire damage due to rodents.
 
   / Crazy no-start episode #4  
That just doesn't make sense. Are you sure that the fuse it for the rear lights? You didn't mention if you reinstalled the fuse and the issue returned. I assume the lights are controlled by a switch and if the switch was off the problem would be between the fuse that the switch. For that circuit to load down the entire electrical system and not blow the fuse is confusing. Is that fuse possibly close to a main fuse that maybe there's a loose connection on the underside of the fuse box and moving the fuse cause it to make contact? Please keep us undated on this because it's areal gem.
 
   / Crazy no-start episode #5  
Are the rear lights the ONLY thing coming off that fuse?
 
   / Crazy no-start episode
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Are the rear lights the ONLY thing coming off that fuse?
Thats what is on the diagram on the back of the fuse panel cover. But that wouldn’t explain why removing the fuse allows the electrical system to function properly
 
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   / Crazy no-start episode
  • Thread Starter
#9  
   / Crazy no-start episode #10  
Thats what is on the diagram on the back of the fuse panel cover. But that wouldn’t explain why removing the fuse allows the elite electrical system to function properly
While not being familiar with your tractor, I have had experiences in my earlier life with unexpected circuitry where a relay was holding out an interlock but when it was not powered it would clear. One example was a time delay relay around a low oil pressure switch that gave a few seconds for oil pressure to build during startup then drop out leaving the switch as only path. It was intended to shut down in event of low oil pressure but without the TDR you would not be able to start it. Big tractors like yours are probably a little more complex that the CUTS that most of us know and love... 😆
 
   / Crazy no-start episode
  • Thread Starter
#11  
That just doesn't make sense. Are you sure that the fuse it for the rear lights? You didn't mention if you reinstalled the fuse and the issue returned. I assume the lights are controlled by a switch and if the switch was off the problem would be between the fuse that the switch. For that circuit to load down the entire electrical system and not blow the fuse is confusing. Is that fuse possibly close to a main fuse that maybe there's a loose connection on the underside of the fuse box and moving the fuse cause it to make contact? Please keep us undated on this because it's areal gem.
Today, I operated the tractor and got same issue-no electric (except starter and 4 way flashers). Fuse in or fuse out. Fuel pump no work ie, either. So she won’t start.

Beginning to think the act of pulling the 20A rear work lights fuse made something move and it started?

Anyway….Today-nothing. I’m like OMG.
Then I cycled the key a few times and the AC and gauge pods came to life. Thank the Lord it did, cause we had a lot of hay to get baled up.

Haven’t had time to dig into it, but now wondering if key switch or??? something else.
 
   / Crazy no-start episode #14  
Since it's a cab model the ignition switch isn't really exposed to the elements but probably I'd probably try spraying some electrical contact cleaner in the switch. Can"t lose anything but a few dollars and minutes.
 
   / Crazy no-start episode #16  
What are the condition of the batteries? Load test them. In this case it’s probably not the battery unless the tractor has a lot of computer controls. I’ve had weird electrical problems with a weak battery. I agree with others, probably a short somewhere.
 
   / Crazy no-start episode
  • Thread Starter
#17  
What are the condition of the batteries? Load test them. In this case it’s probably not the battery unless the tractor has a lot of computer controls. I’ve had weird electrical problems with a weak battery. I agree with others, probably a short somewhere.
They are new as of 10/21.
However, the batteries died because I left the baler monitor on for 3 days. Most are auto-shut off, but for some odd reason, this one just stays on eternally.

Funny episode on Saturday. My windshield wipers ceased working, front and rear.
We were baling into early evening and it began raining. The front wiper magically started working. Rear wipe no workie

I think I have electrical system gremlins, but I don't get freaked out about accessories not working, unless it’s AC and it’s 100* LOL
 
   / Crazy no-start episode #18  
A dead short should blow the fuse. I'd use a test light at the fuse to see if the light circuit is drawing current.
 
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   / Crazy no-start episode #19  
With the weird seemingly unrelated problems happening I would clean every ground I could find.
 

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