Creosote on Metal Roof

logan97 · Jan 1, 2012

Is There anything I can do to protect my metal roof from being blemished and rusted from creosote running down from my stove pipe ?

MotorSeven · Jan 1, 2012

Yes, but I don't think your going to like the answer but it comes from experience. Your wood is not seasoned and or the wrong type. You should be burning hardwood that has been split and stacked in the dry for 2 years. Anything else produces the creosote build up in your flue/cap which runs back down when hot, or is spread by rain. Remove the screen from the cap and it will help it from clogging which falls out onto the roof. Also you will just have to sweep the flue more often especially if you are burning unseasoned wood(I do and sweep once a month).
I was ahead in firewood until this year and building the house has me burning unseasoned wood.....lots of hissing steam & lots of creosote.

Western · Jan 1, 2012

What M7 said. Another thing you can try is a "sacrificial" piece of tin/roof material where the stain occurs and take it off in the Spring. so the roof colors even with time.

MadJack · Jan 1, 2012

Does your stove have a catalytic combustor and do you have a thermometer on your stove?
I just learned that my stove (most stoves) should be run between 400* and 650*. Any lower produces creosote, any higher wastes wood. Dry wood ( -12% ) produces best BTU's.

Since I replaced my CC and purchased a GOOD thermometer (not the $6 one) my M-bestos chimney produces little if any smoke plus it seems I'm getting more heat with less wood!

Scooby074 · Jan 1, 2012

I agree with the others, its a wood or operation issue.

If your getting that kind of creosote on your roof, imagine your chimney!!

Maybe you should post or read up over on the Hearth.com forum. Those guys know wood heat.

logan97 · Jan 1, 2012

Thanks for the replies. Yes unfortunately we have a Vermont Casting Catalytic combustor. We do burn seasoned wood.I have been cleaning the pipe 3 or 4 times a season which is unacceptable at my age. As far as a sacrificial piece of tin the piece is 23'11" long and is split in 2 pieces to go around the pipe and flashing.I think my best bet would be to get another non catalytic stove.

crash325 · Jan 1, 2012

Take the joints apart and clean real well. Apply "Dap FB-136 to both sides. Re-assemble pipe. Put a small bead of Dap around the joint then wrap with a strip of fiberglass cloth. Make sure the cloth is well soaked and smooth. That will last for a long time. You can also use "Muffler Bandage", its a shinny aluminum tape with a high temp glue on it. I have done both, inside and outside. Works for me.:thumbsup:

Scooby074 · Jan 1, 2012

Logan, if your looking for a way to clean your chimney without having to crawl on the roof, have a look at the "Sooteater"

I can clean my whole flue, from the stove to the raincap in <45 mins. All from the comfort of the living room.

I usually clean my flue every 4-6 weeks.

SootEater

MadJack · Jan 2, 2012

Logan 97, Your combustor is [most likely] old/plugged! Catalytic stoves run a bypass instead of a damper, which should be fully closed once your stove reaches 400* which makes a QUALITY thermometer so important.

Vermont Castings are a great stove and very expensive, as you probably know.

Condar Wood Stove Accessories, Fireplace, Hearth Products USA-made is where I just purchased my new [STEEL] combustor and stove-top thermometer. $176 & $17.95 respectively.

Since I purchased these two items two weeks ago, and I'm running the stove like their website says to, I'm getting more heat with less wood and barely see smoke coming out my chimney.

A lot cheaper than a new stove!