CS2410 starting issues and voltage loss

[Shauno]

I'm having issues with my 2012 Cs2410. It's been intermittent for last 3 years but recently have got much worse, where it won't start now unless I jump the starter circuit straight to positive terminal.

I've replaced:
Starter switch (x2 now)
Starter
Relay for starter
Battery
Negative battery cable

Issue is I go to start the tractor and all I get is a click, one click at the starter. If I cycle the key over and over eventually it might start
... Or as I work to trouble shoot it eventually starts working, which makes it hard to trace!! .. If I check voltage in the starter circuit it's low, anywhere from 7 to 10 volts at any point from the switch to the starter selenoid. If I take a wire and connect the starter side of the fuse box directly to the positive terminal it will start every time no issues.

If I measure the voltage everywhere I can think of it appears fine, except within the starter circuit. The voltage at the ignition switch is only energizing the starter circuit at reduced voltage, despite seeing 12v coming into the switch with no voltage drop when starting. The glow plug circuit also shows reduced voltage when energized, same as ignition. I tried pulling fuse from glow plug circuit, still low voltage and doesn't start.

So essentially I am loosing voltage somewhere.

Looking at a wire diagram I'm thinking maybe a bad "bonnet ground"... But I don't know where that is. I'm also thinking maybe a faulty preheat controller as it's a component of the starter circuit.

I know it's not any of the safety switches as the starter clicks which means it's getting juice, just not enough when I measure it. Battery is new, so are relays, and ignition switch.

I'm getting to a bit of a loss. Tractor starts no issues whatsoever if I jump the circuit direct to positive terminal to simulate that 12v signal from ignition.... But using the key all I get is click and a reduced voltage in the system

Anyone have any suggestions? I'd like to use the key to start it, and stop having to hot wire it everytime!

 

[K5lwq]

Sounds like you have a bad battery cable or the terminals are not making good connection. I would use a good set of jumper cables to test.

Use the positive lead of the jumper cable and connect it to the positive battery post. Then connect the other positive end to the big wire on the starter that comes from the battery. If it starts normally now with the key then replace the positive cable from the battery to the starter.

If not, do the same thing with the negative post of the battery and go to the body of the starter. Try using key again and see if it works. If it does then replace the ground cable.

 

[RjCorazza]

Seems like a perfect candidate for adding a starter solenoid relay. I added a relay to my zero turn mowers and never had another problem. The relay basically provides 12 volts to the solenoid directly from the battery, rather then through all of the safety switches and trigger wire from the key switch.

 

[Coyote_CS2220]

First, I will assume all the battery connections, both +ve and -ve are clean and tight and there is no corrosion on any of the connections from battery to starter motor and all the insulation covering the wires is intact (no rub/vibration wear anywhere).

That said.....I read that you replaced the battery. Are you sure the replacement battery works in another vehicle?

Over my lifetime (with numerous vehicles) I have had a number of starting issues that were ultimately caused by a bad battery. The first lesson I learned is voltage is important, but not everything. A battery can put out 12V, but not enough AMPERAGE to turn over the starter.....and it just goes 'click'.

All it takes is one cell within the battery to be failing to reduce the amperage to cause the problem. The battery will still put out 12V, but insufficient cranking power/amperage for the starter motor.

Another strange problem I eventually discovered with a battery is a cracked terminal. Not sure how it happened, but a had a battery that had a hairline crack thru the terminal. I had to look real close to see it, but it was sufficient to interrupt the the flow of electricity.

If you absolutely want to rule out a battery problem, take the battery out of one of your vehicles that you know works and hook it up the tractor and try turning it over - don't jump start it - replace the battery with a known good battery.

It is the only fool proof way to rule out the battery being the problem.

Once you have ruled out a bad battery and replace all the components before the starter motor, then as said above, test the starter motor with a direct connection to a good battery to see if it will turn over.......if not then pull the starter and take it into a rewind shop.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Seems like a perfect candidate for adding a starter solenoid relay. I added a relay to my zero turn mowers and never had another problem. The relay basically provides 12 volts to the solenoid directly from the battery, rather then through all of the safety switches and trigger wire from the key switch.

Now there's the right answer. If the starter works "first time every time" when power is supplied to the start terminal on the starter, then battery, cables, or related connections are not involved. Problem is low voltage (as verified by OP in this case) to that start terminal. Usually caused by one or more of the many wires, connections, and components involved in getting the start signal from the key switch down to said terminal.

The additional relay is a good solution, and often the least expensive. Finding and correcting the voltage drop can be a pain. Something like this can be purchased from numerous suppliers, (including Deere) or put together at home from off the shelf parts. I've done it many times. Most of these relays will operate on 8 or 9 volts, and when properly installed will do just what your jumper wire does. Apply 12 volts to the start terminal. Problem solved.

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[Eagle1]

Some times every safety switch and wiring checks out good but the sum of parts and wiring cause a voltage drop with age. A dedicate start relay cures that issue. All my Z turns have that solution rather than changing one thing or another every few months.
With the number of connection points the total voltage drop adds up to failure, yet nothing is really "bad"

 

[Shauno]

Just an update, got to playing around with this, and actually put some time into troubleshooting. Appreciate the ideas here.

I don't believe it's a battery, or battery cable issue as there is no voltage drop outside of the key start circuit and glow plugs. I managed to Replicate my issue, then make it go away by unplugging the glow plug relay. Tractor would turn over every time with the relay off. Plug relay back in and issue would come back. If I waited for the glow plug relay to click off, it would start (I don't have alot of patience to wait and tractor is kept inside garage). I cleaned all the terminals for the glow plugs and everything seems to be ok....except the glow plug light now illuminates after the tractor has started for a good minute or two.

All this time I was chasing the starter circuit, but it was an issue with glow plug circuit. Will monitor and see what happens now that I cleaned the connections.

Could this be a sign of a faulty glow plug?