Got my tractor a week ago tomorrow and have had a few teething problems but for the most part I think it should be a good little rig.
This morning I fired it up and saw that the tach wasn't working. I checked the instrument cluster fuse and it looked ok but just for a quick check I robbed a five amp fuse from farther up the fuse block to substitute. As soon as I unplugged the fuse the engine quit. I consulted the diagram and found an icon of a little computer, so I'm guessing that the fuse was associated with the control module? No owner's manual came with the tractor and I have a full service manual on order, just another of the minor annoyances with the deal.
After replacing both good fuses the tractor would crank but not start. Further investigation led to a fuse that was blown out (icon = a fuel pump with a line through it: cutoff solenoid?). A trip to the auto parts store and a hand full of 25 amp fuses later I'm back at the site, plug one in and it pops immdiately when I turn the switch to the on position. I find the fuel cutoff solenoid, unplug it, put in another fuse which holds fine when I turn on the ignition and continues to hold when I plug the cutoff solenoid back in. Bingo I'm in business....not. No start. I turn the key to off to scratch my head and when I turn it on again the fuse blows. I'm starting to feel like Jimmy Stewart in Flight of the Phoenix running out of start cartridges.
Long story longer. I broke out my test light and determined the following: The cutoff solenoid apparently has two coils. One is energized any time the key is on but the other is only energized for maybe 3 or four seconds after the key is turned to the on position. You can actually hear a little relay click as it turns off. That is why I could plug it in without blowing the fuse and pop it when I turn the key on. I have a dead short in the windings of the momentary on coil.
So I know exactly what it is. My questions are:
1. Why that is? What in the above sequence could result in this?
2. Has anyone removed one of these (I'm still waiting on the service manual) I'd like to take it to the dealer (far away) tomorrow and toss it on the counter to be replaced under warrenty but don't want to start ripping things off the injector pump unless I know what to expect.
I'll give them a call first thing in the morning but I think there are some pretty knowledgeable folks here and would like to get their take.
Apologies in advance for my first post here being a freaken wall o' text.
This morning I fired it up and saw that the tach wasn't working. I checked the instrument cluster fuse and it looked ok but just for a quick check I robbed a five amp fuse from farther up the fuse block to substitute. As soon as I unplugged the fuse the engine quit. I consulted the diagram and found an icon of a little computer, so I'm guessing that the fuse was associated with the control module? No owner's manual came with the tractor and I have a full service manual on order, just another of the minor annoyances with the deal.
After replacing both good fuses the tractor would crank but not start. Further investigation led to a fuse that was blown out (icon = a fuel pump with a line through it: cutoff solenoid?). A trip to the auto parts store and a hand full of 25 amp fuses later I'm back at the site, plug one in and it pops immdiately when I turn the switch to the on position. I find the fuel cutoff solenoid, unplug it, put in another fuse which holds fine when I turn on the ignition and continues to hold when I plug the cutoff solenoid back in. Bingo I'm in business....not. No start. I turn the key to off to scratch my head and when I turn it on again the fuse blows. I'm starting to feel like Jimmy Stewart in Flight of the Phoenix running out of start cartridges.
Long story longer. I broke out my test light and determined the following: The cutoff solenoid apparently has two coils. One is energized any time the key is on but the other is only energized for maybe 3 or four seconds after the key is turned to the on position. You can actually hear a little relay click as it turns off. That is why I could plug it in without blowing the fuse and pop it when I turn the key on. I have a dead short in the windings of the momentary on coil.
So I know exactly what it is. My questions are:
1. Why that is? What in the above sequence could result in this?
2. Has anyone removed one of these (I'm still waiting on the service manual) I'd like to take it to the dealer (far away) tomorrow and toss it on the counter to be replaced under warrenty but don't want to start ripping things off the injector pump unless I know what to expect.
I'll give them a call first thing in the morning but I think there are some pretty knowledgeable folks here and would like to get their take.
Apologies in advance for my first post here being a freaken wall o' text.