Cub 1450 No Crank/No Start

[Towelie318]

I got my hands on a 1979 model year Cub Cadet 1450 that ran okay when I bought it a few weeks ago. Went to go start it a few days ago and I get 3-4 cranks, followed by nothing at all. I've checked the neutral safety switch, the starter switch, replaced the starter solenoid, checked ground straps, and ensured the battery is charged. My belief is the starter died (though I find it odd that it just suddenly died as opposed to dying slowly). My question is, my Cub Cadet dealer literally wants my kidney as payment for a new starter. They are charging $400. That's twice as much as I paid for the tractor and far more than any car starter I've ever bought. I think I found one ebay that is a match, but it appears to have a different shaft than mine. Mine has a spring loaded gear on a threaded (like a worm gear) shaft. The one on eBay looks like it has a black plastic end. Is this just a shipping cover? EBay item number is 271463654299 if you'd like to have a look for yourself.

 

[JRobyn]

I can't really say for your (evidently) 10HP Kohler. Mine has the larger Kohler twin, but my replacement starter also came with the black plastic cap over the shaft. There's a circlip under it. The cap on my new one lasted a few starts before it flew off. If they advertise it to fit your specific engine and then it doesn't fit, send it back!

 

[Towelie318]

I can't really say for your (evidently) 10HP Kohler. Mine has the larger Kohler twin, but my replacement starter also came with the black plastic cap over the shaft. There's a circlip under it. The cap on my new one lasted a few starts before it flew off. If they advertise it to fit your specific engine and then it doesn't fit, send it back!

It's a 14 horse (k321 I believe). So that black plastic looking thing is just that, a plastic cover? You are intended to put the spring, gear, and nut back on from your old one? Just want to be sure before I purchase.

Thanks!

 

[tomplum]

This is one time that you want to be sure. Strangely enough, aftermarket starters for these don't always have the correct pinion gear. A tooth + or - doesn't work out well with the flywheel . The cover is meant to protect the shaft from moisture or debris. It isn't anything to sweat either way. If you are unsure if your starter has gone awol, jump directly to the starter with a set of jumper cables with a known good battery. + to the terminal and touch the negative to the housing. It will spark- so no fuel leaks allowed!

 

[Towelie318]

This is one time that you want to be sure. Strangely enough, aftermarket starters for these don't always have the correct pinion gear. A tooth + or - doesn't work out well with the flywheel . The cover is meant to protect the shaft from moisture or debris. It isn't anything to sweat either way. If you are unsure if your starter has gone awol, jump directly to the starter with a set of jumper cables with a known good battery. + to the terminal and touch the negative to the housing. It will spark- so no fuel leaks allowed!

That's why I wish I had access to another starter and battery to compare what I have. I hotwired my starter (off the tractor). It ran, but it seemed sluggish compared to what I expected it to be. Nobody in my area seems to know anything about testing the motor either, aside from it running when power is applied to it.

 

[Towelie318]

Update: Ended up being the positive battery lead connection. Evidently, there was enough corrosion between the cable and the connector to cause my no start. One of those cases where the problem is so obvious that you end up missing it

 

[JRobyn]

Glad it's resolved. I have taken to using this stuff -

Amazon.com: NOCO NCP2 CB14S 4 Oz Brush-On Oil Based Battery Corrosion Preventative: Automotive

on EVERY battery connection I touch. It's red and sticky and gooey and "flows" into every little crevice to seal the connections against corrosion. I brush it liberally around every exposed metal surface, particularly on the actual cable conductor. It's actually not as messy as it sounds - after a week or two it seems to harden. You can easily wipe off excess with a paper towel or shop rag.