Cub Cadet RZT50 Kawasaki Won't Start

[opalko]

Ok, after checking:
1) ground cable connection clean
2) 12V through fuse to bat term on switch
3) switch "on" 12 v at run terminal
additional info (reading around more posts)..
4) jumping 2 big connection on solenoid, engine cranks
5) jumper wire from batt + to org/blk wire terminal on solenoid, engine cranks

 

[opalko]

Now what?

 

[kevinwak]

Ok, after checking:
1) ground cable connection clean
2) 12V through fuse to bat term on switch
3) switch "on" 12 v at run terminal
additional info (reading around more posts)..
4) jumping 2 big connection on solenoid, engine cranks
5) jumper wire from batt + to org/blk wire terminal on solenoid, engine cranks

Sounds like one of the safety switches is holding out starting. Either a faulty switch, loose wire or something simple like a control lever not making contact.

 

[opalko]

Any idea how to get to the relays for the safety switches on this particular mower?

 

[OldMachinist]

The start circuit doesn't run thru the relays it just goes thru the switches.
Start circuit from key switch goes thru both neutral switches then the PTO switch and then the parking brake switch ending at the starter solenoid.

 

[opalko]

Thank you. I'm not sure what to be checking now though. Continuity at the neutral switches, voltage at the n. switches? Both? I tested the neutral switches disconnected from the wires and they work open/closed continuity reversed on the pairs, but different results when connected to the wires. By the way my brake switch has 6 wires to it not 4 like shown in the wiring diagram above. Mine has 2 orange, 2 yellow, green and another one i can't make out the color.

 

[OldMachinist]

The start circuit uses orange, orange/white and orange/black wires. With the key switch turned to start there should be 12+ thru all the orange wires. I would start with making sure that when you turn to start there is 12+ coming out of the switch on the orange white wire. Then check the orange/black and orange/white wires on the PTO switch with the key turned to start for 12+, if it's there then the neutral switched are good.
Does your brake switch have 6 terminals or 6 wires on 4 terminals?

 

[opalko]

Thanks again. I tracked the culprit down to a bad PTO switch. I replaced the switch with a new one from NAPA yesterday (exact replacement). Today I cut for exactly one hour and the PTO cut off by itself, engine still running. I took the new PTO switch out and tested it with ohmmeter. Again - bad. What is making these PTO switches burn out??

 

[opalko]

This is the correct wiring diagram for my CC. As you can see on the PTO switch, connections 1 and 4, 4 goes back to the PTO clutch after the two reverse safety switches. Well I have bypassed the safety switches and the connector 4 goes directly to the clutch. Does this mean my PTO clutch is bad? Is there a way to test it?

 

[rcbe]

the steady current draw on a normal engaged PTO clutch is around 4 amps @ 12vdc. But - if my dim memory is any good - seems I recall some earlier similar discussions where a another culprit was involved.... namely some sort of a shunt circuit to tame the sharp spike of current draw that is typical with initially energized coils such as contained in a typical PTO clutch - very hard on switches.
I don't know whether that "circuit" would be part of your harness or part of the clutch and the schematic you have certainly doesn't speak to it.
Perhaps one of the posters here more experienced in electrical stuff can chime in on this shot in the dark...