This post prolly doesn't belong here, but I'm not sure where else to put it... I've got a friend w/ a driveway that has a galvanized corregated steel tube culvert crossing under it for drainage. The tube is approx. 14" wide x 18' long. Recently it developed a hole in it and is causing a sinkhole in the driveway. Any tips/tricks to installing a new culvert? Any ideas about laying stone or dirt, above, below, or around it? Thanks for any/all help.
Culvert installation
- Thread starter coolbrze
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I've got a friend.....)</font>
Funny that it's always the friend /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Anyway, here is how I do it.
Do you have a BH and/or FEL on your 3010?
Is the plan/intention to replace the pipe or is that area fixable and the rest of the pipe is good?
If you're going to replace:
I would skim off as much stone or whatever is on top of the pipe so when you pull it, it doesn't fall into the hole making a bit more (and deeper digging).
Grab one end of the existing pipe and gently lift it out. If there's no intention of salvaging any of it you don't have to work very gingerly but the pipe may start bending, especially where it collapsed.
Clean out the ditch so the pipe will lay flat.
Now this may be like a gear vs. HST issue but I would probably install 15" double wall PVC pipe (as opposed to steel).
After you put it in, you'll want to backfill in such a fashion as to pack as much dirt around the pipe as possible. The uphill (water feed side) will be the most important. You don't want water to flow under your pipe as it will cause erosion. Personally, I put a bag of bentonite at the feed side. I pour some under the end of the pipe and then again on both sides.
Try to pack as you go.
Funny that it's always the friend /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Anyway, here is how I do it.
Do you have a BH and/or FEL on your 3010?
Is the plan/intention to replace the pipe or is that area fixable and the rest of the pipe is good?
If you're going to replace:
I would skim off as much stone or whatever is on top of the pipe so when you pull it, it doesn't fall into the hole making a bit more (and deeper digging).
Grab one end of the existing pipe and gently lift it out. If there's no intention of salvaging any of it you don't have to work very gingerly but the pipe may start bending, especially where it collapsed.
Clean out the ditch so the pipe will lay flat.
Now this may be like a gear vs. HST issue but I would probably install 15" double wall PVC pipe (as opposed to steel).
After you put it in, you'll want to backfill in such a fashion as to pack as much dirt around the pipe as possible. The uphill (water feed side) will be the most important. You don't want water to flow under your pipe as it will cause erosion. Personally, I put a bag of bentonite at the feed side. I pour some under the end of the pipe and then again on both sides.
Try to pack as you go.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
The best solution would be to dig it up and put in a plastic one. Once you dig it up, sticking a new one in the ground is basic enough.
How bad is the hole in the pipe? Why not dig up the bad spot, cover it with something. Depending on the side of the hole, you can use just about anything. I've seen plastic cups used, a frisby, inner tubes and a sheet of metal siding.
It doesn't have to hold up to any water preasue, just keep the dirt, rock and whatever else is used for the driveway out. A decent patch will last as long as the rest of the pipe.
How bad is the hole in the pipe? Why not dig up the bad spot, cover it with something. Depending on the side of the hole, you can use just about anything. I've seen plastic cups used, a frisby, inner tubes and a sheet of metal siding.
It doesn't have to hold up to any water preasue, just keep the dirt, rock and whatever else is used for the driveway out. A decent patch will last as long as the rest of the pipe.
Darren
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Plastic cilvert has an advantage of not rusting through like the corrugated metal culvert. The one disadvantage is it's not as stiff as a joint of the metal pipe. If you're not careful you can end up with a sag in the middle that provides a small underground puddle to breed mosquitoes.
Make sure the bedding is well compacted and with either culvert don't allow stones in the bedding or backfill. You can also get metal culvert that's asphalt coated for longer life.
Make sure the bedding is well compacted and with either culvert don't allow stones in the bedding or backfill. You can also get metal culvert that's asphalt coated for longer life.
I think patching the hole is prolonging more problems. The culvert has been there for at least 13 years, maybe much longer. I'm using a mini-ex or a 'hoe to do the work. I'm scrapping the existing corrogated pipe and replacing w/ something, not sure of plastic or another galvanized corrogated pipe. Still doing research.
What is double wall PVC?
Thanks for the help so far.
What is double wall PVC?
Thanks for the help so far.
AMR
Gold Member
I do not know the situation entirely but can add that using plastic pipe like "ADS" advanced drainage systems piping frequently requires fairly precise backfill and has cover requirements that actually adds support to the pipe (both material gradation and depth). Because you do have a machine and the pipe is of fairly small diameter and short I would suggest using RCP, reinforced concrete pipe, this will be harder to handle and set for sure but gives you a little more tolerance long term if things move or settle a little, the pipe will not fail and cover is generally not an issue with this pipe, particularly in a driveway. I do not know the flow characteristics but they also sell precast inlet and outlet structures that you can set to help prevent undermining on both ends.
