Custom Light bar for my Kubota L4400

[davygp38]

I have been searching this site for some time now, getting Ideas for a light bar for my tractor. I decided to make my own, using some steel from a Harbor freight Bed extender. The bed extender was a complete piece of junk, but not a waste of money. I got two 4 foot pieces of 2 inch square stock,out of it, and the pins, and bolts. it's worth more as raw steel, than it is as a bed extender. The L4400 has a work light circuit under each fender, with bayonet style connectors. The wires are black (ground) yellow with red flecks-stripes (hot.) (see the picture) They are fused with a 10 amp fuse in the box. I bought two 55 watt halogen lights from Tractor supply, for $19 each. They seem like good lights, but the brackets aren't the best. Nothing some bigger bolts wont fix. I welded the ends of the square stock closed, and drilled the ends, and welded a mounting bolt, on each. My thinking, is to make the lights adjustable front and back. I also left the bar long. This way I can get a better angle on the hole, if I am digging. Or I can focus out front with out interference from the loader, or a large pallet. I put up some pictures of the light bar after welding. At this point, I wired the lights to a simple three pole switch, to make sure it was going to work. The light circuit on my tractor is on when the key is on. I could have just hard wired the lights,and it would have been OK, but the German in me wouldn't go for it. After testing the switch, I had to find a good place to mount it. I settled for the draft control box on the right. I put it here, because it was close to me while in the seat, and most important, it is more protected from the weather. ( I had thought about mounting it on the fender) Take a look at the pictures, and let me know what you think. I'll post more latter

 

[dex3361]

I have an L4400 and I am planning on doing putting work lights on the ROPs as well. the lights are the 55W HF halogen mounted in rubber. I will use a piece of unistrut and put the open part down and I will mount 4 lights
(2-front and 2-back). I will use u bolts to clamp to the ROPS, I don't want to drill the ROPS.

 

[davygp38]

I understand your concerns about drilling into the ROPS. I am doing it however, and heres why. My light bar is made of 1/8 inch square stock, and is end welded with 3/16th squares. The bar itself was already drilled with 1/2 inch holes, which is what I am using to attach to the ROPS. As far as I am concerned, The 1/2x5inch bolts. that go thru the rops,combined with the bar makes the rops stronger, not weaker. Since the bar was already drilled, and I would have had to plug those holes, and fabricate clamps, I went with what I had. Here are some pictures of the light bar after paint, and during the wiring process. I am using 14 gage wire, all connections are done with shrink tubing, and liquid tape. I am covering the exposed wires with some vinyl tubing they had at Lowe's for 15 cents a foot. the switch will be greased with dielectric compound, and all parts of the light bar that receive wires, or bolts are sealed with silicone

 

[dex3361]

Cant wait to see the finished product.

 

[davygp38]

Here is the finished light bar. I was as clean as possible on all the wiring. I used wire wraps, and silicone on all fittings, and connectors. The lights are fully adjustable front, and back. I left enough slack in the wiring to fold the ROPS, and point the lights in any direction. The only weak point, is the switch. I wanted a marine switch , but the only thing locally was the one I used, which is not marine grade. If it stops working, I will order one.

 

[polo1665]

Looks good, but I would keep it out of the woods.

Mark

 

[dex3361]

Nice looking job but I have to make mine to where it will be lower than the top of the ROPs and under the
ROPs. I would rip it off in the woods if I didn't. the spread will give good coverage nice job.

 

[davygp38]

Yeah it will be an issue for me, in the woods as well. If it gets to be to big a problem, I will start fron scratch

 

[davygp38]

After carefull consideration, I have decided to fabricate cages to protect the lights from tree branches etc. I just came back from tractor supply with some angel iron, and some 1/2 inch square tubing. I have some 3/16 rod somewhere. I'll post some pics when I gaet started

 

[dex3361]

Thats a great idea and one you will not regret.

 

[Usta]

I wanted to mount some worklights on my ROP and with all the posts about welding or drilling the ROP will void its certification, I designed a clamp on mount. The ROP on my BX2660 measures 1-1/2" x 3"

I searched a short time for a small 3 inch inside measurement shackle bolt but could not find a perfect match.

No problem, I'll just make one. Took some 3/8 steel rod, bent it in the shape I needed and threaded it. I then cut some 3/16 plate to 3 inches by 6 inches and drilled 3 holes. Two holes for the shackle bolt and one for the worklight mounting bolt. I made three of them thinking I would mount three worklights. I mounted one rear facing light hanging down from the top of the ROP for the snowblower.

 

[wftree]

Great idea, I do a lot of work in the woods and give those about 3 hours before it was ripped off and twisted to death.

I would mount the tight to the ROPS or inside the ROPS

wftree

 

[Scotty370]

Ditto to wftree! Before I bought my JD4200, the previous owner had moved the signal/hazard lights, inboard, instead of outboad, on the ROPS. I can see the advantage! ~Scotty

 

[davygp38]

I spent yesterday fabing up a set of heavy duty cages to protect my new light bar from tree limbs etc. It took most of the day. They are made of 1/2x1/8th inch thick square stock, the rounds are 3/8 solid. I made the mounting hardware super strong,(see pic,) and super simple, it should work great. the best part is the lights are still fully adjustable front ,and back, and by being located so close to the lights it offers protection even when backing up. I prefit everything, and it looks good. I will sandblast, and paint today, should have them mounted on Monday. Here are some pics.

 

[davygp38]

Here is the finished light bar, with protective cages. I don't think I will have any problems with tree branches.

 

[kruss77]

Looks great! One thing to consider is that with the lamps mounted 'sideways' like that -the light in front of you will be vertically-tall and horizontally-narrow, making your field of view in front of the tractor very narrow as well. Lights like this are designed to comply with a very specific 'industry' optical pattern which is horizontally-wide and vertically-short (ie: 'fog' or 'driving' lamp pattern) when the lamp is mounted as the manufacturer specifies. To achieve a wide field of view the lamps would have to be mounted with the longer side parallel to the ground. If you were hoping to achieve more of a flood lamp type pattern, you would need something more like a traditional "work" lamp. Here are some really good HELLA work lights. These are the ones I use on my tractor.

 

[lakngulf]

I wanted to mount some worklights on my ROP and with all the posts about welding or drilling the ROP will void its certification, I designed a clamp on mount. The ROP on my BX2660 measures 1-1/2" x 3"

I searched a short time for a small 3 inch inside measurement shackle bolt but could not find a perfect match.

No problem, I'll just make one. Took some 3/8 steel rod, bent it in the shape I needed and threaded it. I then cut some 3/16 plate to 3 inches by 6 inches and drilled 3 holes. Two holes for the shackle bolt and one for the worklight mounting bolt. I made three of them thinking I would mount three worklights. I mounted one rear facing light hanging down from the top of the ROP for the snowblower.

I have you don't run into any repurcussions using the table cloth as the backdrop for your pictures

 

[Usta]

I have you don't run into any repurcussions using the table cloth as the backdrop for your pictures

Thanks a lot!! Everything was fine till the wife saw your post. Im in the doghouse tonight.

 

[davygp38]

Looks great! One thing to consider is that with the lamps mounted 'sideways' like that -the light in front of you will be vertically-tall and horizontally-narrow, making your field of view in front of the tractor very narrow as well. Lights like this are designed to comply with a very specific 'industry' optical pattern which is horizontally-wide and vertically-short (ie: 'fog' or 'driving' lamp pattern) when the lamp is mounted as the manufacturer specifies. To achieve a wide field of view the lamps would have to be mounted with the longer side parallel to the ground. If you were hoping to achieve more of a flood lamp type pattern, you would need something more like a traditional "work" lamp. Here are some really good HELLA work lights. These are the ones I use on my tractor.

Not a problem. The light pattern is fine. It is working great for what I need it for. I would also point out, that I still have the headlights, for straight ahead transport, and mowing. What I was going for with this set up was more light, for bucket work, and unlimited adjustment of each light individually. I can turn each light around independently, for use as a work light , or while I am using the Backhoe. I just bought a set of strobe lights for the light bar, and I am going to add them in a few days. I will use the same work light circuit, with a separate switch. I will also use a 15 amp fuse