Custom Mount for Backhoe Subframe. Your thoughts?

[caleb7777]

I recently got myself a 3pt backhoe for my tractor. I got it at a great price in an auction. It already had a subframe mounted to it which I then needed to modify to fit my tractor. The backhoe was a Case IH BH109 and I mounted it onto my Kioti DS4510HS. It took very little modification as it fit fairly well and close to my existing loader subframe. Aside from a front mount bolted onto loader subframe on each side of tractor, I did not have to change anything on my tractor. I was quite happy with my design and wanted to share it here and also get your opinions if I this will be sufficient or if I should beef it up more. I read over dfkrug's excellent thread about different styles and found it helpful. Hopefully he can look at this too and give me his opinion. I just want to get your opinions as to whether this will be strong enough for the various forces or if I should change it yet.

The installation is also very simple as I only have to back over the subframe, raise the subframe with hydraulics if it is right on the ground, back up until the two pockets at front bottom out, then use the backhoe boom to raise the rear end and let an aligning pin lock into the 1" hole on the drawbar, and then install the top link. Removal is the reverse.

I thought the drawbar pin was clever as it keeps things right where I want them and puts many of the horizontal forces into the drawbar.

I have not had any previous experience with tractor backhoes but have wanted one for some projects around my house so am happy to have got one. I want to make sure I build it strong enough to last. I tend to be hard on my toys.

First picture shows backhoe as I got it. Only mods I did were weld 2 pieces of pipe to front edge, 2 pieces of 2" square to sides to act as vertical stops, and an aligning pin that fits into drawbar on tractor.

I had intended to not use the top link mount at first and had planned to weld two mounting ears on back of tractor, one on each side above axle where ROPS goes up. But I did not as I did not like that there would be no angle down to the implement (almost horizontal link would not hold UP the attachment) and because it would have been quite tight without removing the 3pt arms. It was doable but not simple. I decided to just use the top link for now (which still has a very shallow angle on it) and then see what you all have to say.

If I unbolt the front mounting brackets, the tractor is completely unmodified still and I can get normal ground clearance.

I tried to mount it as close and high to tractor as I could. I even had to cut the corners off the original steps to clear my tires.

 

[caleb7777]

Here is a video that shows how it very simply goes on and off and how alignment pin in drawbar worked. This is the second time I removed and attached it so I was still being cautious. I hadn't even fully welded up the brackets. Forgive the rough video.

Removing:
1- Use hydraulics to take weight off top link.
2- Remove top link
3- Lower rear end (until pin is out of drawbar)
4- Turn off / unhook hydraulics
5- Drive away

Installing:
1- Drive over ladder, stop 4-6" before back
2- Hook up and turn on hydraulics
3- Raise front of ladder if necessary so that you can back into hooks
4- Back up until ladder front goes into hooks
5- Use backhoe boom to raise and shift rear of backhoe until pin goes into drawbar.
6- Attach top link

 

[dfkrug]

I tried to mount it as close and high to tractor as I could. I even had to cut the corners off the original steps to
clear my tires.

Looks good, Caleb. On my Kioti CK30 subframe, I wish I had trimmed my steps away even more.

When you are ready for a test-dig, take a video of the hoe-to-tractor connection in back and
look to see what kind of flex you get.

 

[Everhard]

Nice. Love the simplicity. My only question (and keep in mind I'm not an expert here!) is how well that toplink will handle the forces put on it? I kinda feel your setup is stronger then a 3pth setup but not as strong as a typical subframe setup? Only because the rear doesn't have a solid frame connection. (Again just my honest not necessarily educated opinion!)

Couple thoughts that could add to the strength of the rear connection:
1: Given that horizontal bar and pin that goes up thru the tractor hitch - how about welding up a part that will wrap over the top of the tractor hitch that the pin goes thru and also connects down to the horizontal bar on the subframe? That way the hitch now takes weight and forces as well and not just the toplink.
2: I'm not sure exactly how Kioti connects their backhoe on the larger tractors like yours vs the smaller CK models (that's what I got) but if it's the same basically they replace the rear hitch component with one that uses the same bolt points plus a couple higher up on the lower top link connection bolt points and then below the hitch is a slot for the subframe to slide into. To order this one part in my case was very expensive but when I realised they basically just added to what was originally there I did exactly that myself. I took off the stock hitch part and welded onto it so I had the extra bolt points and I made the slot for the bar on the subframe to slide into. The only thing I did a bit different from the stock version is I extended a couple tabs so that I can raise the backhoe so the bar on the subframe contacts those tabs at which point I know it's at the right height, then I back up the tractor the last couple inches so that the subframe is fully bedded into the mounts, drop a couple pins to keep it from coming out and it's done. The biggest cost for me was my time to make the part! The steel cost very little but I don't have a fancy machine shop so it took me much longer than some one with all the right tools.

Here's a picture of what I did (This was test fitting stage not quite complete but the general concept is there.):



Anyway, like I said I'm no expert at all, what you've done is quite possibly more than strong enough and I can be over thinking this, just giving you some ideas should you feel you do need to add to what you've done. The great thing is you've got it hooked up and can start using it and should you feel you need to make changes you can but at least it's operational now.

E.

 

[fpfdchief]

I had a woods kioti ds50 and a new holland tc45 it dug fine but there was an awfull lot of play everywhere. It even bent the ears for the top link of the tc45 so beware. I now have a 611 bradco which I just finish making a mount for on my t4.75. because bradco did not have one for it.