Cutting techniques...

[tungularafishcamp]

I just took some old metal siding scraps I got and made 2 sides and a top on a pallets and stack the wood there as soon as I split it, keep the exposed ends open to the prevailing winds and it dries pretty well even with all our rain. I just pick the pallet up and put it by the door when it is time to fill the wood box so only handle it 2x or 3 I guess cause when I put it in the stove.

Rick

PS Massey I am of Norweigan ancestry that's why I always tell the norweigan version of ethnic jokes

 

[om21braz]

One more tip - don't forget the PPE (personal protection equipment; helmet, chaps, etc.).

 

[turnkey4099]

I guess there are a few things that can determine HOW you interpret this:

First, I am used to ALWAYS running full chisel. Semi-chisel (semi-round) and chipper (round) chain can tolerate a little dirt.

Second, is how you interpret what "sharp" and "dull" means.

To me, a sharp chain will pull its own self through the wood with NO added pressure from the operator or dawging in and pulling up on the rear handle. And to ME, a dull chain will NO longer pull itself along.

BUT, what I just described as a "dull" chain WILL still cut wood of you put pressure on or dawg in. But that is bad practice as both the chain and bar will NOT last as long. The chain/bar get hotter than normal, which has less than desired results on life expectance.

On the other hand, some people believe that a chain is only dull when it absolutly will no longer cut no matter how much you try to force it. I am NOT one of those people and that is bad practice.

But I can tell you from experience, that once a chisel chain touches dirt, even for a fraction of a second, it will no longer pull itself through the wood.

You did have great advise about slowing down though before you exit the cut. A very slow chain speed when/if hitting dirt wont hurt it, but at WOT, you're done.

And again, this is with chisel. I dont use anything but, so I can only comment as to what I have heard/read. I dont know what the OP is using either, but given the two saws, MS250 and MS290, I am betting it probabally isnt chisel. But it is still good practice to treat dirt like it were steel. And chainsaws DONT cut through steel

I also use chisel (round filed though) and can (and did this summer) have to go to the dirt a couple times and my chains still pulled themselves. My criteria for changing out a chain (I carry a minimum of 3 for each of my 4 saws) is to do it as soon as I ahve to apply pressure.
Note my descritption of how to 'cut dirt'; though. Yes if you run the chain full speed and go more than just a touch or two into the dirt it ain't gonna cut really well.

Anyone who has cut any amount of sizable wood, unless they have a tractor or other means of moving big logs, and says they have never cut dirt are forgetting all the times they had to.
It is jusst something you live with and realize that one will be resharpening or replaceing a chain sooner than planned.

Harry K

Harry K

 

[arrow]

Grant, there are a couple of ways to lessen pinch. Many times the tree will have enough crown to hold itself up after it hits the ground. At this time put 3 or 4" thick branches cut from the crown about every 8 to 10 feet under the stem and in pairs. You'll make your cuts between the pairs. These branches should be 4 to 5' long. The tree usually comes to rest on these after the crown is cut. At the very least you'll need a couple of peaveys. These can easily roll 8 to 10' sections. These sections can now be manipulated and turned so your initial bucking cuts are seldom more than halfway through the log. As someone mentioned, use your wedges (you'll need several) hammered into the cut before you are half way through. Logging is tool intensive to start with. I am not sure of what you consider large trees but even a 24" stem that is 8 to 10' long can be rolled with a peavey and definitely with 2 guys rolling. In logging operations, trees are always skidded to a landing and stem after stem would be piled serving as a platform for supporting trees to be bucked. When we were moving really fast, we used the firewood sized crown cuts as supports that the skidder would drag the stems over. After a while, these would be so densely gathered that you could not step onto bare earth. Perhaps you could sort of do the same by putting the smaller crown cuts from the previous tree spread all over the ground and try to drop the next tree on these. Sort of a very low and messy saw horse but effective.